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  • #31
    I'm very interested in what you come up with. I want to replace the motor to T20 drive chain on my electric 6x6 with a belt since that's the noisiest part I have and throws the most lube around because of the speed. One thing that concerns me is since you can't remove links to customize the length you need to get the size exactly right, or at least close enough to take up with adjusters. I've also read that instead of having an idler/adjuster in the middle of the belt you want one right over a pulley to keep the belt from rising up off the pulley and jumping teeth.

    http://www.amp-phibian.blogspot.com/

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    • #32
      JRP3: I am not sure if that will be needed or not. These do have a VERY specific tooth pattern, and as I am checking for a HIGH HP rating, the program is sticking the largest pullies that will fit into the design, I believe that this is because the smaller pullies could skip. If I need to run an undersized pully I will oversize the belt and run a roller at each to prevent skipping. It also works with the distance between the axles (center to center) and tells you if your off by even a Hundredth of an inch! Now the biggest hitch is that the pullies don't have tubes on them, and I think they are all aluminum (I need to verify, but I will use aluminum anyway) so they can't be pinned to the axle easily. I want to use Whipper's Splined axles, so I can get the pullies splined. You are using the bolts thru the axle, right? I think you'll have to use very thick aluminum tube or key the axle and the sprocket (Probably the better way) maybe double key with the torque of an electric. I'll let you know after I talk to a rep, what I come up with.
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      • #33
        I'm only looking to replace my motor to trans chain, which uses keyed shafts. I'll be interested to hear what you come up with. I guess I should download that program and mess with it myself.

        http://www.amp-phibian.blogspot.com/

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