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  • rdr
    replied
    Originally posted by liflod View Post
    I think having to assemble the axles with belts presents a problem. Also the amount of debris, mud and everything else would cause issues with a belt drive system. How much is a new belt for a Harley?
    wet belts don't work robbie

    Leave a comment:


  • snafu6x6
    replied
    Bw6, where do you work? Sounds like you have some experience...

    Leave a comment:


  • Bw6
    replied
    Poly Chain

    6x6, Gates makes "Poly Chain" as a direct replacement for just about any chain and sprocket. Their synchronous belts and matching sheaves are an excellent chain/sprocket replacement. The are basically maintenance free, but expensive. but with very good payback, especially with 250 hr chain life. Other qualities are light weight, and higher efficiencies.

    In order to simplify the engineering/selection process they have free design software. If you are serious I would work with a Rep. in your area. Here is a link, browse their site for more info. Gates Belt/Sprocket Interchange Guide | Gates Corporation

    Leave a comment:


  • 6X6
    replied
    Originally posted by fulleraviation View Post
    As I rode my Harley Roadking to work this morning (belt drive, no chain), I wondered if belt drive would work in our machines. It sure would be quiet, and water would be no problem. The belts should last a lifetime, unless you get something caught between the sprocket and the belt. You would never have to lube or worry about rust.
    I've been considering this very thing for a Racer Attex I'm working on. The belts will be pricy, and getting pullies machined up (I plan on fitting to Whipper's Splined Axles) will be also. Once it's disassembled it should be easy to put axles in most of the way, slip belt over the axles, and once all belts/axles are on work one end at a time onto pullies. With Anti-seize and regular maintenance, it should be easy to remove and re-install axles to do belts. Dust/Dirt and mud should not wreck the belts, although they WILL shorten their life, I suspect the effect will be much less so than on chain, belt can give so sand doesn't grind in there, just a trip aroup pully and falls out. A stone or pebble, on the other hand, would punch right through, so inspections would be critical. Efficiency is where I am not sure, I think belt is more efficient, but I'm not sure on that, and I'm also not sure on weight. The pullies will be heavier than sprokets, belt of comperable strength should be lighter, so ???
    Last edited by 6X6; 11-05-2008, 03:08 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • liflod
    replied
    I think having to assemble the axles with belts presents a problem. Also the amount of debris, mud and everything else would cause issues with a belt drive system. How much is a new belt for a Harley?

    Leave a comment:


  • tpg
    replied
    Originally posted by fulleraviation View Post
    As I rode my Harley Roadking to work this morning (belt drive, no chain), I wondered if belt drive would work in our machines. It sure would be quiet, and water would be no problem. The belts should last a lifetime, unless you get something caught between the sprocket and the belt. You would never have to lube or worry about rust.

    I often wish that my machine were more stealth.

    Later,
    Rutledge
    I've wondered that myself. It was really nice going all the way up the east coast of the US/Canada and back on my Lowrider and never worrying about lubing/adjusting
    chains. Not to mention the absence of chain snatch.(Still preferred my cross countries on the XR 650L though.)

    Should be an easy calculation - when I get back to the office next week I'll grab some engineering books and see what torques a small diameter cogged belts/pulleys/widths can take. If those belts can stand up to hot rodded 1380 Harleys I would assume
    a 25 horse Kohler shoudn't be a problem.

    Now how to adapt that to the T-20 could be interesting...

    Which brings up another topic - whats with the drilled/pinned sprockets(a least on Attexs). Why not just use keyways? I did a rough calc a while back and if my math was correctly, a designed keyway was stronger torsionally than could be achieved pinning.

    Would certainly open up some cheaper simpler rechaining/sprocketing solutions.

    Any engineers out there?

    Leave a comment:


  • fulleraviation
    replied
    As I rode my Harley Roadking to work this morning (belt drive, no chain), I wondered if belt drive would work in our machines. It sure would be quiet, and water would be no problem. The belts should last a lifetime, unless you get something caught between the sprocket and the belt. You would never have to lube or worry about rust.

    I often wish that my machine were more stealth.

    Later,
    Rutledge

    Leave a comment:


  • tpg
    replied
    Originally posted by rdr View Post
    tpg i have seen that at the mx store how does it work on o rings . i'm useing jp black on my chains oring . robbie
    It's rated for use on O-ringed and conventional chains.

    I should explain my "liberal use" of chain lube. You don't want it to gloop up an hold
    dirt. If it starts any build up it needs to be cleaned before application. I also prefer application to a warm chain.

    BTW: I assume you meant PJ Black? If so, I have used it and prefer the Maxima.
    Less mess.

    tom

    Leave a comment:


  • rdr
    replied
    Originally posted by tpg View Post
    I'm new to 6x6s but have 30 yrs experience trying to keep MX chains alive in the sandy soils of Florida.

    O-ringed chains and liberal use of "dry" lubes have worked best for me. I really like Maxima's "Chain Wax".

    tom
    tpg i have seen that at the mx store how does it work on o rings . i'm useing jp black on my chains oring . robbie

    Leave a comment:


  • tpg
    replied
    I'm new to 6x6s but have 30 yrs experience trying to keep MX chains alive in the sandy soils of Florida.

    O-ringed chains and liberal use of "dry" lubes have worked best for me. I really like Maxima's "Chain Wax".

    tom

    Leave a comment:


  • racerone3
    replied
    mine was standard roller chain, sorry i missed the 0-ring part in your original post. i think mine was right in the $5.75/ foot range as well. (i ordered 30' of standard #50 us tsubacki for my 6 chain attex) i wonder if 0-ring wouldn't wear more in dusty, sandy conditions. seems like anything that got in there would become trapped. just a thought

    Leave a comment:


  • techfx
    replied
    Originally posted by racerone3 View Post
    i just put new chain in my attex for around $180. i just ordered bulk chain from motion industries. https://www.motionindustries.com/mot...p/mi/index.jsp and cut it to the lengths i needed. just something to think about for next time. i know your max is a lot longer, but even at twice the chain it would be cheaper.


    What part number was this? I got a quote from them for $5.75 /ft for a 50 ft roll of u.s. Tsubaki.

    Leave a comment:


  • rdr
    replied
    Originally posted by fulleraviation View Post
    Hey Race,

    What kind of chain are you running? My Max IV has 530 O-Ring, which I can't seem to find much of a bargin on anywhere of any good quality. Standard roller chain is much less.

    Thanks,
    Rut
    i think race brought tbaski that is what rec uses . robbie

    Leave a comment:


  • fulleraviation
    replied
    Hey Race,

    What kind of chain are you running? My Max IV has 530 O-Ring, which I can't seem to find much of a bargin on anywhere of any good quality. Standard roller chain is much less.

    Thanks,
    Rut

    Leave a comment:


  • racerone3
    replied
    i just put new chain in my attex for around $180. i just ordered bulk chain from motion industries. https://www.motionindustries.com/mot...p/mi/index.jsp and cut it to the lengths i needed. just something to think about for next time. i know your max is a lot longer, but even at twice the chain it would be cheaper.

    Leave a comment:

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