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My spin on a bilge pump

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  • #16
    I do want to clarify, I only use the covered switches, or in the 6x6 an in-1 so the float cannot move too far up. I do know some separate and external switches, can travel far enough up that the float actually tries to come down the other way, and will stay on, and can also get debris under them and stay on.
    Also a switch not rated for GPH of the pump it's used on CAN weld on/fail. Would be like using a headlight relay as your starter solenoid.
    I use auto in the 6x6 cause by the time I see water I've taken on quite a bit more than a few inches. Yes, I use a marine swith (scavenged from old boat) and as I had said, I do only put it in auto when swimming.
    I have a pump indicator light on the boat that says when the switch is on, auto or manually. And I guess it's not a bad idea for an anphib either, dead battery OR pump isn't a good thing

    EDIT: Beeman- Rule makes floatless water sensing pumps. They also shut off before any oil on the surface is sucked in, even if you filled it up with oil it would not switch on. I have never used those pumps, but I do use Rule pumps. If I kill the Attwood I have now in the Wolf, it would be replaced with a Rule.
    Attex 295 Wild Wolf: sigpic My Runner
    Attex 252? Colt? Racer 80%: My Racer to be..... SOMEDAY
    Attex Super Chief - Sold.

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    • #17
      I installed a 1000gph pump in mine. I still had trouble with the chains throwing water up on the belt. I bought a small pump from Princess Auto, that fit right up in the top left cornor in by the chain. It sucks the water out so now it doesn't affect the belt. I left the the big pump in in case I get a large amount of water for some unknown reason(lol). Most times I just flick on the little pump till till it runs dry.
      Slim
      Slimpickin

      You can follow but it's going to hurt

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      • #18
        I see you(waylonh) mentioned " I screwd it into the floorpan",,,,Hope that does'nt become a leaks source in the future !!,,I used Roger's (maybe others too) idea of using bigger hose clamps,,,one around the bilge pump,,,and one around a crossmemer,,,,holds the pump securly,,with No screw holes in the floor !

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        • #19
          Originally posted by Rock Doctor View Post
          Couple things:
          How do you guys keep the pump suction from plugging up with trash? Jamming up the impellor, ect?
          Usually by the time I get to where I'm going, there is so much crap in the bottom of my Argo that A pump would never work. Pinecones, leaves, sticks, muskeg, spiders/caterpillars, sand, dog hair,ect.
          Also, I've had the "Float Switches" stick in the on position when traveling down rough roads. If they continually tap on and off, they can ARC and actually weld themselves in the on position. Ariving at your destination with a dead battery really sucks. Of course, if you have them turned OFF it will not happen, but you have to remember to turn them off. Having them hooked to the key is a good idea, but then if you are riding down a rough trail, you can
          have the same thing happen. Just something to keep in mind


          I plan to build a small cube around my pump and cover it with screen to strain the water.

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          • #20
            Originally posted by Rock Doctor View Post
            Don't quote me on this, but I think it was an "Attwood" that arced on me. I use Rule Pumps now, although I don't have any pumps with Float Switches anymore (Either in my boats or Argo's).
            Yep had my best luck with Ruhle or Rule,its tuff to keep them clean enough to work like Doc said but still got one,as far as my boat I got a pair of them one on float switch one manual,damn near replace the float switch every year but the boat is docked at a marina all summer and we dont get down for a few days and want the safety of a float switch, irregardless what you use maintenance is key so check it on a regular basis.N.C.T

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            • #21
              As for a switch I found one a canadian tire for 19.00. It is a marine bilge switch with a toggle for manual or auto and has seperate led's to show if either is on . I hooked mine up to run off the key so no dead batteries. the manual side is for my bilge and the auto side I ran to my fog lights , so no need for extra clutter on the dash. Plus the switch looks pretty nice. Here is a pic

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              • #22
                You guys just answered my question thanks a million

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                • #23
                  ?
                  Last edited by Hulk; 04-14-2012, 11:30 AM.

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                  • #24
                    Are you saying to screw it down to the metal skid plate? if you are what size screw do you use I don't want to go through the hull.I was just wondering if I could glue a big enough magnet to the bottom of the bilge to secure it in place.

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                    • #25
                      I am adding a bilge pump this afternoon to my conquest 8x8. I have the factory kit. It includes the pump and all the hardware and instructions to put it in. It is kinda pricy, but I wont have to make any "L" mounting bracket. Just bolt it right in.

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