throttle lock and idle

[JohnF]

I found out the other morning that the conquest likes to be warmed up before going to work. It was in the teens. I tried to come up with a cheap throttle lock to set a high idle for the warmup. I know Roger uses rubber bands somehow but I couldn't get them to work. I tried two of the common wide variety. Any ideas of any sorts? I have an alternator and think it could be handy for this purpose too.

By the way, I set the idle by ear, sorta where the engine sounds like it is putt'n happy, but I probably should hook up the tach and check it. Where should it be set?

I guess while I'm in the questioning mood...

When the engine starts cold it is pretty clatter(y). I imagine contraction has added some clearance in places and cold oil is slower to move about. I'm hoping this is a normal thing. Or at minimum an "adjust the lifters" or "change to a lower viscosity oil" kind of thing.

[Roger S]

I use rubber o rings, but the throttle return spring has to be very light. I have a couple idle solonoids off of old cars, I think they would work. You coud have a switch on the dash. One thing recently revealed on the forum is that the reverse idler gear in the argo trans doesn't get lubed unless vehicle is moving. So I probably won't do any more
fast warm ups in nuetral. It's always something.

[jeffrocuz]

Best advice ever

Just move to a warmer climate!!!!LOL I need a riding buddy in Alabama!!!!

[JohnF]

I use rubber o rings, but the throttle return spring has to be very light.

O-ring. Ahh. It would take quite a bit to counter my return spring - that was definately the issue.

I have a couple idle solonoids off of old cars, I think they would work.

That is an interesting idea. A bit higher tech than an o-ring but you get to calibrate a constant high idle this way. Just high enough that the alternator is putting out is what I would choose.

One thing recently revealed on the forum is that the reverse idler gear in the argo trans doesn't get lubed unless vehicle is moving.

Thanks for the heads-up. I checked out the parts diagram and searched down the posts in the forum. Apparently these machines are meant to be on the move. I wonder if the additive (lucas I think I read) or the needle bearing conversion alleviate the problem?

So I probably won't do any more fast warm ups in nuetral. It's always something.

You're not kidding. Kind of a rock and a hard place though. I imagine it is better on the engine to be warmed up - high idle puts higher rpm on the idler bushing for a shorter time - low idle less rpm longer time. And dang if I don't just leave it sitting at idle sometimes anyway. (Now I'm gonna be paranoid...)

Jeffrocuz - warmer climates are a whole different set of issues. Not so much for the argo but for me...

[Roger S]

Maybe we could let the machine roll a few yards in low range to oil reverse, then let it fast idle a little. Also, why not cover up the air intake and outlet vents.. starve the engine fans of the cold air.

[Rock Doctor]

I just hook a bungee strap to my throttle, and stretch it back to hook it behind the seat. This also pulls the brake for that side, but that's fine. Easiest way to do it is hook the bungee behind the seat, then pull the right brake back and hold the throttle open just a bit. Then hook the other end of the bungee to the throttle, holding the throttle in the slightly open position. It only takes a second to rig up, and can be used to warm up, or to help charge the battery when needed.

[JohnF]

Maybe we could let the machine roll a few yards in low range to oil reverse, then let it fast idle a little. Also, why not cover up the air intake and outlet vents.. starve the engine fans of the cold air.

I think rolling it under power early is a great idea if the machine has been sitting for awhile - and I assume you mean to do this going easy on the yet to warm up engine.

I suppose a blanket or tarp over the hood might help. Air cooled airplane folks use this trick too.

I just hook a bungee strap to my throttle, ...

Progressively larger rubber bands...