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How Can I convert a Salsbury Clutch w/tapered shaft to straight shaft?

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  • How Can I convert a Salsbury Clutch w/tapered shaft to straight shaft?

    Does anyone know of a way to convert a Salsbury drive pulley (700 series, 780 'Spider Drive') that came on a Rockwell 300cc two cycle (from Attex ST300/D) from the tapered shaft to a straight shaft for use with a different engine?? Is there enough material inside the stationary side of the pulley to drill out for a 'keyed' sleeve to be pressed in to then accept a 1" dia motor shaft??

    Any suggestions would be much appreciated. Thanks.

  • #2
    check cartpartsplus, I seem to remember them having an adaptor

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    • #3
      tapered clutch adapter

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      • #4
        thanks for the help. I'll follow up with them.

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        • #5
          thak you very much for the link. I'll follow up on this; it looks good.

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          • #6
            What engine are you going to?

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            • #7
              I want to use the clutch in another vehicle with a 420 cc 'Predator' 4-cycle engine. Which brings up another question: how much will the lower, 4-cycle engine rpm affect the operation of the Salsbury clutch? And, if it doesn't "engage" at the lower rpm, is it possible to change out the springs inside the clutch to get it to engage? Where does one find weaker springs that fit it?

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              • #8
                You would be better off purchasing a new clutch than try to re-tune the old unit.
                Acta non verba

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                • #9
                  Many people may not agree with me but what I did was use a 1" drill bit in my drill press,I drilled out the center where the taper was smaller than one inch.I then used my dremel tool with the barrel sanding bit,took my time and I had a good pair of digital calipers.I would put the drive clutch on the shaft of the engine,then remove it to see where I needed to remove thousandths of material.I then hand sanded the inner bore made my own tapered keyway,bought a 5' 3/8-24 fine thread bolt to attach the clutch to the shaft-Torqued the heck out of it and I have been fine.I did this to my amphicat.I used a brand new 11hp honda clone engine-the salsbury clutch came from a two stroke engine but I am happy with the speed and torque.Unistrut or super strut with spring lock nuts is a great way to mount an engine and also makes it very easy to align the clutches and get the proper belt tension.I had these old drive clutches and there was no way I was going to spend the money on a new clutch,I wish I could but I just dont have that kind of money.I figure nothing ventured then nothing gained.I am very happy with the amphicat and I really like having reverse!
                  Last edited by flippy; 07-20-2012, 07:38 PM. Reason: spelling

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                  • #10
                    My opinion Flippy is you won the lottery on that clutch getting it true. I'd sure like to stick a dial gauge on it. Congrads on getting it straight but I personally would never recommend that procedure to anyone.
                    Bill

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                    • #11
                      The wobble/vibration on something turning that many RPM's would shake the machine apart if it was off just a little.
                      If someone really wants to do that.....please have a machine shop do it.
                      The other problem is the 2 stroke clutch will advance slower, meant for the lower torque and higher rpm of that type motor (nearly twice the rpm's).
                      If the clone motor is modified like the gokart racers do (for 6-7000 rpm), it would probably work fine, but that can get expensive too.
                      Changing the springs on a clutch of that type is a mysterious science....and trial and error method is alot of work and pricey. Like JerseyBF said, it would be best to just buy the right thing.

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                      • #12
                        Not to be negative but in my job experiance when we had a large sheridan steel rule die cutting press that needed to run,it went down because the 5 belt sheave got loose on the motor shaft and the motor shaft got damaged .Well some die shim tape and epoxy on the shaft and 4 hour dry time and that press ran fine for 48 hours straight till the new motor could arrive.I forget the tonnage of the press but I do remember the flywheel being 4 foot in diameter .Its always correct to do the right thing however until mine blows apart I am not going to worry about it.Just like my 100hp electric shift evinrude outboard that on my 20 foot wellcraft and the boat forums said I cant do that because the motor is to old and the elictric shift is garbage I have been fine fore 5 years at all speeds.The worst that can happen is the cvt pulley loosens up and comes off the shaft-it will not blow apart.I always enjoyed how the engineers left there offices to come in the maintenance room to have the grease monkey maintenace men fix there designs and problems.I came from a family tht did not just buy something-we made it work.Ask any farmer.-Now I am waiting to hear why the sheave got loose on the original motor to begin with-well seeing as the company bought most of their machinery right after ww2 ended and you factor in age-operators who adjust the pressure so high that some times the press would lock up or simply fatigue.

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                        • #13
                          Its amazing what you can do with a dremel-or a large drill press or a machine or hand reamer!-Once again I dont want anyone to do this then blame me.The salsbury drive clutch was bought used in pieces and then assembled.I am working on a $100 amphicat-so fay I bought new chains-I already had the clone engine on the shelf-I used e6000 glue and patched the 5 flat ballon tires.So far so good.I have only gone on a few short rides and I did take it in an overgrown lot with tons of brush and garbage,mud ditches etc.That what I love about the old 6x6's small investment and big reward.I would not dream of doing this on a machine that I paid over $500 for.

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