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  • Noel Woods
    replied
    Foxvalley wrapped it up pretty well. There's a lot of innovation coming from the big two AATV companies. The machines have never been as good as they are today. Even so, there will be issues on any new piece of equipment you purchase. Some will be easy to work through, some not. Many problems are the result of human error.

    It looks like a handle is pretty much being had on all those problems and I'm looking forward to seeing the machine in question in action.

    Leave a comment:


  • foxvalley
    replied
    Sounds like most of your major issues are comming from the installation of the rubber tracks.You can see by one of the pics how the dog ears on the tracks were biting into the tires. Where the tires measured and matched? Was there a big difference in tire size? If so,were track tuners mentioned? Tire failure, bolts being sheared off, and chains breaking,can all be a result of chain wind up due to improperly sized tires,but the use of track tuners eliminates most of these issues.
    The canvas top will not have any sag if properly installed and adjusted.Oil is easy to change with the use of a fluid pump.No, auto oilers should not be standard equipment,along with the bilge.
    Being more informed as a buyer before dumping 32k,and also as a dealer in this case,instead of targeting ODG as the source of all your problems,might have resulted in most of these issues never happening.
    After my recent trip,being invited to visit ODG, and after meeting with the owners and ceo's,I am very exited for all the new changes they have made, and also for all the cool ideas, and products comming down the pike.

    Leave a comment:


  • Noel Woods
    replied
    Right on point, I enjoy atvs and utvs and when it comes to trail riding or messing around in anything other than a swamp, its hard to beat them. But when you need to go into the hard to reach swampy areas, an AATV can't be beat.

    Leave a comment:


  • AK5150
    replied
    I agree regarding the Adair Track Tuners. They made a huge difference in the ride and lessens the strain on the drivetrain. Once you get the track tension figured out they work really well. I had tire slippage when the tracks got wet, so I removed the track spacers, which eliminated the slippage and I still have enough sag in the track to prevent premature bearing wear.

    Argos definitely do not ride like a 4 wheeler or side by side, which feel like a Cadillac after being in the Argo. But, when the terrain likes to eat 4 wheelers and side by sides for lunch, I cruise on by while being warm, dry, and less frustrated. Running 35 miles into moose camp used to take up to 9 hours on 4 wheelers with trailers. I got tired of winching myself 20 feet just to get stuck again and have to use my buddy's Argo as a winch anchor. I bought an Argo for last season and two Argos with trailers took just over 5 hours because we never got stuck. And we took everything to include the kitchen sink! On the ride out, the Argo didn't care about all the moose meat in the trailers!

    I kept the 4 wheeler for the hard pack and rocky terrain, but if there's a hint of swamp, tundra or mud, the Argo is my first choice.

    Also,get one of these Dewalt grease guns. Your maintenance will never be the same... http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...ilpage_o00_s00

    Leave a comment:


  • afranzky
    replied
    A couple of tips that will help with two of your issues. I would put Adair Track Tuners on the four center axles (turning them in to idlers) and replace the other four axle extensions with one piece extensions (Adair has some for $35US). Once this is done you can lower the tire pressure (quite a bit in the four center tires) which will significantly improve your ride comfort, and you will not have any more issues with studs shearing off.
    I do agree that the machines are expensive, but they are made in Canada with quality components, and the machine needs to be light enough to float with a useable payload. If you look at some of the more custom made aluminum machines with hydrostatic drives, they are too heavy to float, have very little storage space since the hydraulic system takes up so much space and they cost an awful lot more than the Argo.
    I just bought a used HDI with ROPS and rubber tracks from a local business for $11 000, and it is quite a far cry from the old single cylinder machines that I rode in when I was younger.
    They are unique, I won't be selling my ATVs or my sleds, but I am really glad that I have one for getting very large game out of very difficult places.

    Leave a comment:


  • Buzz
    replied
    I definitely agree with you there, Dan. When the going's bad, it's not even a contest. A tracked amphib smokes everything else. The hours-to-maintenance regimen is what breaks most people. Just something you gotta get used to I guess. After a while it's no biggie. There are far worse things to do in life, that's for sure. It's just to bad these things cost a fortune to buy new. It's the biggest hurdle.

    Leave a comment:


  • mightymaxIV
    replied
    I hear your goods and bad's, but here's the facts, over rough impossible terrain I will leave a dozen lifted $25,000.00 side by sides spinning their out laws in the mud and greeting me at our destination hours behind me. My clean up and maintenance takes about 1/5 the time I spent on my quad. Slow???? Depends on the terrain. Give me a very bad mud trail (Mud Nationals) and all the the lifted quads and side by sides look like the slow machines to me. Maintenance?? If you want to see maintenance run a lifted quad behind an Argo for an hour on a mud trail and you are going to find out what maintenance is. The rough ride? I can live with it and under the right trail conditions an 8x8 with tracks is smoother then a lifted machine with outlaws and at the end of the day I will be relaxed and the quad driver will be ready for a trip to the Chiropractor.

    Leave a comment:


  • wrench9
    replied
    I have owned Argos for 30+ years I went through the same thing as you I had a avenger (06) I ran tracks a lot every year it was bearings and axles breaking at the flange etc etc. I used my machine hard but not rough or abusive the lubricating of chains greasing etc was always done almost weekly. In 13 I bought a XTI with auto lube it was second hand but only had 126 km on it. It is night and day axles are huge and oil bathed it has auto lube top fits good trans is better you do not have to worry about chain wind up on the plastic sliders due to design of tensioner I cannot complain. I had one issue with the output pressed on couplings on the trans output shaft getting loose. ODG upgraded these to the 15 specs at no charge although we talked about it for a bit they came through even though it was out of warranty. I currently have over 4000km on the machine and have had no other problems I did not cause myself. I am on my second set of chains on the front two axles as these chains are short and a little stretch they become quite loose I run the 20" tracks and use them for almost 6 months of the year. I think your dealer should have pushed you towards the XTI it is a machine with a commercial running gear but still recreational useable, they are a real workhourse in your case it would suit your bill perfectly if you are alone on your trapline and depend on it. One thing I would strongly suggest is keeping extra main links and a cut up set of vice grips to reattach the chains I have 2 shorter pieces of chain for spares that I can put together and make any chain on the machine with the proper # of links without cutting one up in the woods in case one breaks. This has happened to me when I had the tires too hard and the snow got between the tires and tracks the tire could not compress and the power of the machine snapped the #60 chain like a piece of thread I have learned not to put too much press in the tires and this has not happened since

    Leave a comment:


  • JohnF
    replied
    Originally posted by treetop62 View Post
    All Argo's need lube, it doesn't matter where you live so it only makes sense to put this in every unit.
    This isn't as obvious as it sounds. One of my playgrounds is the ancient sand dunes known as the sandhills of Nebraska. I have some experience with a lot of equipment in that region. The silty sand will (seemingly magically fly to) cling to anything with oil on it and destroy it. I wouldn't use an auto-oiler as I prefer dry lube (ChainSaver).

    Leave a comment:


  • ARGOJIM
    replied
    Treetop62, sorry to hear of your bad experiences, hopefully you clear the fence even though this side is not for everyone's needs or wants.
    You stated you have only run the machine with tracks, does that include the hard packed ground of the summer? The rubber tracks are great but have issues like the side rubbed tires( yes I've seen a bunch of those on different machines) steering drag, speed decrease and using more engine power. Running the machine trackless when there is no snow may surprise you where it will go through mud, how it swims (not suggesting an ocean voyage) and most of all how easily the machine will turn, speed will increase and engine power would be needed less. You could even try it just by removing the tracks and not the spacers. Oh cancel the swim part if you are running Heat tires.

    I feel some of your pain as in the windshield and top issue, being 6'2" usually, the windshield is too low for me to comfortably see out of especially with a wiper (which is always in the way) and though the 4" foam in the seat of the newer machines( compared to the Conquests and before) is more comfortable, it raises your eye line. The convertible top rising from the windshield then becomes a head rub zone as you lean down forward to see. Pain! The reason best I can figure is the clearance is for usage with the windshield folded, it is already on the edge of too far out now and anyone who has broke one will agree, so making it comfortable to see out off will have you more disturbed when the windshield is broke from touching a tree or ditch bank. Both have happened to many. The tops fitment issue I won't comment on as every top, body and windshield are slightly different dimensionally. For the over head issue you could try a bow running from windshield to support, or repositioning your snap as tops due stretch.

    Perhaps a plan for next spring when your weather breaks if you are handy, you could try this though it will be taxing and decrease your clearance of overhanging debris.
    Order another windshield hinge kit only, remove your convertible top, with help remove your hinge pin and windshield, install the 2 new hinge halves to the existing hinges, make a block of would or plastic about the 4-6 inches tall you think you need and with help pre mark the holes for your new screws/bolts and the install it. Now that the windshield is raised re attach the top to the windshield (now is the time to be certain that the top is taught on the windshield), using the main support and the rear straps make the over driver section taught and install all the panels. The panels will be short of the body, you will probably need to have a filler piece made to lengthen to the overall height of the top ( if you are able to change the front spacer to about 2" the doors should be close to still in contact of the body enough to not need a filler piece all though it will be short at the lowered entrance points). I have always liked to work from the front to the back keeping all snap points taut both f/b and u/d using the screw snaps and the adjusting bars as a guide and stepping back to see that the window line stays parallel to the body line. It will not be the funnest and the spacer(s) will cost but should make your investment well spent.

    To see if the extension of the top and windshield would help you try and remove the seat and lay a piece of wood on seat frame and go for a ride, if that makes you happy visually, try the spacer and fillers if needed next spring.

    Good luck with the machine.

    Leave a comment:


  • treetop62
    replied
    Thanks guys for chiming in. I have no issue doing the maintenance, and I knew about it going in. I just believe for 32k some of this stuff is a no brainer to be installed in a factory, predelivery. All Argo's need lube, it doesn't matter where you live so it only makes sense to put this in every unit. Bildge pump? Duh its meant to go on water even if it's never used it should be in. Wipers, cab, heaters, tracks etc. are riding area specific and be so should be and EXTRA. When I pay $1500 for a cab and the section from the windshield to the first bar sags low enough to hit my head, I have tried the adjustments but then the rear cab pieces don't fit. The windshield is built for the vertically challenged. The one that really is biting me is, I am going to need the alternator kit. It's $700 plus shop time (there is no way my hands fit in there). So you're looking at a $1000 bill for a $150 alternator, belt and a bracket? Ludicrous.

    I am just stating that for 32k this unit doesn't take me anywhere more special than a done SxS (lot cheaper), and a bit of bridge work wouldn't, except the floating part. I have logged 15k miles in the seat of a SxS so I have been everywhere but swimming with them.

    My dealer has been excellent, with trying to help, but their hands get tied from ODG too. The only "BAD" is the tightening of the bolt extensions, on a dealer level.

    Leave a comment:


  • SHOTGUN
    replied
    My opinion on a few of your comments: I find that there is definitely more maintenance on these machines as a whole and I have come to view them as a piece of equipment and like most equipment there is more regular maintenance. The Argos are definitely slow and rough, but you need to look what they are built for (going through hell), like you said "can't get it stuck" "climbs anything". The tighter the tracks the more wear on the drive components so there is a balance, and as far as I have read all the track styles will slap every once in a while. I think a lot of the Bads listed are in my opinion mostly your dealers fault, in not explaining the characteristics of the machine and not taking care of some warranty issues properly. It seems most all manufactures accessories are over priced, just with AATV's there are very few aftermarket company's that will make them for a better price(Small Market). One thing I will add is that Agro needs every machine from factory to the bilge kit (even for their liability), also every machine should come from factory with the rear body support bracket to prevent body sag(must split the the machine to get it in after). Hope you get it all sorted out and can enjoy your Argo.

    Leave a comment:


  • Buzz
    replied
    argos are expensive when purchased new. Well anything is really. Look at new pickups at the moment..crazy. I agree that certain things are overpriced like tires and accessories. The general operation (correct set up for your conditions) and general maintenance is fairly easy once you get used to it. A common complaint coming from previous ATV owners is that the machines are slow, bumpy, and high-maintenance. True, but when used in bad conditions and for their desired application they are fantastic, faster, and often times smoother. Hang in there, you'll learn tricks on how to make the machine easier to service, operate, and perform. It's normal to have buyer's remorse when you spend 30K+ on an ATV. And, you have every right to expect more when you pay that much. I would be pissed too with those problems. Buzz

    Leave a comment:


  • jpswift1
    replied
    I know guys from Argo/Ontario Drive and Gear watch this site and read the posts. If they want to have future business from you and clear this up they'd do what any good business would do and make this right for you and NOT charge you anything, especially after you spent that kind of money. Word of mouth is one of the most effective methods of advertising and news travels fast in our AATV community, so hopefully Argo will do the right thing here and address these issues.

    Leave a comment:


  • flippy
    replied
    thanks for posting.

    Leave a comment:

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