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My first Hustler!

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  • #76
    Before I spend 350 bucks on chain and links, is there any reason I can't use 530 chain? My sprockets look spaced out enough to me and I no longer have any factory tensioners except for the t20 chains.
    DanW

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    • #77
      Dropped a bunch of coin on the hustler this week. But I'm down to little dumb stuff and all the major stuff is bought. As soon as I get this welding done it should be short work to get this baby rolling on its own. 530 chains and links ordered mfg supply, 1 Richards axle, 7 more motor mounts to complete the set also from Richards. Drums courtesy of WFO. All the bolts for inner and outer bearings. If TSC is open when I get off work tonight I'll buy all new axle and sprocket tube bolts and a couple idlers for my t20 chains, I'm not sure if it's supposed to be sliders or rollers to keep the t20 chains off the frame or what but it's getting rollers on bottom too. Working on redesigning the shifter so it's not jamming in the back of my leg or having my leg rest against it when driving. Just something simple from 1/4" flat bar against the left side, so if anyone is in need of a factory shifter and link I will have it available in the next few weeks. Still undecided on a split shifter setup or just let it single shifter.
      DanW

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      • #78
        Split shifter idea simple and easy
        Attached Files
        DanW

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        • #79
          Laterals built, welding done, if it's nice tomorrow the transmission is going in the frame and I'm going to start bolting in axles bearings and sprockets and routing chains. I swear though, Everytime I think I'm done buying bolts I need to buy more bolts lol. A couple cuts and drill a few holes for my shift linkage and my split shift will be kind of done. I got cool guy shift knobs for them so that's going to be a surprise for later. Some rust-oleum to seal it all up and I'm almost able to ride.
          DanW

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          • #80
            Sounds like you are making good progress. This is hard to do, but don't take any shortcuts just to hurry up and take that first ride.

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            • #81
              Originally posted by dirtdobber View Post
              Sounds like you are making good progress. This is hard to do, but don't take any shortcuts just to hurry up and take that first ride.
              The engine is going to slow progress, I can't decide in just rebuilding the opposed twin or go ahead pick up one of these 27 horse kohler's and rebuild it, then I should be able to hang with my wife and the vanguard I just picked up for her. I was on midwest super cubs site and it looks like you can build a monster from a Kohler v twin, I don't need anything crazy but the extra power I think would go good in the Bigfoot. I have done small stuff still coming like grips, a couple more idler sprockets since I found one of the t20 adjuster sprockets is froze, throttle cables and fuel pumps, some parts are doubles I need for my wife's to get her going. I'm praying I don't need to get into her transmission but so far I'm batting 0 for 2 on starting with a good trans.
              DanW

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              • #82
                New question guys, on my inner bearings, it looks like I will have barely enough to get the locking collar on the end of the axle if I face the cam lock toward the middle, the Richards axle, however, looks like it has plenty of room to run the collar toward the outside. How do you guys do it? Collars in>< collars out<>?
                DanW

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                • #83
                  .
                  Attached Files
                  DanW

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                  • #84
                    Dan on the Hustlers I have seen have a different inner bearing, one that has two set screws for locking purposes, and no concentric collar. Can you exchange yours?

                    On another note let me share a little tip. On both of my machines I added a layer of protection to make sure the axles don't slip. I place a short piece of tubing over the axle between the outer bearing and the sprocket tube. The axle cant slip inward because of the shoulder on the inner bearing. It can't slip outward because the sprocket tube is against the piece of tubing which is against the outer bearing. You must wait until final assembly to do this. Assemble the axle and sprockets, and take a piece of wire and cut it to approximate length. With needle nose pliers, fit the wire between the sprocket tube and outer bearing race (about 3/4 inch). Cut the wire as needed until you get a tight fit. Then use the wire as a guide to cut the tubing to length. Assemble with the tubing and plan on fine tuning the tubing for a good fit. You need a tiny bit of clearance in the tubing to avoid lateral thrust on your bearings. Chain link fence tubing is the perfect inside diameter.

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                    • #85
                      dan .. can you turn the bearing the other way on the axle so the cam lock collar is on the '' inside of the axle '' ? is that what you were thinking ? if you have the room i'm not sure why it won't work . i have some that way on my max 2 highboy . works just as good . j.b.

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                      • #86
                        These are the new inner bearings that Martin sent with it, I can't remember if it was the innets or outers he said were kind of a pain to find. But on the plus side I suppose I could call up buffalo bearing and give them this part number and see if they have something with a set screw. I like your idea of for putting tube over the axles.
                        I was working on pre assembly outside of the tub to make sure I route the chains right and locate the sprockets right and also work on chain adjusters, I have two snap idles but the rear chains doesn't seem like much room to run snap idles style, so I'm going to try to make something with an adjustment/ locking bolt and set of idler sprockets I ordered to come up with rear tensioners. Since I decided to go with the Kohler command v twin I'm going to be picking at the Bigfoot longer than originally expected, but I might still be done in time for archery season. If not at least I know it's going to be a good solid machine and I didn't cut any corners and did it right.
                        My split shifters seem to work pretty well, I need to cut the levers shorter after it's in the tub and the seat is made so I can see how short I can go. I will have to get in and out the right side because of how I made my shifters but it beats fighting the metal in my back to reach down to the floor almost to shift from forward or to put it in forward. I doubt up ever need to use counter rotate but man does the split shift make it easier. I just spin the clutch and keep pressure on either lever and it seems to go in gear fine. The factory easy shift style setup seems to help alot too to keep from jamming in gear. It works good on the sawhorses bench testing but we will see what happens.
                        I wish the axles were cheaper , I'm too tight to replace them all right now but the Richards axle definitely has enough room to run the lock collars. Either way il be on the horn with buffalo to see if they can help me out.
                        Thanks for the tips and helping me out. Another road trip on Saturday and hopefully I'm done running for parts for these two machines, but we know it never works that way lol I will probably find another good deal on something 7 hours away in another month hahaha.
                        DanW

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                        • #87
                          Originally posted by john swenson View Post
                          dan .. can you turn the bearing the other way on the axle so the cam lock collar is on the '' inside of the axle '' ? is that what you were thinking ? if you have the room i'm not sure why it won't work . i have some that way on my max 2 highboy . works just as good . j.b.
                          I was wondering about this but the collar doesn't get a full bite, it's probably about an 1/8" maybe 3/16" that the collar grabs the end of the axle. But if I try to run them facing out the end of the axle isn't fully supported. Not sure if it would be good enough? May be fine but I'd rather take you guys with much more experience advice.
                          Attached Files
                          DanW

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                          • #88
                            I will get more pictures tomorrow, I'm taking it easy today, I'm having alot of nerve pain and spasms in my back.
                            DanW

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                            • #89
                              yea..lot's of bending over working on these machines . is that bearing on the axle not the wheel side , but the other end ? i guess i'm not too familiar with hustlers ..so i'm not sure why you can't flip the bearing over in the flange so the collar is not on that short side of the bearing , but on the long part of the axle. maybe it's not that type of flange . maybe i'll understand after some more pics . j.b.

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                              • #90
                                Originally posted by john swenson View Post
                                yea..lot's of bending over working on these machines . is that bearing on the axle not the wheel side , but the other end ? i guess i'm not too familiar with hustlers ..so i'm not sure why you can't flip the bearing over in the flange so the collar is not on that short side of the bearing , but on the long part of the axle. maybe it's not that type of flange . maybe i'll understand after some more pics . j.b.
                                It's the inner end toward the center of the frame, hustlers axles are longer than max I think. There's enough extra sticking past if I put the collars toward the middle it would lock on about an eight inch of axle, I can get a full lock on the axle if I run the center collars facing out buuuuttt, then the axle is riding fully in the bearing only about half to two thirds of the end of the axle is in the bearing if that makes sense, it's a little confusing to try to explain too lol. Im going to get in touch with buffalo and if they can't help me I'm going to see if my welder friend can duplicate the Richards axle, the end of it is machined enough I could almost double up bearings on the inner so the collar could go toward the center or towards the wheel.
                                DanW

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