Cage / Rollbar ?

[GREASEMONKEY]

I'm getting ready to fabricate some sort of protection for my bigfoot. I would appreciate any pics, or ideas for good anchoring locations. I do use my top in the winter & ride the wife & both kids. Keeping that in mind, I don't want to loose functionality of the top or rear seat! Yes I do know argo offers the rollbar, but you loose the rear seat / or the ROPS but it looks heavy. I'm a big boy & tote lots of gear!

[Mike]

Jeff, that's one of the first things that caught my eye when I saw a picture of the Argo ROPS. It looked way too beefy for recreational use. I don't know enough about Argos to give any suggestions about building the roll cage but you can probably get some good ideas from the gallery. Several people have roll cages for Max's and Attex's that you could incorporate parts of into your Argo cage.

I think you really have two good ways to tie into something. Either tie directly into the frame somewhere (I don't know if this is possible with your Argo) or you can create a "bumper" out of angle iron around the outside of the machine wherever you want to tie into and weld to that.

I really haven't seen a lot of argos with roll cages but maybe someone will chime in with some good advice for you.

If you do build one be sure to take lots of pictures

[Rock Doctor]

I don't have a rollbar, but if I was to do it, I would mount it to my rack. A friend has a similar setup to mine, and what he did was, sink some threaded fittings into the rack and weld in place, Works good and is very strong.
You could also tie it in to a front bumper, like mine. The rack fits around my top, so mounting a rollbar to it would not interfier.

[Mike]

Rock Doctor, that's how I tied my roll cage in to my Max. I made a full bumper like yours around the entire Max and then welded the cage to that. I ground down the welds and painted the bumper red so in the pictures it is hard to see but here is a picture of it off the Max.



Here it is painted and on the Max (click for the big picture)

[Rock Doctor]

Looks good Mike,
The front bumper on my Argo is the only one I've built where I left the welds unground. Part of that was because I was in a hurry, and also because I wanted something different. Turned out that I liked it, so it stayed.

[GREASEMONKEY]

Mike,
I like the idea you used on the max. I can do roughly the same on the argo. The argo has a 2pc body that's riveted. I can build a bumper & sandwich it between the upper & lower halves, then bolt it together for ridgidity! Thanks guys. I did look through the pics & see tons of ways to do it. I think this will work best for me. What size tube did you use?

[Mike]

Doc, I like the way that yours looks. Your welds are even and nice. My welds were a different story though

And Jeff, I have mine sitting on top of the upper body instead of being sandwiched between the two halfs. I didn't know if you thought it was between the two since you really can't tell in the pics or if that's just the way that you are going to do it. As for the pipe, I am drawing a blank on the diameter momentarily. It's poop pipe. I'm sure you can get it from lowes or home depot in 10' lengths.

[Rock Doctor]

Hey Jeff, I would not try to tell you what to do, but I'm with Mike on this one, I would not split the tub, the bumper looks much better mounted on top of the splitline, and is plenty strong just bolted through with washers to back it up.

[GREASEMONKEY]

I was actually planning on using some T-bar that I have. It will fit nicely between the 2 halves! I'm gonna end up splitting the tub to do a little maintainance. The frame is pretty rusty & in desperate need of a fresh powder coat! The first owner never even got an hr on it, but left it out in the weather for 2 monthes. The tub filled to about 8in deep. The second owner replaced the chains & bearings, then added the windshield, top, and winch. He then passed from cancer, only got15-20hrs on it. Time has done a number on the frame. If I fix it now I will never have to worry about it again. While the frame & drive train is out I'm adding hoses to fit my evacuator pump. Make an oil change easy!

[Rock Doctor]

If you are going to that trouble, you might want to consider installing "Remote Grease Lines" to your front inner bearings. The grease nipples can be removed from your bearing housings and stainless 1/4" tubing can be run to a more accesible point.
It is so much easier than trying to get your hands through all the crap to access grease points.

[GREASEMONKEY]

I already have a grease buddy & the lines sitting in the bottom of my toolbox! Thanks for the heads up though!!!
I'm a Mechanic by trade. My job requires me to work on all types of cars, trucks, and equipment. I've picked up lots of information & tricks of the trade that are verry usefull on aatv's.

[Rock Doctor]

I'm a Mechanic by trade

Me too, but I work in the gas ind. I work mostly on Gas Turbines, Natural Gas Engines, Compressors, Pumps, ect.

Maybe we should see if Mike would add a Tips & Tricks section to the site

[GREASEMONKEY]

I think that would be good for the site!

I work for local Gov. 8yrs now. Been in the business for 14. I work on everything from weed eaters to excavators. My specialty is Police & Fire. I'll leave all the natural gass engines for you!!! I had to rebuild the PD generator =LP gas, drove me nutz! I'm the poor soul that takes all the new vehicles, and adds all the lights & equipment. Best part of my job is test driving the new police Hemmi Chargers!

[Mike]

We can always use more tips and tricks. We do have a section for those up at the top called "Articles" for the more in-depth how-to's. Feel free to post some anytime.

[GREASEMONKEY]

I'll try to remember that & take pics next time I do a little work!