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Bolts Replacing Pins and Sprocket Interference...UGH.

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  • Bolts Replacing Pins and Sprocket Interference...UGH.

    Okay....so I went ahead and replaced my axle sprocket Spirol pins with Holo-Krome 1 3/4" shoulder x 5/16" diameter shoulder bolts (Part #08030).

    The problem is every bolt head (and nut) interferes with the side of the sprocket. The factory holes are drilled right next to the sprocket face at nearly all locations, and with pins that wasn't such a big deal, but with bolts it sure is.

    The only solution I see is to grind one side of the bolt head flat, and forego the nuts and drill a hole through each bolt and install a cotter pin to hold it in place. In essence, I'm creating a dowel pin.

    Anyone have any better solution for this one?

    Thanks guys,

    Planter Bob

  • #2
    I have a similar issue on my Hustler 980. The original equipment (from what I can tell) was an allen head (socket head) shoulder bolt, and a regular hex nut on one end. You could still hold the nut with a wrench while tightening the allen-head bolt. They seemed to work quite well...
    sigpic

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    • #3
      The shoulder bolts I have are socket head, but even the head doesn't have room against the sprocket face. A nut is totally out of the question. The edge of the hole is flush with the gear face.

      I'm thinking of just selling my $2 bolts on eBay, and going with the hardest Spirol pin I can find. I really don't want to go with the cotter key approach.

      Planter Bob

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      • #4
        Upgrade to the Avenger axles and sprockets and eliminate all those problems. Used Argo axles will work. PlottHound did his and from what i understand is extremely happy. He also had a older machine. I cost a few bucks but now he has a very dependable machine. The Avengers have 1.25 axles.

        Lewis
        Life should not be a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in an attractive and well-preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways , cigar in one hand, whiskey in the other, body thoroughly used up, totally worn out and screaming "WOO-HOO, what a ride!!!"

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        • #5
          That's pretty much what I'm feeling at this point. The reliability of the Spirol pins is not there with tracks, and these Holo-Krome bolts are a very disappointing solution. I've just blown $55 on something that is a patch job at best.

          I can't imagine what Avenger axles and sprockets would cost...somewhere between "Ain't no way!" and "You gotta be kiddin' me!" I imagine.

          Before I go that route, I'm going with a harder Spirol rolled pin and see if that works. I'm selling the remainder of my Holo-Krome. Beautiful bolts, just crappy for what I'm trying to do here.

          Planter Bob

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          • #6
            yupper,lewis steered me in the right direction.i upgraded all my axles and sprockets to the splined type.only huge expence was my front axles,they were longer then the others so i had to get them made at a machine shop.no pins or bolts to screw with,and all the new stuff bolted up perfectly to my older argo.

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            • #7
              Originally posted by Planter Bob View Post
              That's pretty much what I'm feeling at this point. The reliability of the Spirol pins is not there with tracks, and these Holo-Krome bolts are a very disappointing solution. I've just blown $55 on something that is a patch job at best.

              I can't imagine what Avenger axles and sprockets would cost...somewhere between "Ain't no way!" and "You gotta be kiddin' me!" I imagine.

              Before I go that route, I'm going with a harder Spirol rolled pin and see if that works. I'm selling the remainder of my Holo-Krome. Beautiful bolts, just crappy for what I'm trying to do here.

              Planter Bob
              You can get coil pins at WW graingers.com I bought some,you can get them in many lengths, and also in different rockwell hardness. They come in bulk packages too( like up to 24 count). I've had them on my argo for a couple years and never had a problem,and my 6 wheeler weighs 2400 pounds loaded. Before i found these I tried the hardened bolts and had a few snap.Look at graingers for coil pins or maybe spirol coil pins. Hope this helps....... Doc P.S. I looked them up on WW Graingers, they call them spring coil pins. They have regular duty at 8700lb. shear and Heavy duty at 12000lb. shear
              Last edited by doccerny; 07-23-2011, 05:29 AM.

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              • #8
                Waaaait! What if you just drilled new holes in a more convenient location???? Would that work at all???? Just a thought...
                Alaska floating atvs group on face book. Fixing help and trail rides!!!!!


                https://www.facebook.com/groups/alaska.AATVs/



                85ish Argo 8x8 geo metro engine, hdi axles and 3 bearings per axle.

                78 ford bronco... 460 lockers.... "Alaskan tow vehicle"

                ATV = Alaska Terain Vehicle

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                • #9
                  I may be way off base here but I believe the pins are close to the sprockets to eliminate some of the torque on the pins. AM I way off here or is just a dumb theory?

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                  • #10
                    Can you turn down the head of the allen bolt in a lathe to make it smaller? Can you cut a small hole sideways thru the sprocket right where the head and nut come thru.? Roll pins or spring pins are just hardened spring steel curved in a circle but they make them curved into a spiral almost like a solid pin and much stronger. Then there is a tapered pin with threads on the small end to pull it into the tapered hole you make with the special reamer. All avail. at McMasters

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by chris davison View Post
                      Can you turn down the head of the allen bolt in a lathe to make it smaller? Can you cut a small hole sideways thru the sprocket right where the head and nut come thru.? Roll pins or spring pins are just hardened spring steel curved in a circle but they make them curved into a spiral almost like a solid pin and much stronger. Then there is a tapered pin with threads on the small end to pull it into the tapered hole you make with the special reamer. All avail. at McMasters
                      I know a guy on this site that upgrade the shear pins to the next larger size with great results. I believe 3/8 was the size and I believe Grainer is where they came from.

                      Newf.

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                      • #12
                        Grind of one side of the head and drill a hole in the other end. Use grade eight bolts or better if possible. Never had problems again with the ones I've seen. Make sure you put in both bolts in the sprocket, not just one.

                        Slim
                        Slimpickin

                        You can follow but it's going to hurt

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                        • #13
                          ^^^ bingo, its not really a big deal all i do is use a hex head cap(allen key head) grind down one side of the head so its flush with bolt body then drill a tiny hole in the end and put in a tiny hitch pin to hold it in, it really works great
                          '99 Conquest 104hp turbocharged intercooled EFI Chevy Sprint conversion
                          "Argo 8x8's only" type of guy
                          "old school Argo expert"

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                          • #14
                            if your spiral pins walk out of the tube when you ride, run a safety wire through the hole in the pin center and wrap it around the hub a few times before you twist the two wire ends together. if the pin is fracturing than the sprocket tube pin hole is too loose. Just redrill the tube in a different place or weld up and redrill the hole. I have also used split spring pins and driven smaller spring pins in the bore of the larger spring pins after it is in place.
                            Acta non verba

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                            • #15
                              Could you put a smaller roll pin into the existing roll pin to strengthen it ? Wilf

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