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I need some help so I don't end up making a bad problem worse. I bought this old orange 8x8 argo as a project. No motor, shot tires, rusty chains, and a large crack by the rear hitch from being froze to the ground and the previous owner trying to pull it with his tractor. So for the crack what's the best way to fix it? Plastic weld? Epoxy/resin? Need some pointers.
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Plastic welding may be the best way, but there is a learning curve/ acquired skill level in doing it. I had patches pull off, etc., until I got the hang of it. Here is the only epoxy I would recommend.....but without proper prep of the plastic it will not hold either. WEST SYSTEM | Plastic Boat Repair - Kayak Massacre WEST SYSTEM | Specialty Epoxies - G/flex
I built this using the epoxy http://www.6x6world.com/forums/max-a...-tall-tub.html -
I had the pleasure of seeing buggymans final product and the epoxy looked great. I would trust him on not skipping steps either. I believe he did some tests with the product to see any the outcome would be if the process was not followed exactly and the bond just would not hold properly.Originally posted by thebuggyman1 View Postl like to buy stuff and no I don't do payments!Comment
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Can I get this in Ontario. I'm in between Barrie and North Bay, I just tore my skid pan.
Thanks!Comment
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I bought directly from the factory.....call them and ask.
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check out West Systems G-Flex epoxy. made specifically for plastics. check out the kayak video. should be a no brainier.
robComment
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I do want to add a couple comments:
1) The adhesion of the epoxy IS dependent on how you prep the material. West Sys. gives specs on how well it holds with scratching, scratching+ alcohol cleaning, and flame treating the plastic. I did all three.
2) You only have about a half hour after cleaning/treating the plastic to get the epoxy on it or you must start again.
3) The epoxy WILL stick to it's self, so if doing a large area (making skid plate etc), you could clean/treat the plastic, apply a thin layer of epoxy, then rescratch the epoxy and do your repair in a second step.
4) The epoxy is VERY thin. West Sys. sells a thickener, but I used cloth such as for fiberglass.
5) When I connected the 2 tubs, I used an overlap to make the seam stronger (not a butt seam). I used pop rivets about every 3 inches to hold the seam in place while the epoxy cured, and help support the joint. I also used steel straps to support the upper tub to the frame to take stress off the joint....yes, I do have trust issues
I have about 10 hours on the machine now with no problems.
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If its just proper prep work for the epoxy I may have to try to get some. I know how proper prep work determines the outcome of how well the product bonds from fixing the hull in my boat.Comment
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