New guy with lotsa problems!

[PaSean]

First off, hello all. I'm new here and to Argo's.

Did what I thought was a good idea last week. Bought a 2000 Conquest for dirt cheap. Has tracks and a plow and the main reason I bought it was to plow my drive and haul firewood around my property.

Didn't run when I got it, no fuel. Replaced the fuel pump, tore down the carb and cleaned it out. Fuel shut off froze so I cut off the pintle so I could at least hear it run. New fuel and filter. Checked the lines for leaks, ok. Started right up and run pretty well after that. Drove it around about 30 minutes.

Problems:

1 - Engine smokes (oil) like an old freight train. (checked but didn't change oil or filter)

2 - Seems low on power. In low and climbing a hill of about 40 degrees I need wide open throttle to make it up the hill and it is struggling. (1 person in machine, not towing)

3 - Charging system not working. 12.2 volts at any rpm, headlamps on, 11.9 volts at any rpm and dropping.

Machine has 150.3 hours on it. Engine is a Kaw 20 HP FD620D, slight surge at idle, no overheating, smoke is blue with the telltale oil odor.

I've been an auto tech for well over 20 years but I'm not so sharp on these little things.

Any input would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks all!

[ARGOJIM]

Pull the valve covers and check the push rods. Check grounds for charging issue, but first look under the radiator and see if it has a mini alternator and if belt is tight (or there).

[PaSean]

Thanks, ArgoJim. There is no alt. Only belt on it is for cooling fan. Pushrods, do they bend or push through the rockers/ Are they adjustable and if so, do you know what the gap is supposed to be?

Many thanks.

[PaSean]

Good call on the pushrods. Found the left bank intake rod popped off the rocker. Thanks for the heads-up!

[PaSean]

Guess I jumped for joy a little to soon. That valve seems to be froze in the guide. O well, guess I'll be pulling that head.

[ARGOJIM]

Don't pull the head yet, spray some penatrant on it and lightly tap it,it will work loose, you may have to pull it a little if it sticks all the way down but usually not. Gap is .010 or 6mm both sides.
Behind the firewall on the drivers side is the regulator, don't trust the gauge yet, hook up a tester to the battery and check it first. Is the red light always on?

[thorn]

Check the fuel shut off solenoid at the bottom of the carb. It is really common for this to get stuck from old gummy fuel. When I got my Conquest with only 20 hrs on it the pin in my solenoid was stuck somewhat forward and was restricting the fuel flow to the main jet, which meant it was lacking power. Some guys just trim off the "pin" and never have a problem.

[PaSean]

I checked it with a voltmeter. There are no warning lights on though, but the volt meter (Snap-On meter) shows low volts. I'll try that with the stuck valve. Just curious, are these free wheeling engines?

Shut off solenoid was froze, did an unauthorized repair on that. :o)

I really appreciate everyone's help. Thanks.

[PaSean]

After an hour of playing with the stuck valve, it finally started to move. Pulled the spring and worked at it now it seems ok. This machine sat for the last few years so I'm hoping that was the cause and not an oiling problem. Anyway, runs much better now that both cylinders are making power.

Now to the charging system. Think I'll make a bracket and fit a low amp alternator to it that I have laying around from an Kubota diesel. Maybe run an electric cooling fan to keep the load as light as possible on the engine.

Again, thanks all.

[Old Tucker]

There are lots of little things you can do. Like put in LED head light, They draw very little current to compared to the stock light. Running a electric cooling fan for the motor is only going to draw more current from the system.
Also try a little tran fluid in the gas it helps to loosen the valves and rings. the FD 620 motor is a good little unit but it needs some TLC and she will last a long long time for you.

[ARGOJIM]

The valves commonly gum up from crappy gas, excessive idling and short runs. If it's free and running good now spray some 2+2 cleaner in the carb while running to loosen up the gum/varnish, after you put it back together take it out and run the snot out of it for about an hour and you should be good.
These engines seem to attract "the harmful deposits" you here about in the gas commercials. Usually if they're run up to temp for a while you're ok.

[PaSean]

I ran it around the woods today for 30 minutes or so. Seems to run well now. I'll hit it with some carb cleaner tomorrow.

Thank for the advice.