Custom Steel Chassis Hustler

[shawngray66]

I do have an idea on the torsion. I have not yet modeled the carriage yet but I think there may be a solution to putting a torsion bar in advance of the axles then using a double u-joint with my bearing hub revised. Would be wider than stock but less than current design.

[shawngray66]

springer setup

One image is for a plastic mount with a backer plate.

[jerseybigfoot]

you are going to need to spline the axle to allow the U joint to operate a a different swing radius than your lower a arm. otherwise it similar to the old springer designs. some had the u joint at the center line of the A arm pivot. also hustlers have a large box on the drivers side to give the engine clutch clearance. this design lends itself better to an Argo ,Max , or Attex.

[shawngray66]

Jerseybigfoot

No spline needed. That is the secret sauce. The knuckle (bearing housing) holds an LM76 BullDog bearing that is very low friction and accommodates the rotational and linear movement. The solid bearing slides up and down the shaft without a mechanical bearing. These bearings are made to work in slurry's where traditional bearings would fail.

[kghills]

These bearings are made to work in slurry's where traditional bearings would fail.

On hard anodized shafts. On a standard 4140 axle shaft with no seal you may find you will not get the same results.

Keith.

[shawngray66]

Right. Going to use stainless on the outer shaft for that reason.

[Bw6]

Concepts

Just noticed this thread, worked on a few concepts of a suspended walking beam, trailing arm design for a custom 6x6, but never had time to pursue. A friend of mine (Marco in Switzerland) built an articulated swing arm 8x8 called the X-Cat. He used a salvaged Arctic Cat ATV for his drive system. He is a very talented craftsman. There are many YouTube videos of it in action.

Attached is a pdf of my concept dwgs and a video link to Marco's X-Cat.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=84Yi9Bh2v0g

[2gnospam]

Been bating this one around in my head for a while. How do we make a springer using as many OEM parts or low cost parts as possible? Use low cost lower A-arms from Speedway Motors, etc. Get junkyard uprights from a CIVIC or the like. Run an upper strut to the new roll cage for support. Use modified replacement CV axles like these where one side takes the place of current 6x6 axles in the tub (need to add bearings and mount chains) : http://www.rockauto.com/getimage/getimage.php?imagekey=2975874&imageurl=http%3A//www.rockauto.com/info/EMPI/80-2661.jpg

Tie the lower arms into the stock chassis at the bottom of the tub. Tie the struts into a plate that ties directly into the cage. Could have front and rear steering???? Each side could be drive by a conventional transmission with locking diff. Just some ideas.

[mudbug3]

shawngray66


I agree with BW6 that a walkin beam suspension is the way to go.

[shawngray66]

Kunzmm

Here are the photos of the rough design for the GA CV setup.

[kunzmm137]

Kunzmm

Here are the photos of the rough design for the GA CV setup.

I think this is a good start, the only problem I see with this design is that without an upper a-arm, the weight of the machine will compress the shock and tip the top of the tire in toward the tub. Either add an upper a-arm, or make the knuckle solid to the lower a-arm. Making a solid knuckle will make the camber of the wheel change throughout the suspension travel, but that shouldn't be a real problem, I have had 4 wheelers with the solid design, and they work fine.

[kunzmm137]

The walking beam/trailing arm suspension is a great concept. it would keep the width of the machine to a minimum vs a-arm setups. My only problem with it is that there would be more chains on the machine, and I am trying to eliminate chains from the design.

[thebuggyman1]

I would strengthen the design by using the 2bolt bottom half of the carrier on the top half also. Making the top and bottom the same. Then take supports back down to the "A" arm, preferably all the way back to the pivot at the tub. Raise the arm pivots to axle height, and space out to match the "U"joint, so pivots allign.
Then to ease the shock angle, relocate it to the bottom "A"arm
As your design is now, it will transfer wheel up/down force to the "U"joint. Your axle will become a lever, and stress, possibly break "U"joints.

[kunzmm137]

One more thing that I thought of (and I realize that you are still in design phase), keep in mind the depth of the wheels. Your knuckles, plus the thickness of your wheel bearing/ hub will have to be roughly 3 3/4"- 4" deep before the mounting points, due to the wheels being 8" wide, and only 7" or so clearance inside the diameter of the rim.

[shawngray66]

Kunzmm

Thanks for the help. Decided to go CV due to this Front GM Chevy Driver Side CV Axle Half Shaft Complete Hub Bearing Assembly | eBay. Complete CV shaft and hub for $66 ea.

Look this over. I have run some stress calcs on it and it looks pretty good. Seems to function well thru the simulations.