yah, once i went ahead and hamered on a roll pin and got it to mushroom at the axel. Try a tappered drimmil tool carbide bit.... you can even run it in your normal drill if you have no die grinder
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Argo 8x8 I/C - Need Source for Axles, other questions, backstory...
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Alaska floating atvs group on face book. Fixing help and trail rides!!!!!
https://www.facebook.com/groups/alaska.AATVs/
85ish Argo 8x8 geo metro engine, hdi axles and 3 bearings per axle.
78 ford bronco... 460 lockers.... "Alaskan tow vehicle"
ATV = Alaska Terain Vehicle
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Sprockets stuck
The pins are finally coming out!!
Beating them with a drift pin, grinding them off flush the sprocket, then driving them the rest of the way through worked.
Now the next problem. The sprocket is stuck on the axle.
I have beat on it, heated it, sprayed the crap out of it with PBlaster and it won't budge.
I saw an axle puller on this website and built my own with stuff laying around. But the sprocket still won't budge.
I have had the puller on the axle with a lot of tension for the past three days, applying pblaster and turning the nuts as much as they'll go but nothing. I am thinking I will have to cut the axle out
Any thoughts before I go ahead and start cutting? I was hoping to salvage the axles and sprockets since replacements are pretty expensive.
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Drive it
Saw this thread:
http://www.6x6world.com/forums/argo-...king-argo.html
Suggestion was to pop the pins out and then drive the machine to loosen the sprockets. I believe I will try this over the up coming week and see how that works out.
The challenge will be that this axle is missing the outer bearing. All the balls literaly fell out of it. I have a new flange on order so as long as I don't do any damage to the frame all should be good.
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I have had a couple of machines where I had to remove the wheel flange, and take the axle out through the inside of the tub. Then put the axle in a press with some heat on the sprocket tube. If you are careful you can save the axle, and weld the flange back on. I actually did this over the past weekend.
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Its time to upgrade. Forum member whipper can make you custom splined axles and sprockets, I recommend to have him to heat treat the sprockets as well. I also recommend that you get the new synthetic bearings from Adair Argo. Get two per axle, they will mount outside the hull and not only act as a bearing but also as axle support. They are rugged, simple, and super easy to install. With these simple upgrades your machine should last a lifetime. I also recommend that you replace your chains as well. While you are doing all that you might consider an update on the chain adjusters as well.
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Hi Noel,
I would love to do an upgrade on this unit. However, the funds are not available right now. If I can get it running reliably for a while then I might be able to justify, to the wife, spending more money on it. The wife has already started making comments that we should have bought a UTV instead.
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Hi Jim,
Bunch of questions for you; Did you grind the weld on both sides of the wheel flange? Did you mark the flange and axle so that it was indexed the same when welding back on? Any special alignment issues when re-welding the flanges back on?
Also when you pulled the axle out from the inside where you able to pull it out between the frame rails with the sprocket still installed?
I have been driving this thing around for about 2 hours total now and the holes through the sprocket and axle are still lined up. So its time to cut the axle or cut the flange off. I think cutting the flange is the best option if the axle will pull through the inside of the unit.
-Tom
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My situations were on a MaxII (splined axle) and a MaxIV (pinned axle). On the MaxII, the flange is more of a hub, the weld is on the outside only and after grinding it off it was easy to re-install and weld together again. On the MaxIV, the weld was on the inside of the flange. Much more difficult to grind off. To align it, I used an old sprocket tube, put it in a lathe to take the teeth off, then used it as a hub. I tack welded it, spun it in the lathe, and welded it the rest of the way. You could skip the hub part, but the spinning part is important.
Once the inner bearing and outer bearings are removed, my axles came out through the inside. Yes, between the frame rails.
Index? Like to keep alignment from sprockets to wheel flange? There is no need, the wheel flange can go back on in any position.
When driving around, was that the only wheel on that side driving? Pins or chains removed for the other axles? If not, you may not be putting much stress on the fused connection.
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