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How fast will it really go??

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  • #16
    Originally posted by philipatmaxfour View Post
    Congratulations for going in the right direction to solving your problem. If you are only achieving 3100 RPMs at full throttle you will not be travelling full speed. Something close to 4000 rpm is normal and that 900 rpm will make a big difference in your top speed and you are on the right track about checking your throttle cable. Your question about "which way to install the tires' is best answered by the owners manual but basically the smallest tire on the front ,then the biggest,then second biggest and second smallest on the rear. Look forward to hearing how you make out.
    Why am I achieving full speed with my machine at 3100 RPM and he is not then? Do not, and I repeat DO NOT increase the RPM of your machine before varifying with ARGO or at least Kohler or whoever the manufacturer of the type of your motor in your Argo approves. 900 rpm on a motor that does not rev that much is significant and can contribute to many other problems include catastrophic failure!

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    • #17
      Thanks...I have the Kohler manual but haven't gotten to read it yet. I thought I read that there is a governor on the engines, so I was assuming it would not allow me to rev past a certain (dangerous) RPM. I was figuring if my RPM was low, I would look at the throttle cable for slack, yet the governor would be kind of a safety and not allow me into the danger zone. Am I thinking correctly on this?

      Thanks!!

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      • #18
        Originally posted by AkBillyBow View Post
        Thanks...I have the Kohler manual but haven't gotten to read it yet. I thought I read that there is a governor on the engines, so I was assuming it would not allow me to rev past a certain (dangerous) RPM. I was figuring if my RPM was low, I would look at the throttle cable for slack, yet the governor would be kind of a safety and not allow me into the danger zone. Am I thinking correctly on this?

        Thanks!!
        Yes you are correct! You would have to modify or remove the governor to allow this and could cause potential damage. I looked at the service and owners manual online at the Kohler Engines website and it only specified an idle RPM but not the max or governor RPM to target. I have heard of issues and valve seizures from people modifying previous Argo motors from revving up, I would do this with extreme caution. Best to talk to Kohler direct, not even ODG. Kohler has likely pushed these engines to failure weather they would make a recommendation or not. You can also put a marker line with a sharpie on the primary and secondary clutches to see if you are getting full use on each of the clutches cycling to their limits or not as well.

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        • #19
          Thanks Sparx. I am not going to modify anything engine related....especially with my limited knowledge of this machine. At most I will look for play in the throttle cable. I think after tuning the wheels/tracks and calibrating the speedo, I will probably be set. The clutches look good to me (coming form a snowmobile background), but I don't believe they have ever been pulled, cleaned and gone through. I do that every year with my sleds, and plan on doing that with the Argo also. I was going to ask if anyone modified the clutches from the factory set-up, but wanted to know the basics of this machine before I asked that question and entertained modifying my clutches. We do it all the time with the sleds, but I haven't ready anything about it here. There is probably more power to get out of those factory clutches....but I will wait a bit for that!!

          Thanks for all of your help!!!

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          • #20
            The wheels and tires issue is for chain wear, it will likely gain you very minimum in track speed other than robbed friction. That's where the track tuners come into play for the mid drives and relieve a lot of stress on the chains and sprockets. I had those on mine, and plan to get them again.
            You have to understand the reasoning between everything and the concept behind it to adapt it to your machine and the conditions you ride it in. The manual is a basic guidline. I removed my metal hinge extension on my track after a 20km breakin of the tracks stretching. I then leave the middle track tuner wheels air free. Then I air up the front and back tire 1 psi apart like factory recommended to tighten the tracks. This is normally 3-5psi for me depending if it's dry warm conditions like summer and fall, or winter conditions down to -40 and the tires start to slip in the tracks with the snow involved.
            Basically, especially on rubber and plastic tracks, run as little air as possible until the tracks then air back up for best ride comfort. If you hear the track slap the body on bumps tighten it up in 0.5psi increments until it goes away. This will provide you with the best ride and the best grip in the tracks.

            I have just started tinkering with my clutches to make sure they are dialed in. I found the belt deflection loose, I tightened it up the most it would allow. The next thing was going to be playing with the secondary preload to make it respond better to my driving habits. It seemed a little slow to respond on the upshift to me so I was going to tighten up the secondary spring a notch or two.

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            • #21
              Originally posted by philipatmaxfour View Post
              Congratulations for going in the right direction to solving your problem. If you are only achieving 3100 RPMs at full throttle you will not be travelling full speed. Something close to 4000 rpm is normal and that 900 rpm will make a big difference in your top speed and you are on the right track about checking your throttle cable. Your question about "which way to install the tires' is best answered by the owners manual but basically the smallest tire on the front ,then the biggest,then second biggest and second smallest on the rear. Look forward to hearing how you make out.
              Well, I found out an issue that I am having is the throttle base is spinning on the handlebar, and not allowing full twist of the throttle. I have tightened down the screws as much as I could (in fear of over tightening them), and it still spins. To better explain, the plastic throttle "base" where the cable comes into on the handlebars is spinning when I twist the throttle past about 3/4 full open. Any ideas how I can fix this? When I hold it in place with my other hand and twist the throttle, I am seeing the extra RPM's that I haven't been seeing. IS this a know issue or is it just something with my machine?

              Thanks again for the help!!

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              • #22
                Sound as if the upper portion of the twist throttle is already broken, look for small cracks at the screw holes.
                Last edited by ARGOJIM; 08-24-2016, 03:45 AM.
                sigpic

                My new beer holder spilled some on the trails - in it's hair and down it's throat.
                Joe Camel never does that.

                Advice is free, it's the application that costs.

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                • #23
                  Use electrical tape or Hockey tape even on the bare handlebars to give the plastic housing something to grip onto as well.

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                  • #24
                    Thanks for the suggestions!!! The throttle also seems a little stiff....so I am wondering if I need to lube the cable. Perhaps that has something to do with it also.

                    AkBillyBow

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                    • #25
                      3100 RPM is way too low to fully shift out your clutches. The governors are adjustable and it doesn't take a rocket scientist to set them up properly, you just need a tachometer. Looks like you found your problem anyway, lube the cable and check the linkages at the carb and governor for any binding. On my Kohler the choke tab on the carb can interfer with the throttle if its tweaked up a little.

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                      • #26
                        Thanks Canadian Zuk !!!!

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                        • #27
                          How fast will it really go??

                          Originally posted by Canadian_Zuk View Post
                          3100 RPM is way too low to fully shift out your clutches. The governors are adjustable and it doesn't take a rocket scientist to set them up properly, you just need a tachometer. Looks like you found your problem anyway, lube the cable and check the linkages at the carb and governor for any binding. On my Kohler the choke tab on the carb can interfer with the throttle if its tweaked up a little.
                          Thanks Zuk, it sounds so much better coming from a member with your very obvious mechanical skills but I knew that 3100 RPM was way too low for maximum RPM. What you said and maybe like Argo Jim said the throttle "base" could be cracked. By the way,as you know, us Argo Hdi owners don't have chokes. Best wishes my friend

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                          • #28
                            Interesting discussion. I'm going to have to check that out. My top speed is 24 km/h, tracks or no tracks (14.9 mph).

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                            • #29
                              Yep...my throttle housing was broken. Guess it was over tightened by the previous owner. I haven't had it out to check the top RPM/Speed yet. Hope to get it out in a couple of days! Thanks for all of the help !!

                              AkBillyBow

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