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Removing Brake Disc - 1999 Vanguard

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  • Removing Brake Disc - 1999 Vanguard

    I need to remove a brake disc. pulled the center bolt but it wont budge. Manual says if its stuck to use a "wheel puller" I have a gear puller which I think is the same. Grabbing it by the center teeth would likely break a tooth. Only other option is to grab is around the perimeter of the disc but I'm concerned about the pressure warping it.

    Any ideas? Kinda in a jam here.

  • #2
    I use a 3 jaw to pull the discs off my transmission. I hook the puller “claws” on the first row of the double 40 sprocket and go to town. Haven’t hurt anything yet...
    Last edited by great white; 05-26-2019, 06:57 PM.

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    • #3
      ordered a 3 jaw puller. thanks

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      • #4
        The brakes are unbolted, yes?
        sigpic

        My new beer holder spilled some on the trails - in it's hair and down it's throat.
        Joe Camel never does that.

        Advice is free, it's the application that costs.

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        • #5
          Yep!

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          • #6
            got a 6" 3 jaw puller, but cant keep jaws in the teeth as I tighten….*&$%# things keep slipping out!!!

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            • #7
              I use a very big pry bar behind the rotor. Have to get in against the shaft and space off seal area with flat steel. Puller is last effort as it will break teeth. Soak the shaft with some type of penetrating oil. I use 50:50 ATF and acetone. If you have help two pry bars is better.

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              • #8
                Originally posted by Jerry In Maine View Post
                got a 6" 3 jaw puller, but cant keep jaws in the teeth as I tighten….*&$%# things keep slipping out!!!
                I use a rubber band around the jaws to hold them in place until I get enough tension on the screw to keep them there.

                Like I said, never broke a tooth on mine and it’s very likely they’ve been there since ‘86.

                But you have to get a “feel” for the tension you have on the tool or you could very well break off a tooth with a very seized gear. I also do my best to make sure the puller claw is in the valley of the gear so it’s grabbing the gear base circle, not the teeth tips.

                Soak it in penetrating oil for a couple days and occationally give the puller center bolt a “rap” with a hammer if it still doesnt want to come. Sometimes a rap with a brass drift on the center of the gear can help as well. It’s about adding a small “shock” to try and help break the “rust bond”.

                Last resort is heat via torch as you run the risk of cooking the shaft seals. I have heard of guys doing a few hard stops to expand the rotors and then pulling them, although I’ve personally never tried that...

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                • #9
                  I think I'll have to pull the transmission...trying to get access to the idler shaft bearings under the rotors. Set screws are stripped - only way I know to get bearing off is to grind them out. no room with the rotors in the way.

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by Jerry In Maine View Post
                    I think I'll have to pull the transmission...trying to get access to the idler shaft bearings under the rotors. Set screws are stripped - only way I know to get bearing off is to grind them out. no room with the rotors in the way.
                    If it’s anything like my 86, the rotors won’t clear the idler gear anyways unless you crank the adjusters all the way up, so removing the transmission is not a bad idea if you need access underneath it. Not much to it: two long mount bolts, brake calipers and the drive belt then out she comes...

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                    • #11
                      yes, thank you...learning as I go.

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                      • #12
                        You may have to cut head off one mount bolt to get it to clear rotors. I have also cut a rotor off even with the sprocket to get a Big year puller behind the hub. That one had keys balled up inside.

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