Vintage Attex Indenification/Questions

[RancherX]

I purchased this vintage Attex and am in the process of restoring it but have a few questions:

1. I was told this is an ST/300/D, is that correct?

2. The belt on the transmission now is a Dayco, and the with does not appear to be wide enough, thus the clutch does not function properly. (It can't open all the way). Is that the correct belt? If not, where can I get the correct belt?

3. The axle hubs need the bearings replaced, and the seals. I think I found compatible bearings for relatively cheap online, but where can the seals be purchased? Do the bearings need to be high quality or will cheap ones purchased online work?

4. The pucks on the Power Transmission are worn. I heard that I can use a hole saw to make new ones from a standard car brake pad, does that work? If so, what size hole saw do I need?

I hope you guys can help me out!

[thebuggyman1]

Your belt looks way too narrow and way too loose. read this: ATV and Snowmobile Belts - by Dayco

Edit: The belt may not be too long, if it rides higher in your secondary it will take up some of the looseness. But it definately needs to be higher in the secondary clutch.

[RancherX]

Thanks for the response. I agree; the belt is totally wrong. Where can I get the correct belt?

[LarryW]

Hey RancherX

1. It appears to be a st300d to me. If you look down the side on the front you might be able to see the model emblem even if they sanded it off and painted it. I think the plastic under the stickers got a protection from the elements making it visible even after sanding it as smooth as you can. But everything I can see tells me its a st300d.

2. The Gates 6040 is 43 7/16th" and width of 15/16th". I did find 1626v428 and works good for me but... It measures at 42.8" and 1" wide. And I do have some adjustment in my custom motor mount so I cant say for sure if it will work for you. I am also running it in a 208tt which does take the same gates 6040 belt.

3. I took the measurement to Napa and they has some but I didnt buy them. The bearings I bough had an outer seal and figured why do I need it sealed again so i haven't ever run the seals you are talking about. I mean for optimal longevity of the bearins it would help I'm sure but I have had no issues without them. I have also came up with another solution but its top secret until I test it, lol.

4. I have made them out of different materials and I don't really have any long term results. The problem is finding the correct type of friction material. I'm sorry I don't remember off hand the hole saw but I do recommend doing it with coolant or water or something running on them to protect you from the dust.

Good luck on that ole attex. I love the first generation machine builds!

[RancherX]

Hey LarryW,

Thanks for the answers to my questions. Your post really helped a lot!

One more thing, where the seal used to be, I could pop in another sealed bearing and have two bearings, would that be a good idea? Where did you get your bearings, did you just get normal sealed bearings, or waterproof?

I'll keep everyone updated on the restoration. Since it's already not the original color, my vision for it is to LineX the whole body black for durability. Is that a good idea?

[LarryW]

That double bearing idea was actually my secret, lol. I haven't actually tried it yet though. And the bearing will have to spec out to be a locking collar or set screw style, it cant be a pressed bearing.

I got mine off ebay. They are just normal sealed bearings. Nothing fancy.

You dont want a spray in bedliner material on the outside of the lower tub because the under body will hang up easier being textured. Mud, logs, snow and even tall weeds will create an extra drag.

[RancherX]

Thanks for the reply. Well, we will soon see how your double-bearing secret works out, LarryW, as I will be trying it shorty. I am think of just using the same pressed bearings, and putting a set screw through the hub. I will post pictures, and results of how it works when I get it all together. Right now I am still at the tear-down stage, and almost have the frame out to be painted.

How about a roll/brush on bedliner material? I have attached a picture of a Sierra Trail Boss I previously owned that had some sort of bedliner job that I didn't have any problems with, and it really seemed to strengthen the body.

[amphibious drew]

While the bed liner stuff seems like a good idea, It has a high coefficient of friction and will cause you to get hung up on even smooth obstacles when used on the outside of the tub. My concern on the inside would be the chain dragging on it. A sheet of HDPE can make an awfully nice skid plate and I guess could be used over the lining if you really needed to reduce friction and did use the bed liner on the outside.

[RancherX]

For just some backyard trail riding, would a bedliner product be a good idea to strengthen the body?

[amphibious drew]

I would use it on the inside only and try to stay away from where the chains could drag on it.

[RancherX]

I'll probably just go with rattle-can orange then, since the body isn't perfect so I don't think it would be worth doing a base coat/clear coat spray job. What color is closest to the stock Attex orange? (They all come in orange when new, right?)

[amphibious drew]

Actually they are yellow unless you have a 76 super chief which is orange. Is that what you have is a super chief?

[LarryW]

The problem with the bearing is you would have to press one one, then put the hub and internal snap rings on both side of the bearing. Then press the other bearing on. It would be easy to do but to ever remove the bearing would be impossible. Thats why I thought I would press the original bearing on. Put hub on and rings in. Then use a set screw bearing that could be removed on last.

I have also welded 1/4-20 nuts on the frame to go away with the snap nut clips they originally came with. Made it easier to remove/install the bearing hubs. And I was running with a strip of plastic that fit the chain valley perfect for a while incase a chain broke to help protect the body. It just layed there, I never attached it to anything.

[RancherX]

Amphibious Drew, sorry I meant yellow not orange, I have an ST/300/D.

Good idea on welding nuts to the frame, LarryW. I had to drill off my stock Attex allen-head bolts, and I think a regular bolt would be too big...any ideas?

[LarryW]

Yea a regular 1/4-20 bolt wont fit. I just bought a box of 25- 1 1/2" allen heads from mcmaster carr.
Another tip I did, I welded up a piece of metal to the nuts that go under the transmission mount so you dont have to hold a wrench down there when adjusting your chains.