member evil8x8 has the same machine, and i had one for a while. drain and replace the trany fluid before you run it... that kohler 17 will run great, but eats spark plugs like no 4 stroke i've ever met. if the chain tensioners are maxed out you will need to replace chain. the chains from the trany to the jackshaft are double 40, and the rest are double 50. the sprockets are pinned to the axles with roll pins. you will want to carry extras, along with a hammer and punch to drive them out and new ones in.
good luck and keep us posted
do the sprockets have to be attached to axle with roll pins?or can i guy use bolts?
Nice Machine!!! Lot's of fun to work on them... I may have some plastic floor pans for ya if you need some. I am in Ontario as well. PM or email if your intrested.
I know we have used them on machine at Busco before. When those pins snap it will not pull good. You may want to consider a axle upgrade while you are at it. Splined axles and sprockets would bring that machine into the 90"s. I am not so familiar with you bearing configuration but before i bought old style material i would consider the newer upgraded axles. Just a thought. New up to date axles are not all that bad as far as price.
Life should not be a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in an attractive and well-preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways , cigar in one hand, whiskey in the other, body thoroughly used up, totally worn out and screaming "WOO-HOO, what a ride!!!"
thanks lewis,this is the first argo i have ever had anything to do with.took the motor out and now have all the chains removed.next step is to start pulling axles.upgrade sounds good as long as it dont cost a fortune.
I keyed the axles & sprockets on my 1984 argo, cost me $ 150.00 dollars for complete job. It was annoying having to unload everything in the back to replace the darn roll pins. I operated the machine with heavy loads in some tough conditions but never had an issue with the keyed axles. Best upgrade that I done on that machine. My new machine has splined axles & like Lewis said it might be worth checking out that option.
So curious about this because I am way tired of replacing roll pins. Even knicked a chain with a hammer driving in a pin in the field last fall and boy did I have trouble then. The chain of course broke and I had to walk for miles, and then get pulled up a hill to get back home. If you did keys, why wouldn't I add grade 5 bolts and then just drive it a bit on the careful side? The axle upgrade is hard for me to figure out. Not sure where to start.
The best thing I can recommend is to strip it down completely to the tub and power wash the hell out of it. The top body is pop riveted on if it's like my '85. If you haven't got a photographic memory take lots of digitals while your taking it apart. Mark the axles as to their placement and the sprockets to the axles cause the holes likely won't line up if you just throw it back together. You mentioned cracks in the body, get an old clothes iron that has the silk setting on it(extrememly hot) this beats the hell out of using a propane iron since you have no thermostate.
For cracks, use the front edge of the iron to trough out the crack on both edges and then smooth the over flow back into the gouge.
Give it a try and if your looking for more input I just spent approx. 200 hrs reworking a 85 8X8 so I may have a few suggestions to help out.
As you can tell I responded before looking at all your pictures. The only thing I could recommend is to paint your frame a lighter colour as the black tends to make everything hard to see when its barried in the engine compartment.
After 35 years of millwrighting we've finally got engineers convinced to do things so they're maintenance freindly.
Good luck1
"As you can tell I responded before looking at all your pictures"
no problemo my friend,been there done that lol.im at a bit of a stand still untill i decide whether or not to upgrade axles to splined type.guess i will tear the motor down and freshen it up a bit in the meantime.
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