Argo body spacer. Anyone know deets???

[Rudy_Magnum]

A buddy of mine bought this 8x8 a few months ago. Good machine, good deal. Basically, the guy just wanted it gone, like, NOW. So, happy to oblige, he took it off his hands and didn't ask questions. But, that leaves us all wondering, where on God's green earth did that 3" rubber body spacer come from, and where can I get (or make) one???

Anyone in the hive mind have any ideas?

[Normable1973]

Can I ask why you would want one? Norm..

[blazin674]

Can I ask why you would want one? Norm..

mine would be for hood clearance. My argo has a briggs 23 in it and it barely fits. I'm interested in this also.

[Rudy_Magnum]

Hood clearance as well as more buoyancy. Can ride a little deeper in the water. Primary use of machine will be to go camping, just like in this picture. We cross two lakes. Its nice to have that little bit extra.

For hood clearance, because I'm putting a diesel in mine. Its a thermoking yanmar, so it has an enormous oil pan. I like the oil pan, so don't want to change it for a smaller one, but will need at least two extra inches at the hood.

[blazin674]

McMaster-Carr sells rubber in 1"x 2" sections up to 25 foot long.

[Rushlow]

I am working on something just like that but it will be made from c channel. Can you get some pictures from the inside, wonder if it ties into the frame at all?

[blazin674]

I am working on something just like that but it will be made from c channel. Can you get some pictures from the inside, wonder if it ties into the frame at all?

If you tie it into the frame you can eliminate the lower tub sagging from the extra weight of the spacer.

[Rudy_Magnum]

We deal with McMaster Carr at work, will have a look. This one is a solid piece though, not stacked at all. If I do it, will be tied into the frame. I plan on building a rack as well, so would be nice to support that too.

[Rushlow]

I am fighting tub sagging and need some extra height under the hood for the engine. I am interested to see how it ties into the frame and if it's cut and bent around the corners or if it was made to fit. Could use conveyor belt or something like that and glue layers together. It doesn't look like that was how it was constructed.

I am still thinking it needs to tie into the frame some how which would mean that you need some way of joining the rubber to steal. Either it has steal in the core and had mounts on the inside.

Lets see the inside you got to snap some pictures for us

[wedge]

Check into a Heavy Truck dody bulder or repair shop. Thay use this type of rubber for trailer repair and seals.

[Rudy_Magnum]

I'm getting a quote from a guy in MI. From what I've seen, it may cost a few hundred for a spacer. We shall see what he comes back with.

[rodp]

You want to ask the weight per foot as well, rubber ain't light. Pressed steel channel may be the better option long term even if the initial work is more.

[Rudy_Magnum]

I did let him know that lighter is probably better. Haven't heard anything back yet. I'd imagine wood would also be a good choice. Cheap, easy to get, easy to work, floats. As long as you don't leave it wet forever, would be a good option.

[rodp]

The trouble with wood is ........................ well .............. it just looks like wood if you know what I mean, it's just primitive.

[Rudy_Magnum]

Rubber is no longer an option. $50 USD per foot. Plus delivery, plus import charges. Would end up being like $1800 by the time I'm all done. That's more than I have into this rig.