My first Hustler!

[Duck89]

So that's what the internal's of a complete hustler are supposed to look like! It all makes sense now! Mine did not look anything like that when I first got it

I forgot to put the center plate in that picture, but I do have it. I'll have to dig that out tomorrow and take a look at it. I appreciate the offer to cut a second grove into my lower plungers. I'll have to take you up on that I think. That reminds me - I need to send my bands out to have them relined. How to I go about taking those plungers off of the bands? I need to take the one off of my bad band and put it on the band JP gave me. (Thanks JP). Also, is that seal/gasket/fiber washer kit something that I need to get through RI or is there somewhere online I can get the parts? I already have the outer seals and the 2 large gaskets for the center so all I need are the internal parts I am replacing.

[hydromike]

Does anybody have any pictures of a 980 they could send me that show how the chains are routed?

Here are a couple good shots from the Hustler gallery.


These are pictures of a 900, but the chain routing is the same.



Okay, HERE are the shots of Reb's machine I was looking for. Again, this is a 950, but the routing is identical.



I see that your T-20 is the older style with 18-tooth drums and shift collars. When you go to get a drum, make sure you get the right tooth count. It was changed a long time ago to 9 teeth on the drums/plates/collars, and they seem to be more common now. You can always swap out to a 9 tooth collar/drum/plate on one side if you want, but I like both sides of my transmission to sound the same when I grind it into gear.

Other than a good cleaning and a seal/gasket/fiber washer kit, I think you're in pretty good shape. If you want me to cut you a second O-ring groove on your lower T-20 plungers, I can do that. I just did them for Newt's T-20 and they look good. Your output sprocket doesn't look THAT bad in the picture, but if you're in doubt, change it out. If you're anything like me, you'll NEVER want to yank the transmission out and take it completely back apart to replace that sprocket. This sure would be an excellent time to swap up to #60 primary sprockets.

::EDIT:: I also don't see your center plate in the picture. If you have it, are the ends of shafts where the drums ride in good shape? It looks like you have a couple of the dog-eared thrust washers in your pile of parts, but I can't tell if the ears are still on them. Sometimes, the ears will snap off and the thrust washer ends up spinning on the end of the center plate. They're hardened, so they chew up the plate pretty quickly, and it can end up causing a lot of in and out play on the T-20 input shaft. I have a couple T-20s that only used fiber washers instead of the thrust washers (no dog ear, so the center plate isn't machined for the ear to fit in it), but these fiber washers aren't included as standard equipment in the newer bearing and seal kit. Just something else to think about because I don't see it in the pictures...

[Duck89]

I also took a few shots of my awesome T-20. I know I am going to need one drum. What else does it look like I am going to need? (aside from about 2 gallons of degreaser)

In the first picture, it is hard to tell from that but in person, it appears to have a slight bit of shark-finning. Once I get it cleaned up, I will have a better idea of how bad it is, but from this picture, how bad does it look?

DSCN1561.jpg DSCN1558.jpg DSCN1555.jpgDSCN1554.jpg

[Duck89]

After purchasing a nice hustler frame (thanks Matt O), I have a newfound desire to get my Bigfoot going. Here are a few side-by-side shots of the old and new frames. I plan on using as many of the good parts off of the old frame as I can, such as the transmission mount, shift linkage and the raised seat structure. It's going to be a lot of cutting and welding, but it will be worth it.

Does anybody have any pictures of a 980 they could send me that show how the chains are routed? I think I may have to change a few things on the new frame because of the larger driver sprockets and the routes those chains will take.

DSCN1553.jpg DSCN1552.jpg DSCN1550.jpg DSCN1548.jpg

[ARGOJIM]

Bruschcutter think your right, was coming back to add the same thing, the smaller trencher/backhoe combination had them.

[brushcutter]

Glad to see you're making some progress. I think those oddball wheels are off a ditch witch, I seem to remember seeing an old one some years back with the solid centers. Not certain though. BTW did you ever call that Moneymaker guy.LOL

[Dan67]

I got my wheels from Silverstone mfg. They where closeouts 12x10.5 5 hole with open centers, they where $25 each. The center plate is heavy duty steel about 9/32" thick. Call them to see if they still have any..

Silverstone, Inc
4350 McKinley St.
Omaha, NE 68112
(402)-455-4910

[jpswift1]

These aren't K lock wheels. If they were they'd have KMM stamped on them. These were probably off of some sort of garden tractor or some kind of equipment like a smaller trencher or something. That kind of machinery shares the 5x4.5" bolt pattern.

[ARGOJIM]

Oh sorry, didn't notice no center hole.

[ARGOJIM]

They are most likely K-lock rims like used by Max, run the lug nuts backwards.

[Duck89]

I am going to be making the trip to the place I use for sandblasting on Saturday with some of the stuff for my hustler. On 2 of the six wheels, there are no center holes and the area around the 5 stud holes are 'flat' and not 'domed' like the other wheels. Any thoughts/comments on these wheels? Are these 2 wheels probably aftermarket replacements or were 2 wheels on these hustlers different? I just thought it was odd and am seeking clarification if anybody knows

The wheel(s) in question:

DSCN2455.jpg

The 'normal' wheel:

DSCN2447.jpg

All of the wheels. (you can see why they need sandblasting)

DSCN2461.jpg

[jpswift1]

Your upper will look like new again after we're done with it. In fact, your entire machine will look like new......you do good work!

http://www.6x6world.com/forums/content/252-remove-oxidation-hdpe-body.html

http://www.6x6world.com/forums/content/266-heatgun-body-repair-oxidation.html

[Duck89]

Man Jeff, that's crazy how nice that white spot clean up on your machine by using just a heat gun! My upper is going to need a bit of work to look my lower, which I think is still in quite decent shape.

Mike - Yes, unfortunatley the carnage does extend to the chain adjuster bracket. I hope to lift the frame out on Saturday to get a better look at it. I'll also be able to get a better look at may axles, too. I am curious to see what condition they are in.

[hydromike]

Oh baby, your front-right side rail is toast. Does the rusted out section extend to the chain adjuster bracket? It looks like there's mild to moderate carnage on the inside of the center rail, as well. Eh, it's just metal.... Metal's cheap. I've been getting lot of my mild steel up at Lake Winds Steel up on Route 18, between 98 and 63. It's a small, Amish-owned shop and they've got a great inventory, and their prices are really competitive. It's worth it just to go up and see an entire diesel-over-pneumatic-run machine shop.

I see that either Hustler or a past-owner has reenforced the front chain adjusters (where the 1" square tubing is laid on its side and welded to the Unistrut). That'll help a bunch. Some good stiffening of the transmission mount, and an extra brace or two to hold the top of the transmission in its cradle will go a long way, too. It seems the transmissions always want to walk right out of the mounts on these machines. I'll be interested to see if your axles are worn at all. The axles on mine were some reasonably hard material, but they still wore out quite a bit where the outer bearings ride. If the tolerance isn't tight enough, you'll keep breaking the races beneath the eccentric locking collars. Before I knew just *how* tight they needed to be, I wasted a lot of money on nice triple-sealed bearings. I ended up welding up the offending areas and turning them back down to the right diameter on three of them. The front two axles I just said effit and "4140'd" them. When I win the lottery, I'll do the other 4....

[jpswift1]

Martin, we can help you get that frame looking like new again. It seems like the battery tray will need to be replaced and the lower "L" shaped bend on the right front frame rail can be repaired and stiffened up and made stronger than it was when it was new. No worries at all, you're in good shape. Get the frame out and Drew, Mark, and Mike and I can help you get it squared away. I've had frames that were worse than this one, you'll be in good shape. Once we get the new steel welded on there, a good sandblasting will put you right where you need to be. While you're waiting, start soaking all the axle pins in penetrating oil to help free everything up for you this weekend when you go to yank the frame out.

I keep looking at the first pic of it on the trailer, and I can tell that thing is going to be nice when you're done with it! It has lots of potential. Don't get discouraged, this is how mine looked when I bought it, sight unseen down in Alabama: