Well, I Bought One...

[clevernickname]

well, it seems a retraction is in order...I dont know if they saw my post or he just had a change of heart, but mike at richards relics called me this morning and told me he had obtained the correct flanges, and that odg had mis-packaged the ones he sent me, so he put the correct flanges in the mail this morning, free of charge, considering I had already paid for the wrong ones. So they made it right, and Ive gotta say im kinda surprised, as it seems to be out of character for them. Anyways, Im glad they made it right, I just wish I didnt have to rant and rave to get them.

As far as progress goes, I know Ive been really stingy on pictures, but maybe Ill have some time this weekend to post some. Saturday, Ive got all day (minus fixing the pump on my washing machine) to get some work done on the argo. Motor will be bolted in, wired and started for sure, but still need to get a clutch and belt. Im also going to get my seat frame, rear rack, and roll cage/top powder coated the next time we send out a bunch of black at work , as I can get that done for just the cost of powder. I can finally get my last axle installed after my flanges get here, and line up the right side sprockets and put the chain on. 2 more weeks and it should be moving under its own power whoo hoo! I dont suppose anyone has a stock wheel lying around? I still need one...

[spankbomb]

Just a side note here. Richard's Relics is not listed as an authorized dealer on Argo's website so it seems highly unlikely he purchased directly from ODG. More than likely he is purchasing aged/obsolete parts inventory from existing Argo dealers. If purchasing parts second, third or fourth hand it becomes highly more likely they can become damaged, mis-packaged and/or incomplete. This is the second instance I have heard in the last two months of someone receiving incorrect/incomplete parts from this company, which does not appear to be an authorized Argo dealer. Caveat emptor.

[clevernickname]

good to know. Although the flanges he sent me (although wrong) were in new condition, so Im hopeful that the new correct ones are in that shape as well.

[clevernickname]

well, mike at richards relics was as good as his word, the correct flanges came in the mail today. On another note, I was having a hard time with sprocket alignment, and finally narrowed it down to the double sprockets on the rotors were too far to the outside of the machine. So I set about removing them....or should I say, attempting to remove them. I got the right side rotor off pretty easy, but the driven clutch is being a bear...I dont think Ive ever seen something this stubborn! Hmm....we have a 100 ton press at work, that'd do the trick All joking aside, anyone have any ideas? Ive searched, and it seems that everyone just uses PB, some heat, and voila! its off. Ive tried all that, and cant get it to budge. I also put my 3 jaw puller on it, tightened it to apply a moderate amount of tension, and used heat and tapped the end of my puller, all with zero result. Im about 5 hours in, and would like to be done at some point before all my hairs go grey. anyways, any ideas you guys and gals could throw at me would be awesome.
chet

[Mike]

Do you have the transmission out? If so, hang it by the clutch between two benches, tables, pieces of wood, whatever you can. Just let it sit an inch or so off the ground and put a towel or blanket under it. Take the bolt for the clutch and thread it back in. Back it out two or three turns and then heat the clutch and tap the bolt with a hammer. It should drop out then. If not, try making some wedges out of wood and driving them behind the clutch to help add some additional pressure while you continue to tap and heat.

[clevernickname]

Do you have the transmission out? If so, hang it by the clutch between two benches, tables, pieces of wood, whatever you can. Just let it sit an inch or so off the ground and put a towel or blanket under it. Take the bolt for the clutch and thread it back in. Back it out two or three turns and then heat the clutch and tap the bolt with a hammer. It should drop out then. If not, try making some wedges out of wood and driving them behind the clutch to help add some additional pressure while you continue to tap and heat.

I read that post Mike. Ive been using the search function relentlessly.

lol, ya, the tranny is out, I built an angle iron frame to support the clutch with tranny off the ground, heat, tap, repeat. I also put my gigantic 3 jaw puller on it to lend some additional pressure, and heated, tapped, repeated. The clutch didnt move at all. Im into this about 12-14 hours at this point, and its getting a little frustrating. Tomorrow, its going to work with me, and Im putting it on the 100 ton press, it's gonna move one way or another. by the way, I might be needing a good used driven clutch in the near future if anyone has one...

Another thing that has me stumped, if I can explain it well enough to illustrate the problem is this:
I was aligning the sprockets up to get ready to put chains on again, and I noticed with the tranny in place, the sprockets on the rotors didnt line up with the jackshafts (the short double chains). Ok, so I moved the jackshafts outboard and used a straightedge to get the in the right place. Having done that, I noticed that the front axle sprockets needed to be moved out about 3/16-1/4 inch. The problem is that they cant be moved outward that far, the sprocket tube will hit the bearing very quickly. Its like this all the way down the machine. I dont think my rotors can be moved inboard any farther than they already are....am I missing something?

[rgonut]

wow sounds like i got hosed i paid 500 $ for my Tecumseh Argo some cracks and holes in body 6 cracked sun rotted tires no tracks no winch no extra chain the engine don't run transmission that is seized but i don't have a bent axle . the 500 is the cheap part its the 1500 to 3000 $ all have into it before i can use it for hunting that's hard to swallow.but i still have an Argo and its still cheaper than any quad i could buy and it should float .

[clevernickname]

rgonut: 1500-3000? If I have to put 500 bucks into mine to get it up to snuff, Im gonna be disappointed. I make a lot of my own parts, and Im also always looking for the best deal I can find. While the tracks sweetened my deal a little, I still think I paid too much for my machine. Im trying to keep my total cost under 1000 dollars, if I can. Making your own parts is a killer way to save some serious money, and engines can be sourced super cheap if your patient. I just found a vanguard 20 hp Im going to buy for 50 bucks.....and it runs! you just have to put the word out locally. Have fun with your project!

[clevernickname]

ok....its been a bit. My primary clutch came the other day, (thanks very much to member Highrollinmopars). I still need to find a secondary clutch as I totally destroyed my old one getting it off. I was going to buy a roll cage and front brush guard from a member here, but it doesnt look like thats going to happen, so Im going to start on that stuff as soon as I have some time. Right now Im working 6 days a week, 10-12 hours a day, so not much time to do anything. To sum up: get another secondary clutch, then reinstall the tranny/engine, measure for a belt, check sprocket alignment for the last time, and shes a runner. Everything else at this point is incidental. thanks to everyone here for the insights and knowledge, youve been a huge help, and Im sure, will continue to be (cause Im so needy!)

chet

[clevernickname]

After a not-so-brief hiatus, I attacked the argo with a vengence. It now sports a briggs vanguard, runs fantastic, its 90% wired, chassis is fully assembled and functional. The chains were a little tight, but I expect them to loosen and need adjustment as soon as I can drive it. Im having a heck of a time trying to find a secondary clutch, unless I want to pay new prices, which I cant afford. So If anyone has one laying around, and wants to sell it, I would be happy to take it off thier hands. All I need now is the clutch and a belt. I even modified an old boat top to fit, and used a piece of canvass stretched over that for a top.

[clevernickname]

man I really need to get some updated pictures on here, Ill try that tomorrow. The machine is almost done, found new galvanized steel wheels for 5 bucks each locally- originally were for golf carts, but theyre 8 by 8 and have a nice deep bead. He has about 30 more if anyone is interested. Also got my cd player installed and wired, top and windshield frame done, and finally found a clutch. All I need is to order some delrin for new tensioners, tube and glue the tires, and grab a belt when my clutch gets here! I can literally taste the mud, lol. Cant wait to be the only one up in my riding area this winter!

[coosaridgerider]

Sounds like you are getting close.A lot of nice upgrades too.

[clevernickname]

well, just got in from a trip (sadly, without the argo), and my clutch was here, awesome. Ill get that fitted, measure for a belt and button that up. In the meantime, i found a place that will sell me a sheet of friction material (brake pad material), large enough to make 2 full sets of pads for 18 bucks and some change, so Ill make a template out of my old brake pads and run them through the bandsaw, drill and countersink, and Ill have an extra set to boot. Also going to rebuild my tracks in the very near future, as I want to use the argo in deep snow this fall/winter, and my summer hunting grounds are snowed in by october.

I also have been going thru receipts and as near as I can figure, not counting labor, Im into this project about 1120 so far, and I have about 200 more to go, so I should safely come in under 1500, which isnt bad, but I realized my original estimate of 1000 bucks was kinda optimistic