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T 20 and clutch rebuild???????

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  • T 20 and clutch rebuild???????

    Well I took the t 20 out of my max ii today drained the oil and steam cleaned the case. Thinking about rebuilding it. I was wondering if there is a rebuild kit i could purchase that includes all I will need for the job. And also about how much it should cost. I also need to change the spring on the secondary clutch, the red spring is what multiple members have recommended. Where could I buy these things and how much should they be. I'm still new and I don't want to be taken advantage of, you can understand that. Also is it worth doing or would it be better to pay someone else? Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks be to the pro's who always seem to know best.

  • #2
    You can absoLUTEly do this yourself. For a first timer's tear down, there are a couple points in the teardown that are just a pain, but not really technically challenging. Recreatives has a gasket and seal kit that includes the thrust washers, plunger o-rings and all of the other "soft parts". I think the seal kit is in the neighborhood of $30-40, but you can piece it together yourself for far less since the seals, O-rings etc. are common items. (I'd have to dig around for part numbers; someone else will likely chime in...) The output shaft bearings are pretty special units, and (in so many words) are really only available from Recreatives unless you take a really hard line and mill down an over-the-counter unit. Transmission Crafters will reline bands for $35 bucks a piece, and new ones ($$$) are available from Recreatives as well. Recreatives also sells the red spring; going from memory, I think it runs around $30 or so. Unless you have evidence that your bushings are really beat, I don't see a need to replace them. If a visual inspection doesn't show any fragged output shafts, worn teeth on the planetary plate or scored drums, I think the worst of it is behind you. Make sure you double check that the ear on the thrust washer on each side of the center plate is still there. The ears seem to break once in a while, and that hard little washer gets spinning uber-fast. It chews up that soft center plate right-quick.

    I think doing the rebuild yourself is a great idea. We have several tutorials here that will expertly guide you through the teardown and rebuild, so dive in with confidence. I think there's a toss up in my mind about the best part about doing it yourself. Surviving the agility test when you duck for cover taking the C-clips off of the mainshaft, or using your wildest imagination conjuring up new obscenities as you try to take the snap rings off of the output shafts.

    Last edited by hydromike; 08-28-2012, 09:23 AM.
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    • #3
      Well thanks for the vote of confidence. Looks like I will be taking it apart this weekend. Any members around me want to come lend a hand are most definitely welcome. Free beer and barbecue. Any takers out there?

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      • #4
        So I took apart the driven clutch tonight, and I noticed the spring inside was yellow. I know the red is supposed to be for more low end power green is supposed to be top speed. Just what is the yellow spring for and am I supposed to be able to collaps the spring all the way by hand with ease?

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        • #5
          Originally posted by Iwantonetoo View Post
          So I took apart the driven clutch tonight, and I noticed the spring inside was yellow. I know the red is supposed to be for more low end power green is supposed to be top speed. Just what is the yellow spring for and am I supposed to be able to collaps the spring all the way by hand with ease?
          I believe the yellow spring was used for many 2 stroke applications. It sounds like that spring is pretty worn out. Call up Recreatives and they'll be able to send you a new one. Amphibious Six-Wheel Drive All-Terrain Vehicles: MaxATVs - Call 1-800-255-2511 Also, if I was closer I'd take you up on that beer and barbeque offer and we could have that T-20 rebuild in a couple hours. Let us know how it works out for you. Take a look at the "How To" articles on it here if you get stuck.

          How-to articles related to rebuilding and reconditioning your amphibious ATV transmission including articles on the Borg Warner Skid Steer transmission
          "Looks like you have a problem with your 4 wheeler........you're missin' two wheels there"
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          • #6
            Clutch issues

            So I was having issues with my max ii not having the power it should. Ordered and installed the red spring. Still no better. Belt tension is to spec ( new belt ) ... Just still not doing what it should. The spring on the secondary clutch was the yellow spring. I know that the yellow spring is for two stroke applications..how would I know if the clutch on the motor is also for two stroke engine. Please help if you can thanks
            Last edited by Mike; 09-07-2012, 05:55 PM. Reason: merged two threads on the same topic. Please just reply to your existing thread.

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            • #7
              2 stroke motors have a tappered shaft and 4 stroke have a strait shaft.I would replace the driven or secondary clutch,You can get a new one for around $160 on ebay.
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              • #8
                The yellow springs were put on early 4 strokes also...and after 20 + years, I'm sure yours is weak. My 1992ish maxII had the yellow and lacked good low end. I tried the red spring and didn't like it. Tried the green spring, and that was much better. I also went to a 1 1/4" wide belt. It starts out higher in the secondary giving a better ratio for low end without giving up top speed.

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                • #9
                  Well I do know it is a 1992 model. I have a new belt the1 1/4 recommended. I have changed the spring and still the machine will not climb a hill. Just don't know what else to try

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                  • #10
                    welliadded a video of the clutches in action. they seem to be working properly but maybe you can see something im missing. well here goes I hope i did it right... http://www.facebook.com/#!/photo.php...type=2&theater

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                    • #11
                      Also i was wondering if i may have something out of wack on the engine. the engine boggs down real bad when its in a bind, almost low as idle speed. is there someway to fix this.

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                      • #12
                        yippi!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I figured out that the govorner is the problem. boooooo!!!!!!!!!!!!! I just need help on fixing it now. I knowthat the governer adjustment is right now just cant figure out why now i give it throttle and it revs up and then quits i watch the linkage quit pushing and the governer arm goes back. Any one know how to fix this?

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                        • #13
                          If this is a Briggs Vanguard or Kohler Command, you'll need a different governor spring for an AATV application and you have to bend that metal tab that the governor spring attaches to a little bit and you should be good. Call up Recreatives and they'll tell you what to do and sell you the correct spring. Amphibious Six-Wheel Drive All-Terrain Vehicles: MaxATVs - Call 1-800-255-2511 Glad you have the problem pinpointed now.
                          "Looks like you have a problem with your 4 wheeler........you're missin' two wheels there"
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                          • #14
                            Today was a good day. i finally got the max running as it should. got that governer fixed and when i put it in gear and throttled it for the first time i nearly broke my neck. man does that thing go now. all that is left is to geta set of 24's and im all set. maybe some paint but man i am so happy with the performance of my max ii. thanks to all who helped to make this possible.

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