Avenger clutch mods

[Rory_mcw]

Hi, I'm from Scotland uk, I have just bought 2 avengers this weekend, an 04 with canopy, winch, cage alloy liner and bear claws and an 07 with liner, cage and canopy.

I have had a few before and my last machine was a conquest, I really love the clearance in the mud, I will be kitting 1 out with Adair tracks ASAP.

I don't run my machines on roads and only usually run at around 10mph max.

I would like more low down power by modding the clutches.

What is the best way to gain this! Stronger driven clutch? Lighter drive clutch weights?

I will have to order a couple new drive belts and some filters.

Any help would be great, thanks.

[AlbertaRider]

I was told you can change the spring tension on the secondary to increase the engagement rpm, hence more bottom end. A friend of mine turned the helix back (preloaded) one third and this seemed to help a lot. He runs tracks exclusively and has proven to have enough bottom end to manuover at slow speeds. You could also install a one size "stiffer" spring in the secondaary as well. Not sure which method would prove to have the most longevity.AR

[Rock Doctor]

I'm sure it's a typo AR, but for clairification, it's the Primary Clutch that "Engages". Increase the Spring tension in the Primary to increase the engagement RPM, or lighten the weights.
Tightening, or increasing the Pre-load on the Secondary will Slow down the Upshift (Keep you in a lower "gear" longer), and will also increase the rate of Downshift.

RD

[spookum]

I'm sure it's a typo AR, but for clairification, it's the Primary Clutch that "Engages". Increase the Spring tension in the Primary to increase the engagement RPM, or lighten the weights.
Tightening, or increasing the Pre-load on the Secondary will Slow down the Upshift (Keep you in a lower "gear" longer), and will also increase the rate of Downshift.

RD

Im going to tatoo that on my forhead so i dont forget it! The only draw back is that it will take longer for a full shift out, meaning if you run it wide open down the block, it wont get up to speed quite as fast as it used to... just my .02$

[jerseybigfoot]

Im going to tatoo that on my forhead so i dont forget it! The only draw back is that it will take longer for a full shift out, meaning if you run it wide open down the block, it wont get up to speed quite as fast as it used to... just my .02$

The rate of upshift also depends on the final drive gear ratio, load and engine torque/rpm curve. Generally increasing the tension on the driven side spring allows the engine to be closer to its peak torque/rpm.

[Rory_mcw]

Thanks, but are there any figured I can work to for lightening primary or stiffening secondary spring? Was out yesterday with 04 machine and she is struggling to turn sometimes with the bear claw tyres in the Heather/ thick grass.

Cheers

[AlbertaRider]

I'm sure it's a typo AR, but for clairification, it's the Primary Clutch that "Engages". Increase the Spring tension in the Primary to increase the engagement RPM, or lighten the weights.
Tightening, or increasing the Pre-load on the Secondary will Slow down the Upshift (Keep you in a lower "gear" longer), and will also increase the rate of Downshift.

RD

Good catch RD, I was so engrosed to mention the Secondary solution (the quickest according to my pal) that I worded it wrong. He tells me the downshift is pretty quick but manageable as he runs tracks all the time (slower speeds) so he doesnt mind. While kind of on the same topic, how high should the belt ride on the secondary? I have heard anywhere from level to 1/8" high? I know my sled runs best 1/8" high.