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**thebuggyman1** · 03-17-2013, 06:31 PM

I would look for a little more modern 2 stroke with similar characteristics as what is in it now. Trying to "upgrade" the old machine will probably cost more than it is worth.
What part of "mid-Michigan"???

**Badlildoggy** · 03-17-2013, 08:37 PM

The Rock Doctor has some engine upgrade videos uo on Youtube but I think they are on his slightly more modern Conquest's. It will take a little fabricating but with enough determination and I guess time being always the limiting factor it can be done.

**teeko** · 03-18-2013, 08:44 AM

2 strokes are very simple motors. I would agree with the buggyman. I just recently rebuilt a Koher 400 that was siezed and it runs great. If you went to 4 stroke you would have to change the clutches and since you are trying to keep costs down, I'd say a rebuild is the way to go. If the motor is a Kohler there is a company in upper MI called GPI or growth products inc. They own the Kohler 2 stroke rights. I bought all my internals for about 225.00 Pistons, rings, all bearings and gaskets. The only thing they didn't have were the crank pins so I just bought some pins from a bike shop with the same diameter and just had to face them to the right length. Rebuilding the crank should run you about 50 bucks in labor. You'd be sitting at under 300 bucks with no fabrication needed. Mine is a little on the noisy side but it sure does go. I haven't gps'd the top speed yet but I'd say it is somewhere in the 35mph plus range. Fast for a skid steer! Hope this helps. Good luck

**teeko** · 03-18-2013, 08:54 AM

also check the engine thread. jchiotti is also looking to make the switch to 4 stroke.

**outsource_mech** · 03-18-2013, 01:45 PM

Buggy man...I live in the greater Lansing area north of town a little. I have the fab skills/tools to make minor mods to mounting bracket and such, just need to know if changing the motor would be a better deal or not. Speed is not an issue, rather getting in and out without having to call a tow or getting stuck out in the boonies with no power. The previous owner has swapped out the stock fuel tank with a boat tank and squeeze tube to get fuel to the carb, once it is going it runs fine, a little noisey, but okay. Was wondering about one of the Duromax 16hp honda clones, but not sure if that would be enough power for an 8x8. Decisions, decisions...

Thanks for the input folks...keep any advice coming as this is going to be a project for us over the summer!

Thanks again!

**ARGOJIM** · 03-18-2013, 08:01 PM

I was going to stay away from this post but I can't. Your asking a lot of this machine for what it is, while it will do what your wanting to do it will have problems and may cost more to make the corrections than keeping this as it is and playing with it.
When I was a youngster we had a 76 2 stroke and a 78 tecumseh ( that we still have) both 8 wheelers one was fast and loud the other was slow and proud, they both had a similar problem, the brakes over heating and/or going out of adjustment and the front ( usually the right side under the battery) spiral pins breaking.

**ARGOJIM** · 03-18-2013, 08:22 PM

Ok sorry just had to check I'm still here, some other problems with this machine for your tasks are the frame has an open centered floor making for a lot of frame flex leading to cracking mostly at the welds and the upper body design was for the compact 2 strokes and when the 16 Tecumseh was put in Argo originally used a steel mesh box before modifying the hood. If you try to put a v-twin in it you may have to cut the hood opening even more for clearance and not be able to use the hood at all.
Our 16 Tec. served us well for 9 years before the Magnum came out and we upgraded, during this time it was usually loaded with 4 to 6 people or blazing new trails for some many of the enduros we held. It did it we adjusted the brakes, ran with the hood, fixed those darn pins and of course a couple bent axles and wore out chains and had larger biceps from fighting it all day.

Perhaps Spookum will chime in here, when we did the dual chain conversion years ago our frame was cracked in 27 places, so we welded it and did a hydraulic brake conversion and after setting a couple years remembered why we upgraded( just enough or maybe not enough power). Now while this is a fun machine for a weekend of trail riding I do not recommend it for your situation as there are many updated machines out there needing some work much more suited for the work your looking to do, you may still have to rebuild them though.

**outsource_mech** · 03-22-2013, 10:50 AM

Thanks for the advice ARGOJIM...The slow and proud route is the route that will be taken and after speaking with the owner he is still willing to spend the money. I have it almost ready to split the tub and open her up today. The beauty is that the frame is in great condition, we plan on venting the hood and ducting for the new motor so we can keep it cool so hood mods are not a problem here. Like I said before, I have a welder, enough skill and alot of determination. And I see your point on an updated machine that might need to be rebuilt...I have a machine and I can't see why I would look for a newer one even to rebuild when I already have a platform to work with. The fun starts today! We are ordering a 22hp Lifan V-twin and Comet 94C clutch to go with it. I may need to make a new floor plate for the motor, but I have enough metal around to accomplish this. I will try to get some pics around as I go...I am sure I will need some advice as I progress! The hydraulic brake conversion does sound interesting to me...You guys are very kind and helpful and I appreciate it.

**thebuggyman1** · 03-22-2013, 05:31 PM

Clutch alignment is very important.[IMG][/IMG]

**ARGOJIM** · 03-22-2013, 05:53 PM

Good luck with the build, do a lot of measuring, Spookum's frame suggestion is a good one. Wasn't trying to deter you on the build, just laying out that you're working with about a generation design driveline and we're currently at around ninth since 1967. Argo is very good about design and redesign for longevity, if you only have one operator machine should handle the work once he learns the machine's limits, always shift the trans. at idle and full stop clutch alignment and deflection are important.
Again good luck with the build and to the owner.

**jchiotti** · 03-22-2013, 07:13 PM

Outsource, thanks for the posts. I am looking to drop a new motor in my 1970's 8x8 soon too. I was thinking about the 23 hp vabguard, but don't know if will be too tall. Don't want to modify the hood if I don't have too. Are u going to do any mods to the frame or axles? I am a little worried about putting a new motor into this older machine, even though it is in great shape. I live near Flint, MI argo is up in the thumb right now. I will post some picks when I can.

**thebuggyman1** · 03-22-2013, 07:39 PM

Flint is only an hour away from me. We should get together and ride sometime.

**jchiotti** · 03-22-2013, 09:20 PM

Sounds good just have to get er runnin good first.

**spookum** · 03-24-2013, 03:48 AM

and the frame extension in the front is really easy. You can just use the pattern of the inner frame rail, and notch it to fit around the jackshaft..... I is on my to do list to wade through the hundreds of pictures that i have, and put together a how to.... if you have a drill and a welder, i think you can fab something togeterh.... but if you were desperate, you MAY be able to bolt it together too... but that would be more work.

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