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stuck Attex steering levers

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  • stuck Attex steering levers

    I went to attempt to remove my steering levers on my green poly body Attex project and they were REALLY stuck! I tried penetrating oil and a big pipe wrench without any luck. I was told that people who had that problem with their machines had to take a torch to them. I got some heat on the tubular housing where the steering levers go into with my oxy acetylene torch. I got it red hot and had a friend of mine turn the sticks with the pipe wrench. It moved a little bit, and then I repeated the process and it came out! The second one didn't work out so well, since the steering stick broke off in the tubular housing. I got the torch on the broken piece in the housing, got it real hot and just melted the remainder of the broken stick to melt down to the bottom of the housing and it was then out of the way.

    If you are having the same problem with getting the sticks out, try spraying the penetrating oil down the tubular housing where the steering sticks go and try to turn it one way and then the other with a pipe wrench. This might not work, especially if your rig was sitting outside for a long time and nobody ever used any anti-seize compound on the sticks. I would highly recomend heating the tubular housing for the sticks and then turning them with a pipe wrench. When you turn the sticks with a pipe wrench make sure you turn them a couple turns clockwise and then counter-clockwise so that the sticks don't snap off.
    "Looks like you have a problem with your 4 wheeler........you're missin' two wheels there"
    sigpic

  • #2
    Glad you got them out and Great Advise.

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    • #3
      other ways of doing it

      i wanted to post this process on 6x6 but mike did not want me to. i just recently started on my chassis. it was all rusty so i filled it with clean water until the rusty componants were submerged completely. added a half gallon of muriatic acid. then took my battery charger and hooked the negative to the chassis and let my posative float in the salution not touching the frame. be sure to be in well ventelated area because your creating alot of hydrogen oxygen gas doing this. within 2 days with battery charger on low. everything looked brand new with no rust to be seen. be sure to coat your metal quick because it will rust fast once exposed to air. and never leave a dead battery hooked to anything. your just accelerating the rust process by doing that. the process i just described can also be used to electroplate steel. you can coat anything with anything. it makes it nice to coat your steel with stainless or aluminum and its easy and permanant.
      Last edited by Mike; 11-21-2008, 08:18 AM.

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      • #4
        Since I have worked with Muriotic myself, I just want to note that it's extremely effective at removing cement, so you don't want to do this on your sidewalk, cement driveway, or around your foundation I used it to level a cement floor in my store. After removing the excess lumps, I mopped it up, diluting it. However, it got dumped out the back door, and there was a deep gouge forever left in the back sidewalk I would suggest your neighbors lawn
        Attex 295 Wild Wolf: sigpic My Runner
        Attex 252? Colt? Racer 80%: My Racer to be..... SOMEDAY
        Attex Super Chief - Sold.

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        • #5
          yes and its also very bad for your clothes eyes and skin, not to meantion it will take your breath away. always keep baking soda around to nuetralise it before disposing or in case of a spill on your neighbors lawn. lol

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          • #6
            Originally posted by powerzap69 View Post
            i wanted to post this process on 6x6 but mike did not want me to.
            What didn't I want you to do? Spam the board trying to sell things? Yes.

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