Attex 295 ABS repair.

[6X6]

Hi everyone, I am new to 6x6world. As my user name may suggest, my creativity in names is somewhat lacking.

Anyway, I got an Attex Wild Wolf 295 from a friend that needs lots of plastic attention. I have already made a friend at a local plastic company and acquired raw ABS pellet, and made the acetone/ABS goo. There is a MASSIVE crack running the length of the left lower body's underside, front corner to back (Not fixed), and misc. other cracks, which I have already repaired. I am noticing that I am getting bubbles in the cured ABS. I am applying it VERY thin, (Dave on route 6X6 sais 1/8" thick max), but I am keeping it thinner, and tried brushing acetone periodically, as he suggested, to allow gasses to escape, but no dice. I have backed up all the repairs with a surface coat about 3/4" around all the cracks, but I can't do this on the bottom crack's outside, and this is the one that counts. I maybe have 1-2 minutes float time if it opens up, WITH the bilge pump I am installing running full bore (I new I kept that old boat around for something) Any ideas as to how I am screwing up? How thick should the goo be? Please help before I scratch clear through my skull!

[racerone3]

i had my best luck when i kept the goo pretty thick... i still have a few stress marks in the repairs in some spots. i used donor plastic from another attex (thanks don)... not sure if the chemical composition of all ab is exactly the same, so i wanted as close as possible. i brushed acetone on and around the repair area, let it tack up for 20 minutes then brushed on the goo. i did my repairs when it was about 70 degrees outside, and on nights when the humidity was low. temp and humidity made a huge difference in how paint cured when i was painting cars so i just went with what worked best there when choosing the conditions for my abs repair. seems like it worked ok, but i haven't run the machine yet, so i can't say how it will hold up. hope this is of some help to you, and welcome to the site!

[6X6]

Thanks Racer, I am about as thick as I think I can go (lukewarm tar). I heard that raw pellet (Not regrind pellet or "Donor" plastic from an already molded item) was the way to go as something changed when it was molded, but not sure. I hope the humidity is lower tomorrow, it should be in low 70's. Anyone else have input?

[6X6]

Please, Any Input, I Am Desperate

I was hoping to do the crack today, but not happening cause I don't know what I am doing wrong. The small holes I patched I did by the directions from Dave at Route 6x6, but when I apply the second layer ( VERY THIN ) after softening the first layer's surface and surrounding with acetone ( per dave), it bubbles anyway, and I see now that the first layer de-laminated from the next etc, etc... and I must do these holes over again. I am no stranger to epoxy work, glassing, gluing, painting, and most any mechanical work/repair, but this is a true PITA, didn't someone say this was supposed to be easy??. I have a 5 foot long 1/2" wide crack to fix or this ends up on the bottom of my swampy pond on run #1. Please, someone who has done this before, PLEASE HELP ME before I junk this thing!!!!!

[6X6]

A new off-road toy.

Hi, new to 6x6world. Long-time off-roader (Trucks, Mountain bikes, Rock climbing and ATVs) but this is my first experience with a 6X6. I had seen an argo run on some TV show many years ago, no idea what is was now, but I really didn't know thing one about these. WELL, now I have an ATTEX 295 WILD WOLF sitting covered (at night anyway) in my backyard that I am restoring. Awesome machine, new JLO 295 in it, and it runs great (After tuning it) and is a blast, at least on dry land. I am now in ABS HELL, and learning what everyone is saying about Attex owners are Attex restorers. I am kinda happy with the work I have done so far, but a Five foot crack (Yep, a smash at the front corner you could shove a soft-ball through leads to a crack that ends no more than 4" from the rear) threatens her sea-worthieness (500 GPH automatic bildge pump going in, but not gonna stem that flow). The previous owner felt the solution was a set of skidplates made out of what looks to be every road sign that was in his town at the time , and unfortunately a bad fiberglass job . I will post up some pictures when this thread is done and I can open a new one. Thanks.

[George]

Where abouts do you live 6x6?

[JRP3]

Where abouts do you love 6x6?

I think he "loves" Putnam NY

6x6, it sounds as if you might have some contamination or incompatibility there.
Try this, find a small section of ABS inside the tub where you can cut some off, grind that up, and try a small patch. If that doesn't cause the same problems then maybe the ABS you are using isn't quite the same as what the Attex is made of. If you search the forums here you'll find a number of threads talking about ABS repair, and some people seem to have good luck with it and others struggle. I had mediocre results, but better than what you are seeing. It may take weeks for the mix to really cure, and even then I'm not sure it's as strong as original, so build it up thicker if you can. I'm also going to be molding a HDPE skid plate to the bottom like Hydromike did, search for a thread called "Keeping them alive" I think.

[hydromike]

Hey 6x6,

In my opinion, the HDPE would be a great way to add some support to the bottom of your machine. ABS patching is a great way to fill/patch small holes, but for really long cracks (4 feet long? 1/2 inch gap?) I think you need some serious structural enhancements that ABS goo cannot provide. You could very easily cut the 1/4" thick HDPE sheets into strips that would run the length of each side, if you didn't want to expend the energy to mold it to the bottom. About 50-60 rivets later, you'd have decent support, and some substantial water proof skid plates for your machine. I take my 4-stroke up, over an through things that still make me cringe, but the plate holds up amazingly well. It'll never crack. It might get the bejesus scratched out of it, but that's what it's there for. :o)

~m

[6X6]

Thanks JRP and Mike. Mike, I saw the thread and the photos of your skidplate and I already decided that I will eventually ditch the road-sign skidplates the previous owner did in favor of a HDPE like you did. I can form it to the bottom, doesnt look overly hard, just must be patient. I am looking for a local source, closest I found was a seller in your area, Mike, unless that is you, and if so how much for enough for my machine? I won't be beating it on rocks, but will be swimming/mudding. Oh, and I live in the lower Hudson valley, just about the other end of the state from you.

JRP, I have the cutout from the hole-saw for the bilge pump discharge, so I will try that. Last thing, is any ideas to remove the last of that Fiberglass resin, or must I sand/grind it all away???

[JRP3]

If you aren't going to be beating it up with rocks you may be able to get away with a thinner piece of HDPE which will be easier to form. I may go this route myself, though it will be white
HDPE Rolls - High Density Polyethylene Rolls from North Brook Farms for plastic building material, plastic paneling, and more
You'll probably have to grind away any fiberglass that's on there.
When you make your ABS goop it helps to make the chunks as small as possible so they dissolve easily. I've used a cheese grater type body tool, and a saw to make fine pieces.

[birddog1148]

If you aren't going to be beating it up with rocks you may be able to get away with a thinner piece of HDPE which will be easier to form. I may go this route myself, though it will be white
HDPE Rolls - High Density Polyethylene Rolls from North Brook Farms for plastic building material, plastic paneling, and more
You'll probably have to grind away any fiberglass that's on there.
When you make your ABS goop it helps to make the chunks as small as possible so they dissolve easily. I've used a cheese grater type body tool, and a saw to make fine pieces.

That roll plastic looks like racing plastic, comes in lots of colors.

[sofob0909]

i had my best luck when i kept the goo pretty thick... i still have a few stress marks in the repairs in some spots. i used donor plastic from another attex (thanks don)... not sure if the chemical composition of all ab is exactly the same, so i wanted as close as possible. i brushed acetone on and around the repair area, let it tack up for 20 minutes then brushed on the goo. i did my repairs when it was about 70 degrees outside, and on nights when the humidity was low. temp and humidity made a huge difference in how paint cured when i was painting cars so i just went with what worked best there when choosing the conditions for my abs repair. seems like it worked ok, but i haven't run the machine yet, so i can't say how it will hold up. hope this is of some help to you, and welcome to the site!

Hey racerone3,

How have your repairs held up?
I am looking at doing some goop repairs and want to see the reliability long term

[JRP3]

I had good luck using epoxy and fiberglass cloth. Description and pics here:
http://www.6x6world.com/forums/gener...ml?#post106898

[racerone3]

Hey racerone3,

How have your repairs held up?
I am looking at doing some goop repairs and want to see the reliability long term

Most of those repairs held up well, but I have changed my methods a bit for ABS. I now Plastic weld all I can, then use a much thinner goo, and fiberglass cloth for strength. A couple layers with cure time between each. I talked about it at length in this thread : http://www.6x6world.com/forums/attex...tor-build.html