I don't know much about how that machine is set up, but since nobody else seems to want to reply I'll start by saying easy only if the distance between the sprockets on the different transmissions are the same. If so, next will be the method by which they are fastened in place, I'm fairly certain they aren't even remotely close to the same there. There have been some transplants done in the past, but you may want to ask yourself why haven't MORE of them been done, there has to be a reason... such as the Argo transmission serves it's purpose well enough to render it not worth the trouble? It also has a low range. Or is the "return" or advantage for doing the amount of modification required, substantial (or not) enough to merit doing it. Both the T20 and Argo transmissions have been around for a long time and both are solid drive systems or they wouldn't have. So the next point is, why would one want to go to the trouble, some people like the T20 more than the Argo, others not so much. A better question might be: how much does it cost to swap to an Admiral transmission, and is that possible. It might cost more but be much easier, and it seems that the folks who have the Admirals LOVE them...
DESTRUCTION is just a couple of vowels down the street from DISTRACTION
Go for it! if the output shafts on the T-20 dont match up with the jack shafts on the argo, it should not be too hard to get some "pillow block" bearings that will sit up on top of the frame rails in the argo for a "new" jack shaft that is 6 spline (you can buy the 6 spine weld in sprockets and choose yourown jack shaft width. Take lots of picture and keep us posted
Alaska floating atvs group on face book. Fixing help and trail rides!!!!!
Is this a feasible or can it be easily done on an 03 Conquest.
thanks
John
If I were going to do a conversion, I'd find an engine and transaxle from a front drive car (geo metro, toyota tercel, nissan setra) and convert all to a true brake steer system. I'd power the center axle and drive to the front and rear axles. Just a thought.
I wouldn't touch this moddification, what do you hope to gain? By going to the T-20 you are going to lose your low gear and that is important for an 8x8.
If you want mobility leave the Argo alone a stick a pair of the new Adair tracks on that machine. You will never get stuck again and you will have very good water speed. Check out some of the videos posted by Conquest owners with Adair tracks. You will not be disapointed.
I'm with Spookum. You'll lose low range, and it'll be a task to mate the T-20 output sprocket spacing with the current jackshafts. I like the idea of throwing thought at an idea instead of money, so figure out a plan to gear lower either with larger primary sprockets or T-20 output sprockets and jump in head first. My Attex 8x8 is a heavy, heavy machine, but it's geared low enough to take advantage of all that the engine puts out. She still tops out around 15-20mph, too. I realize that it's no replacement for a hi-lo range, but it doesn't really suffer.
I say do it, because it's different. I'm going to attempt putting a T-20 into a machine where an old Hagen transmission used to reside not because some sort of blind loyalty to the T-20, but because it's going to be hard as h*ll to do.
Thanks for the info guys I'm actually looking for more low end and didn't realize the t 20 had no low gear.
I currently run tracks (standard Argo) and up here in Moosonee I am always running on terrain that is almost floating or wicked swamp conditions which really rob power.
John
All Argo (and max) CVT clutches STOCK are a 2:1 starting ratio. If you get a driven clutch from a polairs (measure your shaft diamater) and moove it away from the trans so it wont hit your drive sprokets, you can have a 4:1 machine, but you would have to realighn the engine. (not as much work as a T-20 install, but probbably more diffacult that tuning what you have.
Let me know what you think, i would love to try to help you find the right belt/cluch combo to run on your conquest!
A 30 second search yeilded a polaris secondary clutch for 50 bucks. One would have to cross refrence belt width and belt lenght with what you are runnning already, but IT CAN BE DONE. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Polaris-Indy...sories&vxp=mtr
Seems like everyone upgrades engines to get "more power" but the CVT system could be made to do the same thing i beleive!
I have considered this swap for a while. A friend looked into converting his Argo and added a second jackshaft to get a really low gear ratio. I was going to swap sides with the input shaft on the t20 to get controlls at rear of transmission. The t20 is wider between output sprockets. The splined jackshaft Argo has enough movement on the large gears to get the width. Clutch alignment will be a problem. The final gear ratio with stock Argo sprockets will be to fast for me. The t20 is about 6.25:1 ratio in to output. Still thinking about it,maybe someday.
I have considered this swap for a while. A friend looked into converting his Argo and added a second jackshaft to get a really low gear ratio. I was going to swap sides with the input shaft on the t20 to get controlls at rear of transmission. The t20 is wider between output sprockets. The splined jackshaft Argo has enough movement on the large gears to get the width. Clutch alignment will be a problem. The final gear ratio with stock Argo sprockets will be to fast for me. The t20 is about 6.25:1 ratio in to output. Still thinking about it,maybe someday.
Count me in as a free helper I know where an argo is for 500 bucks...... ha ha ha oh, and a 88 sprint fire fly for 200 he he he If it is going to be that much greif, might as well go big!
Alaska floating atvs group on face book. Fixing help and trail rides!!!!!
ok guys im getting ready to pull trigger on this just need some deminsion on t20
sproket to sproket, total higth, i have room in engine compartment to move engine
all help is good, will take pic , going to sell argo trans to buy t 20, thanks
IF you want more low range, add a few shims to your driven clucth spring (the one on the transmission). Seems like everyone upgrades engines to get "more power" but the CVT system could be made to do the same thing i beleive!
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I'm thinking there is a mistake here
You can not "Shim" the Spring in your Secondary Clutch (the one on the Trans), but you CAN tighten/loosen it by moving the spring to the appropriate hole. Factory setting is hole 3. Moving to hole 2 or even hole 1 will decrease your rate of Upshift and increase your rate of Downshift. I have 2 8x8 Conquests, one has the stock 20hp engine, and I prefer the spring in hole 1 for it. The other machine has a 27hp engine, I prefer the Secondary Spring in hole 2 for it.
I would just like to add a word of caution here. IMHO, you should not add more than one shim under the Primary Spring. If your shim is not thick enough for what you want..... GET A THICKER SHIM. If you add a shim thicker than 5/32 (IIRC) you will coil bind your Primary Clutch. Adding a shim here will increase your engagement RPM. Both my Conquests have 5/32" Shims in them.
got t20 i will be taking top off and removing power pack, . will be installing chaines while im at it, moving gas tank and battery to rear under seat for better weight control.
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