Originally posted by philipatmaxfour
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How fast will it really go??
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Thanks...I have the Kohler manual but haven't gotten to read it yet. I thought I read that there is a governor on the engines, so I was assuming it would not allow me to rev past a certain (dangerous) RPM. I was figuring if my RPM was low, I would look at the throttle cable for slack, yet the governor would be kind of a safety and not allow me into the danger zone. Am I thinking correctly on this?
Thanks!!
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Originally posted by AkBillyBow View PostThanks...I have the Kohler manual but haven't gotten to read it yet. I thought I read that there is a governor on the engines, so I was assuming it would not allow me to rev past a certain (dangerous) RPM. I was figuring if my RPM was low, I would look at the throttle cable for slack, yet the governor would be kind of a safety and not allow me into the danger zone. Am I thinking correctly on this?
Thanks!!
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Thanks Sparx. I am not going to modify anything engine related....especially with my limited knowledge of this machine. At most I will look for play in the throttle cable. I think after tuning the wheels/tracks and calibrating the speedo, I will probably be set. The clutches look good to me (coming form a snowmobile background), but I don't believe they have ever been pulled, cleaned and gone through. I do that every year with my sleds, and plan on doing that with the Argo also. I was going to ask if anyone modified the clutches from the factory set-up, but wanted to know the basics of this machine before I asked that question and entertained modifying my clutches. We do it all the time with the sleds, but I haven't ready anything about it here. There is probably more power to get out of those factory clutches....but I will wait a bit for that!!
Thanks for all of your help!!!
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The wheels and tires issue is for chain wear, it will likely gain you very minimum in track speed other than robbed friction. That's where the track tuners come into play for the mid drives and relieve a lot of stress on the chains and sprockets. I had those on mine, and plan to get them again.
You have to understand the reasoning between everything and the concept behind it to adapt it to your machine and the conditions you ride it in. The manual is a basic guidline. I removed my metal hinge extension on my track after a 20km breakin of the tracks stretching. I then leave the middle track tuner wheels air free. Then I air up the front and back tire 1 psi apart like factory recommended to tighten the tracks. This is normally 3-5psi for me depending if it's dry warm conditions like summer and fall, or winter conditions down to -40 and the tires start to slip in the tracks with the snow involved.
Basically, especially on rubber and plastic tracks, run as little air as possible until the tracks then air back up for best ride comfort. If you hear the track slap the body on bumps tighten it up in 0.5psi increments until it goes away. This will provide you with the best ride and the best grip in the tracks.
I have just started tinkering with my clutches to make sure they are dialed in. I found the belt deflection loose, I tightened it up the most it would allow. The next thing was going to be playing with the secondary preload to make it respond better to my driving habits. It seemed a little slow to respond on the upshift to me so I was going to tighten up the secondary spring a notch or two.
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Originally posted by philipatmaxfour View PostCongratulations for going in the right direction to solving your problem. If you are only achieving 3100 RPMs at full throttle you will not be travelling full speed. Something close to 4000 rpm is normal and that 900 rpm will make a big difference in your top speed and you are on the right track about checking your throttle cable. Your question about "which way to install the tires' is best answered by the owners manual but basically the smallest tire on the front ,then the biggest,then second biggest and second smallest on the rear. Look forward to hearing how you make out.
Thanks again for the help!!
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Sound as if the upper portion of the twist throttle is already broken, look for small cracks at the screw holes.Last edited by ARGOJIM; 08-24-2016, 03:45 AM.sigpic
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3100 RPM is way too low to fully shift out your clutches. The governors are adjustable and it doesn't take a rocket scientist to set them up properly, you just need a tachometer. Looks like you found your problem anyway, lube the cable and check the linkages at the carb and governor for any binding. On my Kohler the choke tab on the carb can interfer with the throttle if its tweaked up a little.
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How fast will it really go??
Originally posted by Canadian_Zuk View Post3100 RPM is way too low to fully shift out your clutches. The governors are adjustable and it doesn't take a rocket scientist to set them up properly, you just need a tachometer. Looks like you found your problem anyway, lube the cable and check the linkages at the carb and governor for any binding. On my Kohler the choke tab on the carb can interfer with the throttle if its tweaked up a little.
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