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  • Rusted floor pan!

    Started my rebuild today! Only one problem so far. I cant remove the outer bearing set screw on the rear axles. I needed front outer bearing replaced but decided to do them all after I found the floor pan rusted threw at the weld in front of the hitch. I purchased HHK chain (He said a few of you guys were trying it out)from buffalo bearing to go all the way around and new bearings and seals also. My first project was complete (built a brushgaurd) so I decided to fix the rusted floor. That way I can sleep at night!
    Attached Files

  • #2
    Looks like you have a nice project going. You will probably want to soak the set screw in penetrating oil overnight and try it again. If that doesn't work then use a punch that fits down in the set screw and tap it with a hammer a few times to loosen the screw. You can also tap the collar. If that doesn't work you may want to try using a torch to heat the set screw / collar and then try it while it is hot. There are other options too like drilling the middle of the set screw a little but try the other ways first if you haven't already. Good luck.

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    • #3
      Thanks! I will soak it tonight. I wanted to ask one more question. I wanted to remove the frame and replace the floor pan with 1/8th inch steel and then get the whole frame sprayed with a truck bedliner spray(rhino liner). Has anyone tried this or is it a bad idea?

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      • #4
        i sandblasted my frame then painted it with chassis saver paint.its real tough stuff.

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        • #5
          I changed my floor pan to 1/8th. And was also contemplating the rhino lining idea.

          When mine goes back together I'm also going to replace the rivets between the top and bottom to 1/4" bolts.
          Last edited by Mike; 08-03-2010, 05:02 PM. Reason: merged two consecutive posts (you can edit your post)

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          • #6
            Bolting the tub is the way to go! Im taking the brushgaurd and frame in this week to be sprayed(rhino lined). I will cross my fingers and let you know if all goes well when all goes back together. I just received all my parts today from argo dealer so its time to get dirty.

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            • #7
              I gotta wonder about the 1/8" floor pan. One of the benefits of the smaller pan thickness used on the older machines is that it doesn't inhibit frame flex. The flexing frame on rough terrain helps keep as much surface areas of the tires on the ground as possible. Increasing the thickness of the pan will reduce flex and have a degree of impact on overall traction.

              If the goal is to toughen the undercarriage, adding a skid plate from the belly to behind the first axle will do the job just as well, and it won't take away from your rig's ability to get through the rough stuff.

              For what it's worth...

              Planter Bob

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              • #8
                I put the 1/8" pan on a 1990 magnum with good results. In my opinion less flex the better to keep everything in alignment. I know the even older stuff had plywood floors but then again they had 1" axles 50 /40x2 chain and no bearing seals. Too much flexing in a max or hustler leads to cracks. Scramblers were designed to flex and even had the axles cambered to compensate when there was a load in the vehicle. can't tell what the ODG guys had in mind but I think if you have a machine with an original steel floor, upping the thickness to 1/8 would be ok.
                Acta non verba

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                • #9
                  just a little info for anyone who works on these machines and needs a great great penetrating oil. its called aero kroil, its like 15 dollars a can but its amazing theyll give you ur money back if it wont loosen the screw. it really is great stuff.

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                  • #10
                    I removed all the axles except one. The last one attempted proved to be the hardest to remove. This one did not have a set screw but I could not get it out. One thumb nail busted so now it looks like my last option is cutting. I will give Johns suggestion a try tomorrow, then its off with it.
                    Attached Files

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                    • #11
                      The bearing cages on all the mid 80's Argos provide for axle movement as the frame flexes. Based on that, I'd have to say the Argos of this vintage like their frames to flex.

                      Originally posted by jerseybigfoot View Post
                      I put the 1/8" pan on a 1990 magnum with good results. In my opinion less flex the better to keep everything in alignment. I know the even older stuff had plywood floors but then again they had 1" axles 50 /40x2 chain and no bearing seals. Too much flexing in a max or hustler leads to cracks. Scramblers were designed to flex and even had the axles cambered to compensate when there was a load in the vehicle. can't tell what the ODG guys had in mind but I think if you have a machine with an original steel floor, upping the thickness to 1/8 would be ok.

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by Planter Bob View Post
                        The bearing cages on all the mid 80's Argos provide for axle movement as the frame flexes. Based on that, I'd have to say the Argos of this vintage like their frames to flex.
                        How much flex to you antisipate in bjmilo's 6x6 argo. Personally I think a couple of mm is not going to effect traction.
                        Acta non verba

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                        • #13
                          I can calculate the flex (twist) for a given torque knowing the dimensions and alloy of his original floor pan, assuming continuous weld points. A comparison of that result to that of .125" mild steel of the same dimension under the same torque would give us the exact percentage difference.

                          My rig is an 8x8, so I'm used to seeing quite a bit of flex. Of course, the 6x6 will have less overall flex between the centerlines of the front and rear axles compared to an 8x8 because the frame (and pan) is shorter.

                          Planter Bob

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                          • #14
                            I have everything apart now. The frame is in bad shape! Im going to have to take alot of time welding and sanding. I wanted to sand blast it first then fix the pan but alot of metal is bad on the front of the frame. Front tube is almost rusted through so not sure what the next step is. I will attach some pics to see what you guys think!
                            Attached Files

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                            • #15
                              Id start by removing the floor and confirming the rails are in usable shape. If the tube is rusted on the outside and holed, the inside of the tube may look as bad and need to be replaced. i repaired my magnum due to a severe dent in the tube by cutting out the bad section and replacing it. I forget if I used a piece of tubing or sch 10 pipe. The diameter was close enough to get a good weld. You may want to talk to odg to see if they have a repair to suggest, other than replacing the frame.

                              Planter Bob
                              I will get you the dimensions to my old 8x8 in the near future when i get the frame out of the tub.
                              Acta non verba

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