They only come off one way. Inside shaft is 1", outside is 25mm. So outside is smaller. I put the 1" end of the shaft in a tube that it barely fits in and beat it in with hammer. You can put the tube in a vise or what ever. Becarefull not to ruin/mushroom the end of the shaft but if you do just grind it round again.
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$75 Attex ST300D
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Originally posted by birddog1148 View PostLarry, you were right!
Now to figure out where to get these bearings from.
Looks like you should of asked first.Thats sucks. I have never found a new bearing flange that fits without mods. If you do find some, let me know.
Best bet is to find one used from someone. If you get real desperate let me know. I may have a couple extra. I really dont want to sell them though. PM me if you dont have any luck.
The most highly recommended source for the inserts is buffalo bearing. Jpswift can help there or you could probably search the site for there number. I have heard lots of good reports from people who bought bearings from them.
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That bearing doesnt seem to come apart, no way that I could tell. I have talked to Buffalo Bearing and they seem like a good company, but it sounded to me like the only sold the inserts and not the flange and if I cant take the see you inserts out of the flange I am stuck. thats why I keep posting the ones I find different places.
Larry, I see you use one of the "clone" engines, I want my kids to be able to drive this when I am done and while I want the 13hp clone, the 11hp is cheaper. I want to be able to run trails in the woods and hunt with it when I am done, not race it. What do you think of the 11hp clone?Cave Trolls Rule!
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Originally posted by birddog1148 View PostThat bearing doesnt seem to come apart, no way that I could tell. I have talked to Buffalo Bearing and they seem like a good company, but it sounded to me like the only sold the inserts and not the flange and if I cant take the see you inserts out of the flange I am stuck. thats why I keep posting the ones I find different places.
Larry, I see you use one of the "clone" engines, I want my kids to be able to drive this when I am done and while I want the 13hp clone, the 11hp is cheaper. I want to be able to run trails in the woods and hunt with it when I am done, not race it. What do you think of the 11hp clone?
The bearing you have there are the ones that has to be turned 90 degrees in the flange and it will come out. Spherical insert. Rounded outer ring. 1st gen. attex also had a kind that was held in by internal clip. Cylindrical insert. Flat outer ring. They where slightly wider and the bearing is held away from the body more. Helps with the axles strength.
I have the 16hp and my brother has a 13hp. Not a huge difference in power. I have a st300d with a 8hp tecumseh and it will push it along surprisingly well. It has plenty of power for dragging, pulling and climbing. Although I only have balder balloons on it so it dont say much but it will spin them when pulling something to heavy or held in the ground by big roots, lol. So it runs out of traction before power. Its no racer or anything but it is fun to trial ride and just play around in. 11hp would probably work just great.
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Originally posted by birddog1148 View Post1st home made chevron
If you look at what drives the track on a snowmachine / snowmobile, it's a cog that engages the metal lined holes in the track. Here's a pic of a track, bundled up but showing the holes. 04-648-100 - 1.0" Arctic/Ski-Doo/Polaris/Yamaha Track
Now, if at least your front and rear tires were cut with tapered spikes to fit these holes, maybe you wouldn't need track guides on the track itself.
If that track is 15" wide, it looks like center to center might be 10" or so.
11" tire, measured at the sidewall?
anyway, look at this pic for an idea of whaT i MEAN:
Home made tracks - TrackShare.com - Canada's Outdoor Connection
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Originally posted by Guy View PostWow, that completes an idea I had last night about putting homemade snowmachine tracks last night.
If you look at what drives the track on a snowmachine / snowmobile, it's a cog that engages the metal lined holes in the track. Here's a pic of a track, bundled up but showing the holes. 04-648-100 - 1.0" Arctic/Ski-Doo/Polaris/Yamaha Track
Now, if at least your front and rear tires were cut with tapered spikes to fit these holes, maybe you wouldn't need track guides on the track itself.
If that track is 15" wide, it looks like center to center might be 10" or so.
11" tire, measured at the sidewall?
anyway, look at this pic for an idea of whaT i MEAN:
Home made tracks - TrackShare.com - Canada's Outdoor ConnectionCave Trolls Rule!
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As soon as the new motor gets here I will have pics! Got one off ebay!
NEW ELEC START 13 HP SIDE SHAFT GAS ENGINE TILLER MOWER - eBay (item 200400680187 end time Nov-30-09 20:04:58 PST)
I am excited!Cave Trolls Rule!
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You will more then likely have to go to a 208tt style mount. You may be able to go to a lower style mount though. Here is a 208tt style with my powermax and a low styled mount I made for my little lil truck conversion.
The front of the 208tt mount has to be modified for the 7000 trans. Also the stock 208tt mount was widened for the wider frame of my 16hp powermax.
You can see I have the nut spacers in the back party where the rubber mounts were.
The low mount attaches to the tranny frame on the angled side. It goes back to where I modified a rear mount.
Hopefully give yous some ideas.
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