Homemade Conquest Hardtop Build Thread

[bluebruin]

ok my project is back from the dead. finally some time to work on it. I cut the parts on the CNC yesterday.

1st order of business was to remove the back seat in the argo since it interferes with the hardtop. The aluminum top stops where the sides of the argo are no longer straight and start curving around the back... Since my hardtop will basically hug the aluminum frame, I decided to remove the seat back that was bolted to the back hand rail.

Then, I had to remove the old softop mounting hardware and aluminum channel, as well as some eye hooks the previous owner installed for lashing gear to the roof.





Next I test fit my panels. So far so good. Seems like its going to work out.




I plan to prime the wood with Zinsser BIN and then paint with oil based paint. Maybe a coat of epoxy when all done.

[bluebruin]

more of my wood parts cut waiting for assembly

[riotwarrior]

This looks awesome love it.

Maybe one day I will have the 8x8 of my dreams....hello convoluteded design...

Keep up
E great work.

What you going to us3 for windows?

[Noel Woods]

Very nice thread, trust me when I say, if I lived or had property at that latitude I would have a top, liquid cooled engine and heater, wipers, etc. Nice build. Keep up the good work.

[riotwarrior]

Very nice thread, trust me when I say, if I lived or had property at that latitude I would have a top, liquid cooled engine and heater, wipers, etc. Nice build. Keep up the good work.

Turbo Diesel all day long!

[riotwarrior]

ok my project is back from the dead. .....

Next I test fit my panels. So far so good. Seems like its going to work out.




I plan to prime the wood with Zinsser BIN and then paint with oil based paint. Maybe a coat of epoxy when all done.

Ok on this image I was wondering if maybe a more contoured fit around back of tub might work better?

You could make a like shape that bolts and glues Sikiflex is one of my fav adhesives to the top portion of cab and shape the rear hatch accordingly and it could seal over the outter portion of rear tub....hope I am articulating what I mean?

It woukd be easy to skive some additional panels to the sides and obtain shape as required I suspect.

Just thinking outloud...

Nice work regardless

[bluebruin]

worked on it a bit tonight.

installed the first door frame trim. this mounts on the backside of the wall, and sticks out 1/2 into the door opening all the way around to give the door something to close against. I had to trim it a bit to make it fit around the angled tube support in the aluminum top. I took my best guess when I laid it out in cad but tolerances were close. I wanted the doors and windows to be relatively large for a few reasons. Mainly weight and so it would not feel like you were sitting in a cave or tank or something when driving around. that and to maintain good visibility out of the argo for driving.

here is the inside of the wall with the trim pieces laid out around it. I made them in several joining pieces to minimize the amount of plywood needed.



Here is the trim installed and the wall fitted up on the side of the argo.


Here is the door sitting in the opening.

[bluebruin]

This looks awesome love it.

Maybe one day I will have the 8x8 of my dreams....hello convoluteded design...

Keep up
E great work.

What you going to us3 for windows?

windows are some 0.060" polycarbonate. Hope it will be strong enough. that stuff is really strong, and very light in that thickness. guess we'll see. I can always put in thicker later if needed. I might add some plywood "storm shutters" (removable) for when the argo is sitting around at the cabin in high wind or in storage or transport.

[bluebruin]

Ok on this image I was wondering if maybe a more contoured fit around back of tub might work better?

You could make a like shape that bolts and glues Sikiflex is one of my fav adhesives to the top portion of cab and shape the rear hatch accordingly and it could seal over the outter portion of rear tub....hope I am articulating what I mean?

It woukd be easy to skive some additional panels to the sides and obtain shape as required I suspect.

Just thinking outloud...

Nice work regardless

yeah, that would be nice, but its hard to make "contours" with plywood... so I am doing kind of a box around the back part. I moved my rear seat out of the way to make room for the top to come inside the tub like you see. no big deal, still plenty of room back there. I will take some pictures when I get to that part. I know its a bit hard to visualize with the pics so far.

[bluebruin]

inside of door trim. you can see the paddle latches plan to install. i had these left over from another project and I'm trying to make them work. Will have to install some type of inside door handle so you can get out!



view from the inside so far


rear hatch panel in place with trim around rear door hatch.


primed the first wall panel with zinsser BIN primer I had left over from a house project. it should seal the wood and then I'll paint black oil based paint over it. might put a coat of epoxy or resin over everything after that.


panels put in place to test fit to cover rear end of argo and make the hardtop complete so it can keep out most cold air and snow etc. seems to fit ok.



another view of rear panels test fit

[JohnF]

If you are thinking epoxy, apply it to bare wood before anything else. You want the resin to impregnate the wood fibers. And your paint will protect the epoxy from UV deterioration.

[bluebruin]

If you are thinking epoxy, apply it to bare wood before anything else. You want the resin to impregnate the wood fibers. And your paint will protect the epoxy from UV deterioration.

hmm yes, that's right. forgot about that. guess I won't be doing epoxy. that's ok. any suggestions out there for the best exterior paint? There is not tons of rain at our cabin (I will cover it in the summer when not in use). Its mostly going to be sitting outside in strong sun/UV and blowing snow over the winter if all goes according to plan.

[bluebruin]

according to this: Zinsser B-I-N Primer/Sealer

Great for use on all interior surfaces & spot priming on exterior surfaces. It is formulated to seal, prime and block out stains on previously painted or new work. Any oil or latex paint can be applied over it.

did soem more more reading elsewhere... found this....

BIN-- I actually called Zinnser last year about this very topic. I am really glad I did too. Zinnser says--no way is BIN to be used as a large scale, full primer. In other words, it's for spot priming only. If you don't follow Maks comment about glue, the hagster can point you to the right link regarding how to use exterior brown carpenter's glue to kill knot bleed through.

Again--BIN is for spot priming only. It will crack from the expansion and contraction of just about any wood- a guarantee for top coat failure.

crap. well. guess I'll be sanding that top off on that one exterior panel I did. that stinks. thanks for pointing this out now though.

[bluebruin]

I decided to just recut the side I painted. Not worth trying to sand off the BIN. I ordered this to coat the outside of the wood
Amazon.com - Amazing GOOP® Coat-It Epoxy 2lb kit - Tile Mortar Adhesives

[bluebruin]

Decided to put on a 24" LED light bar. Got one on amazon for $36 with shipping. prices have really come down on these. I recall they were over $100 not more than a year ago for the same thing.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MTK21VU?refRID=0JC9NF7FGZ77J98GA8NV&ref_=pd_bia_nav_t_2

seems like nice aluminum construction. rubber pads for under the mounts.


I'll be mounting it on the underside of the aluminum hardtop that sticks out over the windshield. That will keep it out of the way and up high for nice illumination of the trail.

I will be covering the hood with a 4x6 tarp I bought to keep snow out of the engine bay when the argo is parked at our cabin... the wind up there gets snow into every nook and cranny.