Need to clean the inside of the AATV...need help!

[arp35]

Ok thanks Mike...you're the best

[racerone3]

usually when I'm tearing a machine down I do it exactly like you did, then put each axle in a vice and remove the ecentric collar. if the bearing won't come off at that point, it's a lot easier to cut it off with an angle grinder than if it is in the machine. on the Hustler I just did, I had 3 come off easy, and had to cut 3

[arp35]

Ok, hopefully they will all slide off (fingers crossed). Tonight I went out and decided to fire up the Kohler 25. I had not run it yet so was anxious to see it run. It took me a while to figure out how to get power to the starter. At first I thought the starter or starter solenoid was bad because I couldn't get it to turn over. So I pulled it off the engine and it looked fine. So I then looked at the service diagram on Kohlers website (awesome site with all the manuals) and discovered that the blue wire was supposed to connect to the solenoid. The connector was missing so I just jerry rigged it. I ran a tube into a gas tank and put my hand over the opening so it would pressurize. Turned the key and whammo! it fired up like a raped ape I let it run for a few minutes and opened the throttle about half way...it seems to have gobs of power. It was dancing all over my garage at idle but once I added a little gas it smoothed out and stayed put. I do have one small problem, one of the muffler studs is broken off. I tried to weld a nut to it but the weld keeps breaking before the bolt will release. I put a new nut on and turned up the power a notch to hopefully melt the stud and nut together better, i then sprayed it with PB blaster and will let it sit overnight. There is only about an 1/4" of the bolt showing so I can't get the nut all the way on. Does anyone have any better ideas if it won't budge tomorrow? I have new studs in the mail. Let me know...
Al

[Mike]

You may want to try putting the torch on it for a while and get it red hot. You can always drill it out or try an "easy out" on it.

[arp35]

I wanted to give closure on the engine exhaust stud. I tried everything but it wouldn't budge. So I decided to drill it out, well I drilled it out but not centered in the right place. I was going to use a Heli-coil but can't now because it isn't centered with the exhaust hole. I checked with a machine shop and they want $100.00 (1.5 hrs labor) to fill the hole, redrill and tap a new one. So to make a long story short, I went ahead and bought a new cylinder head and the valve cover o'ring and gasket for about $120.00. There is probably a lesson to learn but I don't know what is is yet I am going to start a new thread for my next problem

[arp35]

Well I finally pulled the frame out of the tub today I pressured washed both the tub and the frame. I then applied some rust remover on the frame and am letting it dry overnight. I will make some adjustments to the frame tomorrow and then paint it with black rustoleum. I do have one crossbar in the middle of the frame that is bent slightly. It is the same area where I removed the bent axle. I am guessing one of the previous owners must of hit the middle of the AATV against a tree or something. I will try to hammer it out. I am thinking about buying a shop press. Then I could use it to straighten the axle and perhaps that crossbar on the frame. I just don't know if I could get the frame up and positioned correctly. The shop press would have to open on one side to slide the frame inside. Unless there is a way to position it on the outside of the shop press using a steel jig. Does anyone know? Anyway, I am excited to finally have the frame out and cleaned of 30+ years of sand/dirt and lots of grease. The bearings I ordered are being delivered on Tuesday as well as the flange plates. With luck I hope to have the frame back together by next weekend and then I can start on the transmission. Let me know if someone has experience with a shop press and know of a way to lift the frame into a position so I can straighten the middle crossbar. Pictures attached...
Al

[Robinhood02]

I went through all your frame pics and i don't see the bent crossmember ?? you may want to leave it alone if it is kinked at all you may make it worse trying to staighten it, you may be better off with heating it with a torch and correcting it that way instead of cold press,

[Mike]

That's a good place to be in the restoration process. You are almost to the point of re-assembly and everything should go much smoother from here on out. The frame in my Max II was tweaked just a little and I ended up laying it on a level piece of concrete in the driveway (that took a while to find) and then I had someone stand on one end while I beat the frame straight at the other end with a sledge hammer. I placed a piece of wood over the frame so I wouldn't damage it with the hammer and beat it a little at a time moving around as I went until it was straight again.

[jerseybigfoot]

I have straightened frame members out with a bottle jack, 2 chains and a strong-back. You should put some plates under the frame to keep the u channels from collapsing. Put the bottle jack on the kink and the strong back on the bottle jack and chains around the strong back and frame rails.

[arp35]

Thanks for the suggestions. I measured the frame to check for squareness and it is only off by 1/8" in the area where the cross member is kinked. I am going to double check it again when I get the frame back in the tub. Then I'll trial fit the bearings and flange plates into that area and make sure it all fits and turns without binding, etc. I'll take a close up of the kink and post it tomorrow.
Al

[arp35]

I went through all your frame pics and i don't see the bent crossmember ?? you may want to leave it alone if it is kinked at all you may make it worse trying to staighten it, you may be better off with heating it with a torch and correcting it that way instead of cold press,

Here is a closeup of the bent area. It is actually twisted and not really out of whack too much. Should I just leave it like it is?

[Mike]

Is your whole frame bent a little? In that last picture it looks like the frame is bowed out where the twisted support is but that could just be the picture? If that's the case I would try to straighten it. Also, next to the twisted support above and below the hole for the axle the frame looks like it has rusted away a little or perhaps it has been pried against and marred up?

[arp35]

Is your whole frame bent a little? In that last picture it looks like the frame is bowed out where the twisted support is but that could just be the picture? If that's the case I would try to straighten it. Also, next to the twisted support above and below the hole for the axle the frame looks like it has rusted away a little or perhaps it has been pried against and marred up?

It is boogered up above and below the axle hole. I cannot really imagine how it happened. I think someone tried to straighten it earlier and in the process bent up the lip above and below the axle hole. Anyway, other than use a sledge hammer, is there a way to fix the kink?
I just took a straight edge and it is actually bowed in a little at the kink. It looks as if the roller bearing holder on that side is not straight. But the axle hole looks straight when compared to the inner axle hole. So I may try to bang out the roller bearing area to make it parrallel to the outer frame. What do you think?

[jerseybigfoot]

The square cross piece is not important to straighten out. The axle outer bearing should be parallel with the backbone and the frame looking at the side should be straight. Just make sure the cross piece is welded to the outer channel. My Hustler was worse and the outer channel cracked through. There is plenty of room in the tub to reinforce the channel flange. BTW the frame gets ripped up from the chain jumpping off the sprocket and lodging between the frame and sprocket. Not sure how the square tube bent.

[arp35]

The square cross piece is not important to straighten out. The axle outer bearing should be parallel with the backbone and the frame looking at the side should be straight. Just make sure the cross piece is welded to the outer channel. My Hustler was worse and the outer channel cracked through. There is plenty of room in the tub to reinforce the channel flange. BTW the frame gets ripped up from the chain jumpping off the sprocket and lodging between the frame and sprocket. Not sure how the square tube bent.

The crossmember is solidly welded to the frame and the side is straight. Should I weld some angle iron to strenthen the channel around the axle hole? The lip of the side is chewed up a bit around and near the axle hole.