Idler chain issue...

[mitchamus]

here is the first pic again with the relevant evidence picked out in red...


bent3.jpg

[Rock Doctor]

This is really something I've not come across before, and not being there to check it out, I don't have any suggestions. Mike could be right, might have to start pulling things apart. Taking the trans out is fairly easy, and may open it up enough to see what's going on.

RD

[ARGOJIM]

Ok so I've run into this with varying causes, most ignored.
It's hard to explain but usually a slight pry between the trans and cross shaft work or wiggling the engine side (or both). Remember this is not exactly precision mounted like the engine mount holes are, the power pack sits on a round tube and rotates slightly forward and back in slotted holed ears welded to the frame.
Could simply be mud/rust under the powerpack.
Could simply be the weight of the flywheel and radiator on that side, if the power pack levels easily with the adjustment bolt and a shove down on the raised side ,it could be this.

I have found a bent powerpack which should be obvious after removing trans. and brake duct if you wish to inspect that far, remove the trans and brake duct a slight twist may be under it.

Removing the engine and trans from the powerpack and placing back in the frame should tell you #1 and #2 and #3 quick enough and be able to get all the grime from under it out. But that's a lot of work, once the right chain is on and both side adjusted and wheels roll with no bind I'd let it be.

[ARGOJIM]

Ok so I've run into this with varying causes, most ignored.
It's hard to explain but usually a slight pry between the trans and cross shaft work or wiggling the engine side (or both). Remember this is not exactly precision mounted like the engine mount holes are, the power pack sits on a round tube and rotates slightly forward and back in slotted holed ears welded to the frame.
Could simply be mud/rust under the powerpack.
Could simply be the weight of the flywheel and radiator on that side, if the power pack levels easily with the adjustment bolt and a shove down on the raised side ,it could be this.

I have found a bent powerpack which should be obvious after removing trans. and brake duct if you wish to inspect that far, remove the trans and brake duct a slight twist may be under it.

Removing the engine and trans from the powerpack and placing back in the frame should tell you #1 and #2 and #3 quick enough and be able to get all the grime from under it out. But that's a lot of work, once the right chain is on and both side adjusted and wheels roll with no bind I'd let it be.

Planned to stay out of this like RD as I'm on the wrong side of the clock to see what's going on.
What an idiot I am!, should have read the initial post more than once. Simply sounds as if there is a link bunched on the lower sprocket, check this FIRST. If the problem is solved forget all the rest for now.

[mitchamus]

Thanks for all the suggestions Jim.

The powerpack seems to be jammed in tight.

No amount of wiggling, pushing, dropping, taping, bashing or swearing seems to want to make it budge.

It's definitely not the Chain link binding up, I have had a chain installed (with extra links) and the thing running around, but did so using 2 joiners and an extra link. This canted the whole tranny over and I believe made the drive belt skewed and it hard to shift.

Below is a pic of the chain tensioner tool I made (excuse the schoolboy welding) Which I wound up VERY tight... which should have pulled it down level if it was able to.
(NOTE: with the 'too long' chain installed)


chain tensioner.jpg


I think I will pull the trans, and examine the front part of the powerpack. There is no other way now to further diagnose the problem.

My next guess is that I think maybe the frame has been repaired and perhaps a weld needs grinding down...

anyways - I will pull the trans and have a look. No avoiding it now...

[ARGOJIM]

Before you pull it I just noticed 1 minute thing, try loosening the trans bolts and rock it left in the pic, does not appear even with the cross tube. There is some play there also.

Removing the installed chain and lifting the powerpack some should allow you to check for obstruction on rear and second mounts with a mirror and/or magnet.

[mitchamus]

ok great - thanks Jim.

that may save me a lot of trouble.

[ARGOJIM]

Off early today and going to work on my project, forgot to mention to loosen the dash support so you are not fighting that weight.

[mitchamus]

Right so...

power-pack frame definitely twisted/bent

Was finally able to get the left idler chain installed at the correct length, but at the cost of now not being able to front power pack bolt in place.

While trying to remove the brake discs, I must have pushed on the thing the right way, and it moved a little. It was a cold morning as well, and I think things had shrunk a little bit to allow a bit of wiggle room.

At this stage I am just going to run without the front frame bolt in place, and see if anything moves around.

I will not be taking this thing on fire trails in the short term, just using it for weed spraying, and running round the farm.

[rapidroy]

G' day my friend. If that frame is bent it will affect the clutch center to center distance thus affecting belt performance. We discovered a taco'ed power pack frame on my brothers conquest after diagnosing poor clutch performance and measuring center distance on the trans and engine. Apparently caused from chain tensioning without loosening the center bolt. You may be able to remove and straighten/ reinforce it or replace. We replaced and it made a huge improvement.
Good luck. RR

[mitchamus]

Yes no doubt, I am still yet to measure the centres.

I really don't want to pull to pull the engine back out...