The black cap is the fuel mixture, the screw next to it is the bowl drain. The idle speed screw is on the side, the newer governor plates have an idle stop and a high rpm stop also but simply twisting the governor plate clockwise sometimes can get the last bit to idle it down enough after carb replacement.
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Bought first argo. Questions follow.
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I see, so I take it somewhere along the line the carb manufacturer figured out that it should only really need that 1/4 turn of adjustment, and the rest is just excess hence not being able to turn it beyond that range? I just find it strange that every mixture screw out there has the same kind of "turn all the way in then 1 3/4 turns out etc, to set the mixture" but this one is locked into a certain position. Anyway I'm not having a problem with that it's running fine as is just need to drop the idle and as you've said the stopper screw on the side should do that. Thanks for clearing that up!
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Originally posted by Coast2Coast View PostI see, so I take it somewhere along the line the carb manufacturer figured out that it should only really need that 1/4 turn of adjustment, and the rest is just excess hence not being able to turn it beyond that range? I just find it strange that every mixture screw out there has the same kind of "turn all the way in then 1 3/4 turns out etc, to set the mixture" but this one is locked into a certain position. Anyway I'm not having a problem with that it's running fine as is just need to drop the idle and as you've said the stopper screw on the side should do that. Thanks for clearing that up!
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Originally posted by Canadian_Zuk View PostThe mixture was set at the factory, the black cap gives the owner a range of adjustment to compensate for elevation changes. The black cap prevents you from adjusting the mixture out of the usable range. You can pop that cap off if you want. Whenever I clean a carb I always spin the screw all the way in first counting the turns to stop so I see exactly where the current setting it. You should have removed that when you cleaned the carb.sigpic
My new beer holder spilled some on the trails - in it's hair and down it's throat.
Joe Camel never does that.
Advice is free, it's the application that costs.
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I didn't see a way to remove the black cap without destroying it. Might fire it up and turn it the 1/4 turn, see what happens. Lol. Going to service the clutch and replace all chains and sprockets next time I'm off. Pretty excited to see if I can get it to turn a little better with some clutch adjustment.
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Originally posted by Coast2Coast View PostI didn't see a way to remove the black cap without destroying it.If it were me it already wouldn't be in the picture and since you aren't afraid to be holding that carburetor there on a bench with tools so close I don't think you need it.
And stop at Ace and pick up a M8x1.0 x 12mm bolt. I see it's missing.
(What's he talking about? <clicky>)
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Idle was up because I had the throttle cable installed differently than before aparently. I loosened it way off and now it idles low.
Shimmed primary clutch spring today, didn't notice a difference. Won't be touching primary clutch again unless it explodes - what a pita to take off and put back on. Belt slips more at high load-low speed now. Will do secondary clutch monday when parts come in.
Bought some used 10.3:1 pistons from a 22HP version of the FD620D today. John Deere/kawi/argo doesn't sell them anymore, they sell 9:1 piston for both engines. Will replace when I replace the plastic camshaft.
Made track cleats out of some hardware store angle iron. Spring ice is coming, need something to grab ice if I break through. Bolted them onto track edges - 9 cleats per side - every 4th link on plastic supertracks. Also made an ice anchor for the winch in case I get high centered in slush.
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