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My first Hustler!

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  • Dw89xj
    replied
    Is there any big benefit to running 530 chain over 50? Is it enough to justify the price difference? If so does anyone know the pin count for each chain? If it way outlasts 50 chain then 250ish bucks from manufacture supply doesn't seem too hateful. I was just going to order a big roll from Buffalo bearing since I have two machines to do but in my mind a motorcycle chain should do better since they're designed for higher power machines, maybe that doesn't matter too much though(?), Since a load is a load is a load. Maybe I'm over thinking and should just get the 50 and call it macaroni, but my goal is to be easier maintenance and longer intervals between replacement without having to puppy dog around everywhere.
    Edit- I removed the factory tensioners since I didn't have all of the pieces for them, and didn't really like them so as far as I can tell I shouldn't have any clearnce issues

    Also need to give props to hydromike everything lines up perfect with the tub and the axle/bearing holes all line up fine.
    Last edited by Dw89xj; 06-27-2020, 05:19 AM.

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  • Dw89xj
    replied
    I might have done good or might have done bad but the factory tensioners are gone except for the t20 chains and I cut off the factory e brake, it is still in good shape and someone could weld it on another hustler if wanted. Two of the tensioners could be reused the other two are a loss. Got my laterals cut and bent along with gussets and braces for other spots on the frame. I should be welding it all in the morning weather permitting and if my back doesn't give me trouble from going hard today. Transmission is rebuilt and assembled. I love the feeling of being on the downhill side, although martin made it easy on me since it was all disassembled and cleaned up. I still need to go through the ol briggs and make sure it's good to go. I found out hustler motor mounts are ten bucks apiece not for the set of 8. Since it was such a productive day I might just buy an axle from richards just to keep it rolling. I could use the not so good axle that has a wobble but I'm trying not to tear down til it's time for chains, at that point I'm probably going to have my buddy machine me some hdpe or uhmw bearing extension/ cages/ synthetic type deal.
    I did happen to find a crack, I was sad, it should be an easy fix, it's right near one of the front seat brace bolts. I think I can fix it no problem.
    Attached Files

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  • Dw89xj
    replied
    Now my question is has anyone had success with the snap idle tensioners in the tub? They're more expensive than to build my own tensioners but they seem simple as can be. Or are the hustler poly roller tensioners fine? Mine are froze but I can put new rollers on easy enough. I'm just wanting something simple since I have to remove the upper for any work I do anyway because if the wheelchair. It's a pain in the rear but it's the nature of the beast in my situation so I've learned to just treat it as part of the game. Gotta pay to play, I guess that doesn't always mean with money.

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  • dirtdobber
    replied
    Thank you for the offer but I have a spring to use already. I put a red spring in my 950 so I have the stock spring from it.

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  • Dw89xj
    replied
    Originally posted by dirtdobber View Post
    Dan, I suggest you run the spring I sent you in the 980. I have the green spring in mine now and it's way too slow. Green is one step below red. When I ran the clutch I sent you it was well balanced between low speed torque and ground speed. On the hustler you have to pull the trans to get the clutch off.
    That will do, I will just put one of the red springs in her 960 then until I can afford to change the main sprockets, or maybe she will like how it performs that way and I won't change anything other than 4 stroke and red spring. Thank you for the heads up. I might have a yellow spring if you want to try it, I'm not sure how it would act with the diesel. If I still have one I can box it up and get it sent out if you want to try it.

    Also got my drums! Yayy big strides in t20 stuff this week, just waiting on the seal kit then that party will get rocking.
    Last edited by Dw89xj; 06-22-2020, 03:09 PM.

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  • dirtdobber
    replied
    Dan, I suggest you run the spring I sent you in the 980. I have the green spring in mine now and it's way too slow. Green is one step below red. When I ran the clutch I sent you it was well balanced between low speed torque and ground speed. On the hustler you have to pull the trans to get the clutch off.

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  • Dw89xj
    replied
    I went ahead and messaged wfo about the drums and put a check in the mail, now I just wait til it clears on his end and il have my drums, also ordered master seal kit from richards, so my biggest piece, well most important imo will be done. My buddies shop was full and the weather wasn't looks ng promising on Friday so my welding was delayed again. No big deal I guess because I never picked up material to build my laterals, 'doh! I'm trying my damnedest to only put this one together once, well see how it works out. I also ordered two red sorings, not sure I will need them but I'm all about that stump pulling grunt and this thing will serve double duty as a work horse around the yard, within reason. The second spring is for my wife's 960

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  • Dw89xj
    replied
    Originally posted by dirtdobber View Post
    It's good that you have at least 5 good axles. On the 6th, is the wobble because the axle is bent, or is it because the wheel flange is bent or mounted crooked? The fact that its just a bit shorter won't hurt anything (it may be a problem with tracks, I don't know).

    As far as the sprocket bolt holes, I repair my own using some 1/4 inch flat bar. I drill a 3/8 hole and then cut it to size. Mount the sprocket tube on the axle, add the bolt and pieces of flat bar, and weld the pieces of flat bar to the sprocket tube. Mounting it keeps everything aligned, unless your axles are also egg shaped. Use your best axle.

    As for a drum, I saw a pair for sale at 6x6talk website.
    No it just appears it was slightly off when it was welded, it's better than I could do but, while it's apart, I may aswell do it right. I like that idea for repair the sprocket tubes, that will save some coin and one more thing I can keep an eye on to be sure it's exactly right. I will have to get over and check those drums out, I rarely check it out over there anymore because it seems even more quiet than over here.

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  • dirtdobber
    replied
    It's good that you have at least 5 good axles. On the 6th, is the wobble because the axle is bent, or is it because the wheel flange is bent or mounted crooked? The fact that its just a bit shorter won't hurt anything (it may be a problem with tracks, I don't know).

    As far as the sprocket bolt holes, I repair my own using some 1/4 inch flat bar. I drill a 3/8 hole and then cut it to size. Mount the sprocket tube on the axle, add the bolt and pieces of flat bar, and weld the pieces of flat bar to the sprocket tube. Mounting it keeps everything aligned, unless your axles are also egg shaped. Use your best axle.

    As for a drum, I saw a pair for sale at 6x6talk website.

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  • Dw89xj
    replied
    Well more good news for me, it appears only one axle of 6is bad. It looks like it was repaired before and has a wobble to it, it's also an 1/8" or so shorter from being repaired, I assume. It is the front right axle, but they all appear identical except the second holes not all being exact. The sprockets tubes on the other hand are not the best, not the worst but definitely will need attention before reassembling. Have any of you had luck with the repair washers from Richards or welding the holes shut and drilling new? I do not want to mess with the axles more than I need to as far as drilling or redrilling. Since I need one axle I'm just going to have a pair made for now. Thank you guys.

    Also I am still hunting the ever elusive 18 tooth drum if there are any leads.

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  • Dw89xj
    replied
    Despite the off and on rain all day yesterday, I managed to get all six tires mounted, and although crude, I knocked the centers out of the wheels that had plates welded in, I will clean these up before final assembly as the best tools I had on hand to complete this was a set of varibits and a sawzall, but in the end I was able to get the wheels to mount on my crappy little hf tire machine. These tires look like monsters compared to the 22x11-8 on my max ii, and I mocked the body up to match the holes in the wheels and must say it is very clear why it's called a bigfoot lol. I spoke with my best friend and just gonna hold off another two weeks or so to weld the frame, so hopefully he can get his spring gobbler. Then it will be on to big things.
    Which axles are you experienced big foot owners finding to be toughest to replace? I figured up that it will be right around $500 in materials for all 6 of the axles, then $35-50 an hour for my welder friends machining and welding expertise, but his work is always top notch and I've always felt good giving him my business. He might be able to get me cheaper prices on materials that's just prices I was finding on average nationwide.
    Last edited by Dw89xj; 05-23-2020, 09:19 PM.

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  • Dw89xj
    replied
    Originally posted by dirtdobber View Post
    If you're lucky its been sitting with the plug removed and hopefully things haven't been submerged. Transmission could be ok, but who knows. You're definitely looking at chains and probably bearings and tires. If that is a 2 stroke engine and you want to change over to a 4 stroke, you will either need a different drive clutch or modify the existing.
    It's a gamble, but except for meeting Martin for the big foot I've been couped up since October, that's why I figure if nothing else I will at least rude up and see Lake Erie and meet another 6x6er. I'm still keeping my fingers crossed. Unless I find a real good deal closer to home I'm gonna at least look at it.

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  • dirtdobber
    replied
    If you're lucky its been sitting with the plug removed and hopefully things haven't been submerged. Transmission could be ok, but who knows. You're definitely looking at chains and probably bearings and tires. If that is a 2 stroke engine and you want to change over to a 4 stroke, you will either need a different drive clutch or modify the existing.

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  • Dw89xj
    replied
    Pictures of possible parts/project

    More pics of possible parts/project machine. I hope it's worth picking up whether it's just for the t20 or if it's solid enough to save.

    It's hard for me to tell on my phone screen but the driven clutch looks to be a belt eater, I can't get a zoom in clear enough and the cracked up screen doesn't help.
    Attached Files
    Last edited by Dw89xj; 05-19-2020, 07:23 PM.

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  • Dw89xj
    replied
    Originally posted by dirtdobber View Post
    If that machine is all rusted, and the transmission is rusted to the point its stuck, then it probably isn't worth $600 or the road trip to get it. To make it a dependable machine you're looking at a complete overhaul - bearings, chains, frame inspection, transmission (and there's a good chance the drums are rusted beyond use), control cables, etc. You really need some good pics of this machine to see just how rusted it is. I'm not trying to discourage you, but I am trying to make sure you understand the reality of a rusted machine.
    That does all concern me, although, I don't mind a total restore. The transmission is what I am most worried about because it's really the big piece of the puzzle. And I guess two broken transmission are no better than one broken transmission.
    Any 6x6 near me that seem like a good deal are gone almost as soon as they get listed. I may have had a curse or a blessing by this member reaching out to me with this other hustler. I know my max was something that after I bought it I was in way over my head but pushed through til the end. It took alot longer than I wanted but it got done. I made alit of mistakes on that one and spent way too much money. It needed new frame rails bearings chains trans rebuild tires wiring harness and I did a 4 stroke swap. The axles and wheels were good though. But that transmission in this other machine does really concern me. The body looks to be in really decent shape though. I'm really hoping he will let me unhook the cable shift to see if the diamonds will move free and if I can get it to spin by hand.
    Attached Files
    Last edited by Dw89xj; 05-19-2020, 12:10 PM.

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