Hustler K440-2am wiring

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Thread: Hustler K440-2am wiring

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
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    New Mexico
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    Hustler K440-2am wiring

    I just got myself a 6x6, and all the wires that come out of the engine have been cut. The engine is a Kohler K440-2am. I was wondering if anyone has a wiring diagram, or a place to find a diagram. Maybe some one could tell me how to wire it? I have all the lights, fuel pump, all other accessories wired; I just don’t know how to do the engine. Any help would be appreciated. I also posted this article in the engine section.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
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    Hey Kevin,

    Not a big deal. I'm not sure about the specific wiring on the Kohler 440, but you likely have only 5 wires coming off the engine if you have breaker points and twin ignition coils. (Two yellow, two black and a brown one(?)... am I close?)

    I'm not sure if your Kohler has a CDI or breaker points, but it's pretty much the same. There's a charging circuit, an ignition circuit, a lighting circuit...and that's pretty much it for the big stuff.

    Here is a wiring diagram for a JLO twin with the twin ignition coils and breaker style ignition, electric start, and headlights in an Attex. Your Hustler shouldn't differ too much, and at least this will get you going in the right direction. Of course, ignore the wire colors on this diagram.



    It's a little fuzzy, but should work for you.
    Good luck!

    ~mike

  3. #3
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    Mike-

    Thanks for the diagram. I checked and found that there were a total of 7 wires coming out of the engine. The colors are as follows. 1 yellow with a green and black stripe. 2 black, 1 brown, 1 green with a black stripe, 1 yellow, 1 dark green. There is also a silver box attached to the back of the body with three places to attach wires to. The only marking on it are as follows.

    Repco 0182

    Then above these three prongs where wires are suppose to attach are the letters AC BT AC in that order. I think that the box that I just described has something to do with the charging, but i am unsure. I could also attach some pics if that would help.

    Thanks,



    -Kevin

  4. #4
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    OH NO! Not the silver box!

    This might be a CDI ignition, but pics would help out a lot. That doesn't really change much as far as wiring up the engine goes.

    The engine will likely run with all the wires cut, and one of the wires will need to be grounded to shut it off (unlike it's completely bizarre like the newer Cuyuna engines, which need to be grounded to run, and the ground broken to shut off).

    Unless you can find a specific Hustler 440 wiring diagram, I would begin by getting the engine running and testing the output of each wire. At idle, there should probably be between 10 and 12 volts coming out of the charging system, and it should go up to about 14 or so as RPM increases. On a lot of two strokes I've fussed around with, the two yellow or yellow/green/black stripe are the output from the lighting/charging coils, so you might begin there. I don't know how much more help I can be, and any info. I give you from here on out is pure speculation...

    Richard Clark at Route6x6.com might have a wiring diagram, or there are several Hustler owners here on the board who may help(?)...
    ~M

  5. #5
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    What is a CDI ingnition?

  6. #6
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    A pic of the silver box

    Here is a picture of the silver box.
    Attached Images

  7. #7
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    CDI= Capacitor Discharge Ignition...

    Essentially, it's a breakerless ignition that creates a much higher voltage spark than breaker points. The argument has been made that they're more reliable than breaker points since its a bit more difficult to foul plugs in two stroke engines. The argument has also been made that it's much simpler to replace a $2.00 spark plug (dozens and dozens of times) than it is to replace a magical $140 black CDI box that goes bad for no apparent reason than it "just being a Monday..."

    That silver box is (more than likely) your voltage regulator/rectifier. The big 'ol fins are for dissipating heat. A good start would be to reconnect the wires on the box to the like wires on the engine, and then test for your 12V on the output of the box. That 12V output (or 13, or 14V, whatever) goes back to your battery. It's critical that you put it back together with something more than wire nuts and electrical tape. I would solder it back together after cleaning all the ends of each wire, and use some weather-proof shrink-wrap to get it back in serviceable, reliable shape. Cheap to do, and it's well worth the time and effort...

    ~m

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by hydromike View Post
    A good start would be to reconnect the wires on the box to the like wires on the engine, and then test for your 12V on the output of the box. That 12V output (or 13, or 14V, whatever) goes back to your battery.
    Thank you for the sugestion, but the wires on the box are not the same as the ones that come out of the engine.

    I put some starting fluid in to the carb after taping all the ends of the wires, beacuse i heard that the engine will run if it is compleatly un-hooked from every thing else. It started right up on the first pull! It really purs....... Now if my reasoning is correct, all that i need to do is attach the ignition wires so that i can turn it off, and i won't have to worry about the electric start and recharging curcit right now. I think that the diagram that you gave me will get me far enough to hook up the charging circut. Thank you for all your help; and i will keep you posted on how it goes.

    -Kevin

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