Bearing removal question

[JRP3]

I've got the locking collar off the outside bearing and the axle is out of the machine but the bearing doesn't seem to want to move. Should it just slide off, or do I really need to smash it hard? I haven't applied too much force yet since I don't have replacements and might need to take an old one with me or take measurements, unless someone has a part number or dimensions?

[George]

They very rarely come off easy. There have been times when I put a new bearing on and tried to take it off a moment later and had difficulty. I use a sprocket tube over the axle to tap it off. Sometimes I just give up and cut it off with a Dremel.

[LarryW]

If the collar is off then it should slide off. Unless there is a setscrew or something. More then likely they are 2" od and 1"id. I have seen a couple differant style bearings so might be differant.

[LarryW]

When I said should slide off I mean nothing else should be holding it. Not that it would be as easy as sliding off.

[liflod]

PB Blaster and a length of 1" pipe on an Attex axle and drive it off with a hammer. It's never easy. If it is , celebrate

[JRP3]

How would you get a pipe over the axle to drive it off? I mean I assume you have to drive it off towards the inside end of the axle, since the outside end has the wheel flange and that sliding mushroom shaped thing, whatever that is?
Lower left hand corner of this pic sorta shows what I'm talking about:

http://www.6x6world.com/gallery/showphoto.php/photo/1160

[liflod]

Pull the axle all the way out and then remove the outer hub. This leave the bare axle and stuck bearing.

[hydromike]

Hey JRP,

The "mushroom shaped thing" on the inside of the 3-bolt hub was originally designed to support the inside of the flotation-style tires. When you slide a flotation tire on, the hub on the tire nestles neatly over part of the mushroom, thus supporting the whole tire, rather than just where it bolts via the 3 bolts.

If you have the locking collar off of the outside bearing, and have removed the setscrew on the inner bearing, and the bolt holding the sprocket tube in place... the only enemy you have is friction. Like Liflod says.... it's rarely (read:never) easy on a 35 year old machine. I tend to like heat. Lots of it. Heat and pipe wrenches. Heat, pipe wrenches and a BFH. It can be extremely frustrating, but you'll get it.

Good luck!
~m

[JRP3]

Pull the axle all the way out and then remove the outer hub. This leave the bare axle and stuck bearing.

This has the flange welded on the end.
Just to be clear, I have the axle out of the machine and this is what I'm looking at. I tried using a punch and hammer to knock it loose but no luck so far. Next I'll try heat I guess, then a grinder and cutoff wheel.

[JRP3]

I got annoyed and just cut it off. Cut the outer race, knocked the cage and bearings off, then cut the inner.
When getting replacements are the inner and outer the same? I haven't removed the inner yet. Fafnir RA100RRB?

[JRP3]

Is this a good price on the Fafnir RA100RRB AG, $14.07 + $5.63 shipping?
Amazon.com: Fafnir RA100RRB AG Narrow Inner Ring Ball Bearing Insert With Eccentric Lock: Industrial & Scientific
Is that the same triple sealed bearing from Buffalo Bearings that JPswift was talking about?

[JRP3]

Inner bearing is not the same as outer one, in case anyone was wondering

[JRP3]

Got my bearings from Buffalo Bearings. The outer bearing was MAX-SA 205 16
They did not have the correct inner bearing in stock but I modified the flange of the one they had and made it work. I just cut out the ends of the holes since the bolt spacing was a bit narrower than the original. I had planned to just use the old flange but couldn't because the new bearing was .05 larger than the old one I just drilled the holes larger and cut where the black lines are:

[JRP3]

The original inner bearing number is a Nice 6916b with a 2 inch outer diameter and a 3 1/4" bolt spacing. That would have been $24.65 if they had them in stock.
The outer bearing was only $8.10.

[xrover]

Usually if the bearing is that tough to come off, you're going to replace it, so grinding is the fast option. But even a newer good condition will be hard to remove. I use a large vice and close the jaws enough that they will let the axle fit through but hold the bearing on the top. I then use a block of wood and hammer and whack the end of the axle shaft. Key to removing the bearing is taking the whole axle out which you ended up doing. You could also try and bearing puller.