How much!!!,,$50 bucks for a axle Bearing,,,

[m350]

I knew the time was coming to get into the Belly of the BigFoot,,,the other day my son was running it around the yard,,,could hear something clunking as it drove past,,,so I jacked it up today,,started on the right side center wheel/axle, thanks to "Rock Doctor" I just watched his video this am,,,to get prepared for this job,,,,found/pulled the 2 chains master link,,had the wheel off,,,spun the axel,,does not seem bad,,,but did clunk as it spun,,,removed the thrust bolt, bearing and gear set screws,,the 4 retainer bolt nuts,,,had to whack it good (bolt threaded into the axle end) with a 3 pound hammer,,then it all came loose,,, bearing seemed alittle growly when spun,,,,pulled the rest down, to get a bearing # 1030 1-1/4 GFS is what I find on the bearing,,,no numbers on the 2 different seals.

So I make my list,,,thinking they (ARGO) prob get $10 apice or so,,,they said $ 50 and change for each one,,,,,I almost dropped the phone!!! The guy says if the axel has groves from the bearing wearing on it,,,the new bearing will only last one yr !,,,OK so I ask how much for an axle,,,,he say,,,ummmm $60 bucks,,,,so you want $60 for an axel,,,and $50 for 1-one bearing,,,,I will look around here,,,thank you,,,but I do need the cork gasket,,ok 10 of them at $1.23 each,,and now the seal,,,NOPE,,, he says we dont stock them,,,they allways get wasted when trying to install them,,,so we sell the bearing end cap with seals and grease fitting already installed,,,,,OK, how much,,,,$33 bucks !

Man last time I ordered parts from here they were reasonable,,,,,But DAMN man !

Anybody got any seal #'s???,,,,I have a good bearing and seal,,, place going there in the am to find out how much it will cost me.
sorry for the long novel,,Just had to share,,,,,Later,,,,,,Mark

[Roger S]

Changing seals is no big deal, they are common sizes at the brg supply. If you're using a grooved axle, you can buy seals with "garter" springs, ie a normal oil seal.

[spits]

If you take the bearing, seal ,housing and axle to a good bearing dealer, they can take your measurements( of the parts I mean) and match up bearings and seals by cross reference or maybe someone on the site has the numbers. I used Offshore bearings that actually take grease better than the originals.I used a grease needle for u-joints and packed the bearings really full before I installed them.I don't see how the bearings can get grease after they are in. I also used double lip CR seals, 6 were 45 bucks, the bearings were from TSC at 11 bucks a pop(on sale). The reason for the cheaper bearing was I don't know how long the expensive ones last as compared to the cheapies and that's what I could afford at the time. If your axles are worn ,there supposidly(?) have sleeves for refits. I made new axles out of 1 1/4 ground shafting.

[m350]

Well today I went to the Bearing supply, they only had 3 bearings, at $27 each,,I was able to get 2 sets of seals, at $4 each, one of the seals was a bit thicker,,,but seemed to seat in place just fine,,still waiting on the cork gaskets from Argo.

I noticed the Idler shaft,(is driven from the trans chains) was rather floppy,,bearing under the Battery looked bad,,,,out came the battery and Box,,,removed the Idler chain from the trans,(right side) then removed the 8-nuts and locks holding the Idler shaft in place,,out came the shaft,,the bearing was dry and loose,,had not had grease in a long time.

Threw the chains and shaft in a container with some gas cleaned all the goo off of them,,,Had to use a press to remove the old bearing,,,alittle emery cloth, cleaned the shaft,,,new bearing slid right on,,tighten the set screws,,the idler shaft is back in place now,,,much tighter then it was this am when I started. Now trying to find 5 more bearings abit cheaper would be great. Later,,,,,,Mark

PS,,,Man in the Belly of these Beast's is one Dirty, Greasy, and yes somewhat Bloody(oopps,,, as the wrench slipped,,and I sprung a leak) place to play,,,LOL

[Roger S]

Is good to get in there and get to the bottom of things. Otherwise we're like rock doctor's riding buddies, whose idler shaft bearings shell out on the trail and he has to fix it.

[Rock Doctor]

Glad you liked the vid

Parts from Argo can be really "out to lunch" sometimes, but it sounds like you have found a better place to buy. As for the Cork Gaskets, they are super easy to make, if you can get your hands on a "Bulk Roll" of Cork. Just trace them out and cut with scissors and a leather punch.

If I might make one suggestion?
Take a real good look at the other "Idler Shaft" brngs. I would be tempted to change them, just to be on the safe side. It's much easier to do it in your shop, than it is over a stump


RD

[Rock Doctor]

Is good to get in there and get to the bottom of things. Otherwise we're like rock doctor's riding buddies, whose idler shaft bearings shell out on the trail and he has to fix it.

His new Avenger is working out better for him, but he got stuck 3 times on Wednesday, and I pushed him out each time and drove right through behind him lol

RD

[m350]

So true Roger,,,Man RD,,,,Dead on with the other Idler Shaft,,I allready gave it a look and a wiggle,,,,Hmmmm some movement,,not as bad ass other side,,,but Going in Deep on the left side next ! Well after I get the right side axles back in,,,Gotta get something back together first,,,lol

Man If only I knew more about this thing,,,,,I mean I had the tubs split apart, engine and trans out last year rebuilding the tranny,,,,that would of been the time to do the Idler Bearings,,,and axel bearings too!

Also,,,I see some grooves on the axels from what looks like the seals,,,anybody have any luck with "Speedy Sleeves" to slip on the axles,,,,or some other fix to save the seals??

[jerseybigfoot]

Also,,,I see some grooves on the axels from what looks like the seals,,,anybody have any luck with "Speedy Sleeves" to slip on the axles,,,,or some other fix to save the seals??

Speedy sleeves will work but are not easy to install due the the length of the axle. You should make a sleeve installation tool. Prep for using the sleeve is important.
Some grooving can be tolerated by the replacement seal as long as the surface is smooth.

[m350]

OK, Thanks "jerseybigfoot",I was wondering about putting a "speedy sleeve" on that far down an axle,,,,, I did take some emery cloth to the grooved spot on the axles,,smoothed it up nicely,,just grooves now,,maybe a few thous deep. Thanks for all the info Guys !!

Rock Doctor,,,Any video of the Avenger getting stuck and you pushing him out,,,?? ,,,,,,,,Mark

[philipatmaxfour]

Bigfoot grooved axles

So true Roger,,,Man RD,,,,Dead on with the other Idler Shaft,,I allready gave it a look and a wiggle,,,,Hmmmm some movement,,not as bad ass other side,,,but Going in Deep on the left side next ! Well after I get the right side axles back in,,,Gotta get something back together first,,,lol

Man If only I knew more about this thing,,,,,I mean I had the tubs split apart, engine and trans out last year rebuilding the tranny,,,,that would of been the time to do the Idler Bearings,,,and axel bearings too!

Also,,,I see some grooves on the axels from what looks like the seals,,,anybody have any luck with "Speedy Sleeves" to slip on the axles,,,,or some other fix to save the seals??

If you have the axle out and it is grooved, you could spring for a brand new axle and keep the grooved one for when you need a "good as new axle" that goes in a different position on the machine. The front axle wear spot is way different than the other axles that don't have the axle extensions.
My Avenger has extensions front and rear but not in the middle.

Rock Doctor....The"pushing out the Avenger and then driving right through" story really hurts.HaHa

[Rock Doctor]

Rock Doctor....The"pushing out the Avenger and then driving right through" story really hurts.HaHa

The secret, in this particular case, was to pack a heavier load. When he started to float up in the thick, soupy stuff, I was still firmly anchored to the bottom

He had a few Wobblies in him as well LOL.

RD

[m350]

Ok, well we got the BigFoot back in Business yesterday,,At this time we just changed the right side outer Idler shaft Bearing(inner was fine) and the middle and rear right axle bearings and seals. I am thinking the clunking we heard before was from the dry/bad Idler shaft bearing.(No more clunking)

I didnt think the axle bearings were that bad,,,but after replacing 2 of them,,, and now I see no wiggle at all in the new ones,,,,I have more to do for sure,,,with the economy the way it is,,,,,,I just cant fork over the extra $$$ at this moment,,,I will definatly be watching/listening for other issue, and will pickup more bearings/seals when I can,,I now have enough cork gasket to do them all,,,oh and my son noticed,,,a missing nylon button/slider on the driven clutch when we were in there,,,guess I need to call Argo again today,,,plus I think I will pickup a couple chain repair links just to have them,,,
# 50 double,, and a # 60 single.

[Rock Doctor]

,,oh and my son noticed,,,a missing nylon button/slider on the driven clutch when we were in there,,,guess I need to call Argo again today,,,plus I think I will pickup a couple chain repair links just to have them,,,
# 50 double,, and a # 60 single.

Give your son a pat on the back, and don't run the Argo without replacing that slider button. Very cheap to replace, but very important. Also, you should replace all of them, to keep the wear even.

My "humble" 2 bits worth

RD

[m350]

Yes RD,, was thinking,,,Hmmm prob should'nt drive it much with that slider/button missing,,,3 new ones on the way ,(if they found them),,with the chain master links.

I also relaced the 30 amp fuse holder yesterday for the charging circut,,,it helped,,but only gets to 13 volts,,,maybe just a tad more on the volt meter, with engine reved up some,,,was hoping for 14 volts or so,,, The old fuse was rather melted, from the heat.