Inner bearing stuck on Bigfoot

[waylonh]

My outer bearings are blown, so i've starting a major rebuild. My sprockets are loose, but I can not get the inner bearings off any of the axles (i've tried the all three on the left side). Set screws are out. i've tried PB all day and cant get any of them to budge. Anbody think a bearing puller would work? Any other suggestions? I haven't tried heat, but that's my next venture, i guess.

[Slimpickin]

Probably heat to get them off. I'd take a hammer and break the outer race and remove the rollers if there are any left. Put a cloth over the race before you hit it to cut down on the flying debris.
I mix synthetic gear oil and grease about half and half and put it on the chains. I make sure it gets on all the shafts to, and next time the bearing and gears won't be seized. When I replace the outer bearings and seals I don't use the cork gaskets. I use silicone gasket maker, tighten them tight and let the silicone set up over night. I don't have any leaks.

Slim

[6X6]

An air hammer with a sharp chisel will work if you have or can get one. The Races are hardened and will break easy, just be sure you get the race and not the axle, but if you do, no biggie, just clean up the burr. Acetylene torch will do it for sure. FIRE GOOD!

[Paquette]

I'm always cautious about using a torch on an argo. Due to the fact that the hull is usually covered in grease and is made from extremely flamable poly plastic. I use a heat gun, it's normally used for removing paint and wall paper. If that doesn't work a side grinder on an air line and cut it off.

[Roger S]

Have you used a longer 3/8" bolt threaded into the axle, and hammered on that?

I used a MAP gas torch last time, after PB, I squirt the set screws full overnight. Doubled up a sheet of HD aluminum foil and cut a tight fitting hole to slide over the bearing collar to help keep heat off the bearing shield, and then extend the foil down onto the floor. My shields are metal anyway.. have never hurt them. I had the machine on stands and running, so the axle was spinning when I heated the collar.

Patience, lots of PB, some heat, more patience, a few long 3/8" bolts has always done it for me.

One guy posted about a freezing spray he shot up the axle bolt hole after heating the collar, to shrink the axle.

[ememechanic]

I'm with paquette, a heat gun on max and a puller will do the trick.

[lewis]

If you have a lot of patience. A drimel tool with a cutting blade will work, i know it takes time. But time is on your side. Most of the time you can save the axle if it is worth saving. A large grinder is to big to get into position. Once you are almost through tap the race and it will break so be safe and cover it with a rag....just in case, but it usually will just pop off. Then do the inner race. Repeat as needed. Upon re-installation, use a small amount (finger wipe) anti-seize before installing new bearing. This should help when removing bearing the next time.

Tip: For ease of getting to bearing and to help save you BACK, lift the machine on the opposite side to reduce the amount of bend. The more tilt the less back ache.

Best of luck!

[ve1sar]

I would make a puller or pusher to push the axle though the bearing from the inside. you will need a piece of plate 3/8 or 1/2 inch thick. The plate needs to be bigger than the bolt pattern of the inside bearing bolt pattern. Drill 4 holes the same as the bearing bolt pattern. also drill a center hole for 5/8 or 3/4 bolt. Weld a nut over hole the same size as the bolt. The bolt should be fine thread for more strengh. This is your choice or thread the plate. Bolt the plate over the end of the axle shaft to the frame the same as bolting the bearing in place. Use the center bolt to push the axle through the bearing. Make sure you have removed the outside bearing bolts from the body. Hope this idea helps in removing the axle shaft. Good luck, Paul

[waylonh]

one down 5 to go

after searching high and low, i found this. It was perfect. Tons of PBlaster, and lots of time and patience. No heat required, but I did have to stand on the breaker bar to get the first one off. I don't know how i'll do the front. oh well in case anyone is having the same problem the puller is from harbor freight item number 40965. Thanks for the suggestions!

[Rock Doctor]

That is exactly the same puller set that I have

I just helped a friend remove all his axles, and they were also VERY Stuck. I had to use a "Porta Power" Hydraulic Jack. (You can probably rent one fairly cheap) . I had to brace the jack across the bottom of the tub, One end of the jack against the inner frame on one side and the other end of the jack against the end of the axle I wanted out. Pressure up the jack (carefully), and when you get to the point where you are starting to fear breaking something.........Tap the Hub end of the axle you want out....................BANG.................Axle can now be removed.

Another thing for you to consider trying.......Iodine. I have not tryed it in this application, but I KNOW that it works to break free siezed Exhaust Manifold Bolts. It does take a fair bit of time though (Month). It does work.

Since we are on the topic, another GREAT Anti-Sieze product for HOT applications like Spark Plug Threads is "Milk of Magnesia". Do not shake the product, open and pour off the clear liquid. What you are left with is a white paste. Coat threaded parts with white paste. Install threaded parts. When it comes time to remove said parts, they will come out with ease.


RD

[Roger S]

Leave it to RD for something original..

Also, you could strike the end of the puller with tension on it..

[JoeMeg]

Since we are on the topic, another GREAT Anti-Sieze product for HOT applications like Spark Plug Threads is "Milk of Magnesia". Do not shake the product, open and pour off the clear liquid. What you are left with is a white paste. Coat threaded parts with white paste. Install threaded parts. When it comes time to remove said parts, they will come out with ease.


RD

We use something similar to this for a release compound when installing electric cartridge heaters into mold plates. I've been told it's nothing more than overpriced Milk of Magnesia. Joe.

[Mike]

I had to use a "Porta Power" Hydraulic Jack. (You can probably rent one fairly cheap) . I had to brace the jack across the bottom of the tub, One end of the jack against the inner frame on one side and the other end of the jack against the end of the axle I wanted out. Pressure up the jack (carefully), and when you get to the point where you are starting to fear breaking something....

I tried that same method on a Max IV to remove some stubborn axles and ended up bending the frame instead of pushing the axle out. I was watching the end of the jack go further out for a couple of pumps before I realized that the axle wasn't moving.

[Rock Doctor]

Yes, Mike
I noticed that happening a couple times on the one we just did. I ended up putting blocks between the inner and outer frame rails to help stiffen things up. That worked on the really stuborn ones.

I have also come across some very tight front axles, but fortunatly I was able to get one side out withut too much trouble. Then I had to slide a steel bar through that axle hole, under the engine, and beat the bad axle out from the opposite side.

Good Times


RD

[waylonh]

FYI

Just for future searching reference.................I broke 3 of the 4 gear pullers while standing on them to force the bearings out. So, I was down to my last one when it hit me. Instead of me standing on the last one, and risking breaking it, I tightened it down, and then hit it with the propane bottle. While under tension, I held the torch on the inner bearing until "POP!" It seems this is the only way to go. All bearings were rusted on to the axle, and heat with a puller is the ONLY way to go. I'll definately do the other side this way, and save my last puller for later projects.

This has turned into a two week project, (working a couple of hrs. per night) to get to this point. I think I can now get the other side done in a weekend. I would MOST DEFINATELY factor this into the cost of buying a used argo. I totally think this is major surgury on an argo.



Also, once the inner bearings released the axle I was able to see the the outer bearings were frozen to the axle. Also, worse than that the set screws were rusted frozen too. The fastest way to get this off was to whack it with a 2lb. hammer. The bearings shatterd like glass. Valuable knowledge right there.