Modifications for a Conquest

[450hunter]

What modifications can I do to my 2000 Conquest to give it a little more power. I have a set of super tracks for it but the machine seems to be under powered when running them. I run in alot of swampy/tundra so the tracks would be nice if I could just get a little more power. Thanks

[Country]

I know you can have the driven clutch reset with a stouter spring and adjusted that would prob help.

[Roger S]

I would disassemble both clutches. The trans clutch spring is idexable, there's about 6 or 7 anchor holes for the spring's end. Set it in the #1 hole.

The engine clutch, examine the lead weights and their carriers for damage. If they're ok, weigh the lead pucks. Mine were right at 1 lb each. I lightened them by a 1/3 of an ounce each, and it raised the engine operating rpm significantly. The weights must be accurately weighed and material removed in a fashion so they are not off balance. Argo sells lighter weights but I'm not sure they're this light.

Another thing is, what transmission ratio do you have. The 2 letter code stamped on the top of it tells what overall gear ratio you're stuck with.

[Rock Doctor]

My Conquest is a 2004, I haul some pretty heavy loads, and I run Supertracks. I rolled over 500 hrs on my machine this Summer, and was not happy with my clutches performance so I bought a new set.
After installing the new clutches there was a noticable performance increase, but I wanted MORE. So, going back to my Snowmobile "Drag Racing" experience, I ripped the new clutches apart. Some simple modifications were in order:
I pulled the Primary apart and "Shimmed" the spring. I bent a piece of a 5/32 welding rod into a circle the same diamiter as the spring and installed it under the spring and re-assembled the clutch. This increases the spring pressure. Higher spring pressure in the primary will increase the RPM at which the clutch engages. (more power at clutch engagment, it's NO problem to turn, in high gear, loaded heavy, from a standing start now..........Do I dare say it.....More like an Avenger lol)
I pulled the Secondary apart and tightened the Secondary Spring (tighter anchor hole). This slows down the "upshift" of the clutch, keeping you at a lower gear ratio longer (slower acceleration, but more power, less bogging down especially in mud or muskeg)
These 2 mods also have the effect of increasing your rate of backshift. The primary wants to open faster and the Secondary wants to close faster. (when you let of the throttle, the machine will slowdown faster and the clutches will shift down to a lower gear ratio faster)
The overall effect was that I lost about 1 MPH top speed, I accelerate slower, I decelerate faster. I am better able to keep the power flowing without having to slow down as much to get my clutches to backshift. I can engine brake down hills that I had to "manually" brake down before.

I very rarely have to use low gear in my Conquest now

It's alot easier to re-assemble clutches with a little help from a friend, with the increased tension on the springs.

RD

[alaskacody]

faster

How hard is it to remove the two clutches ???????
do you some kind of spec tools can it be done with out removing the eng or trans

[Roger S]

They are both a slip fit with a square key, the bolt in the end holds them on. If they don't slide/tap off, use penetrating oil. The clutch on the trans, the right snap ring pliers are nice to have. If you're mechanically inclined, should be able to handle them. Like RD said, it's easier with some help on re assy, although I've never had help

[alaskacody]

thank you tomarrow i will tear in to it and look out nascar

[450hunter]

Ok, I pulled both my clutches off and made the mod's tonight. I shimed the driver clutch(engine) with a 5/32 welding rod like was mentioned. Then I took the driven clutch apart to move the spring end to anchor hole #1. I marked the pulley/belt side and the housing by the snap ring with a paint marker so I could watch what takes place. Well things slipped and I was not able to count how many turns the housing next to the snap ring turned. I placed the spring end in anchor hole #1 and then rotated the housing back around until my marks lined up along with the key slot. I had to rotate the housing between 1/2 and 3/4 of a turn to get everything lined back up. Does that sound about right or should it have been rotated more. It was a handful putting back together.

I would like to thank everybody for their help and response to my thread.

Rock Doctor,
Does your's run the tracks alot better set-up this way? Mine felt way under powered with the tracks on so I hope these mod's help with that problem. Mine wouldn't hardly take off in high with the tracks on it. I will try to take it out for a spin this weekend and see if I can tell a difference.

Roger S.,
The number on my trans is 28716 MU so what does that mean? It's a 2000 Coquest.

Thanks

[Roger S]

It is a wrestling match to put the driven clutch back together esp wound up tight. If your marks line up it's probably good, another turn wouldn't be possible.

What I did and what RD did to the engine clutch seems to have the same effect.

The older argo trannys (pre avenger/frontier)had 3 ratios, a

G lower
M higher
H (I think) highest

that's lowest geared, not lowest numerical ratio.

An argo guy who set up conquests for high altitude said the #1 hole in the trans clutch wasn't so important once the engine clutch was modified.

[Rock Doctor]

Sounds like you got it right.

These mods will help with the tracks, but it will NOT turn your Conquest into an Avenger.
I would suggest that you consider a set of Frontier tires as your next mod (if you havn't already). My guess is that you won't need your tracks as much with a set of these tires. They still cost you a little power but not as much as tracks and they are not as hard on rigging. Another option is to keep your Runamucks and just run half tracks (track the center 2 wheels on each side).
This works about 80% as good as full tracks, it's way easier to steer, and it's not nearly as hard on your rig (Brngs Chains, Axles, ect).

Another 2 bits

RD

[450hunter]

I drove my argo around in the driveway tonight a little bit. Low gear seems to have more power and high gear I'm not sure about yet. I tried to make a turn from a dead stop in high gear and it would not turn(slipped the belt)in my yard. I do not have my tracks on it right now just my tires and also that's a new belt on it also.

My tires are 22x12.5-9 Sand Vipers that I'm running right now. Also can you half track(middle 2 tires) a argo using super tracks. What size winch do ya'll have on your argo. My Sand Vipers are like brand new so buying Frontier tires is kinda out of the question right now. Thanks

[Rock Doctor]

I drove my argo around in the driveway tonight a little bit. Low gear seems to have more power and high gear I'm not sure about yet. I tried to make a turn from a dead stop in high gear and it would not turn(slipped the belt)in my yard. I do not have my tracks on it right now just my tires and also that's a new belt on it also.

My tires are 22x12.5-9 Sand Vipers that I'm running right now. Also can you half track(middle 2 tires) a argo using super tracks. What size winch do ya'll have on your argo. My Sand Vipers are like brand new so buying Frontier tires is kinda out of the question right now. Thanks

My Conquest was starting to do this as well, and that's part of the reason I bought new clutches (I could get the new clutches fast, but could NOT get the parts to re-build the old clutches in time for a trip I had planned). I have since recieved the parts to rebuild the old clutches, but not had time. I have not been able to make my belt slip like that since I installed the new clutches (with mods), so I take that to mean that one or both of the old clutches is worn and not moving freely as it should. I will be rebuilding them when I get time.

How many hours on these clutches?
Here is a thought: When mine slipped, like you describe, it was usually after I had made a quick stop (either braking, or bogging in mud). When this happens there is little or no time for the secondary clutch to "backshift". This effectively leaves you in a higher gear ratio and when you try to go again the Primary engages on a "loose belt" causing slip and squeal.
You mentioned that you reassembled your Secondary clutch with the spring mounted in anchor hole #1??. My clutches don't have the holes marked, but I was under the impression that hole #1 was the "lightest" setting.......I have my secondary spring mounted in the 2nd hole (tighter setting)

You could half track the Argo with Supertracks, I guess, but I have not seen it done (I have both super and standard tracks). Just have to watch the extra width.
I run a 4,200lb Rule Winch with the 50' spool (I wish I had the 100' spool). Most of the guys I know run between 3,300 and 4,200 lb winches, we also carry "snatch blocks" for extra pull if needed.

[450hunter]

The clutch on my engine is almost brand new. It has 10 hrs or less on it. I replaced the driver clutch and belt at the same time. My old clutch had a crack in it so I replaced it and the belt.

I did move the spring in the secondary clutch to hole #1 like someone else had mentioned. Should I take it back apart and move it to hole #2. My argo manual say put it in hole #3. This is my first argo so I'm not sure which hole makes it a tighter setting. How could I find out which hole is what(tighter/lightest)?

You said you run a 4,200lb Rule Winch? Who makes that winch? Also when my belt slipped the machine was cold. I had just started it up and had not driven it any to have let it warm up. Would that have anything to do with it slipping. Do you buy your parts from a argo dealer? Thanks

[Yooper]

I'm Wondering about the tracks on the center 2 tires. Could you use 22" runamucks on the tracks and 24" frontiers? Is there going to be enough room?
This would give you the added ground clearance. Im also thinking about using snowmachine tracks, they are fairly easy to come by up here and can be found in lengths up to 163 (should cover 2 tires).

[Rock Doctor]

I did move the spring in the secondary clutch to hole #1 like someone else had mentioned. Should I take it back apart and move it to hole #2. My argo manual say put it in hole #3. This is my first argo so I'm not sure which hole makes it a tighter setting. How could I find out which hole is what(tighter/lightest)?

You said you run a 4,200lb Rule Winch? Who makes that winch? Also when my belt slipped the machine was cold. I had just started it up and had not driven it any to have let it warm up. Would that have anything to do with it slipping. Do you buy your parts from a argo dealer? Thanks

Take it apart again, and just check it. You should be able to figure out which is tighter and looser. There will be a noticable differance when trying to re-assemble it. (I don't even remember how many holes are there)
Have a look at the 4,200lb winch on this site, THAT's the one you want, IMHO.
Comparison View for Winches > Rule - ITT

A cold belt DOES slip easier than a hot belt, but mine does not slip, cold or hot, anymore.
I do buy some parts from Argo, and others from whoever has them at the time.

I'm Wondering about the tracks on the center 2 tires. Could you use 22" runamucks on the tracks and 24" frontiers? Is there going to be enough room?
This would give you the added ground clearance. Im also thinking about using snowmachine tracks, they are fairly easy to come by up here and can be found in lengths up to 163 (should cover 2 tires).

I looked HARD at doing this. The clearance would be VERY tight, and you would get terrible rubbing between the track "paddles" (Snowmobile Track) and the tire next to it.(there is always a little "Track Slap" when running tracks). Even with Argo Tracks (No Paddles), I think you would see alot of contact between the Tracks and the tires next to them.
One last thing: With Frontiers on the corners and Runamucks/Tracks in the middle, The weight of the machine will sit on the 4 Frontiers. The Runamucks with tracks will still have a lower profile than the Frontiers. Running like that will play HELL with your ability to stear. On the other hand, All runamucks with the center 2 tracked, will give you a higher profile on the center which will increase your stearing ability.

My opinion, although some people don't think I should have an opinion:

RD