My first Hustler!

[dirtdobber]

Just a couple of thoughts - As far as turning the bearing around so the lock collar faces the outboard side, make sure this doesn't throw the chain alignment off (center axle to the T20). If it doesn't I would not be concerned about the axle running in only 2/3rds of the bearing race.

If you have to modify the axle, have your welder buddy just drill and tap the end. Use a bolt and washer and you won't need a lock collar on the inner bearing. This would be cheaper than extending the axles.

[Dw89xj]

Just a couple of thoughts - As far as turning the bearing around so the lock collar faces the outboard side, make sure this doesn't throw the chain alignment off (center axle to the T20). If it doesn't I would not be concerned about the axle running in only 2/3rds of the bearing race.

If you have to modify the axle, have your welder buddy just drill and tap the end. Use a bolt and washer and you won't need a lock collar on the inner bearing. This would be cheaper than extending the axles.

I was worried about this myself, that's another of the reasons I'm doing a preassembly before final assembly. I'm glad you mentioned drilling and tapping the ends of the axles because that had crossed my mind also. He could Chuck it up and make all the holes perfect then as I break or bend axles I can have him make them to match Richards style or just buy Richards. I think I can get my buddy Merv to make them from something stronger for the same price, he builds alot of attachments for equipment and fabs undercarriage parts for dozers and stuff. I'm gonna swing by and talk to Merv this afternoon and see what he's going charge me. Hopefully it all works out I can get this thing preassembled in the next couple days and figure my chain tensioners for the rear and any other obstacles. Then I can pull it all back apart and have the joy of working in the tub lol. If my drill press was about a foot taller I could drill them and tap them myself but I know if I handrill it's not going to be perfect and I'm trying to stay off of hack status.

[john swenson]

another thought..looking at the picture with the locking collar on..instead of drilling and tapping a hole in the end of the axle , what about tack welding a bolt the right length to the end of the axle ( the head of the bolt tacked to the axle ) then use a washer and lock nut . one question .. is the allen screw in the collar tightening down on the axle good ? just fun throwing out a few more ideas . johnboy va.

[john swenson]

if the locking collar is securing on the axle so the axle is tight on the bearing..then if your thinking the axle could possibly pull out of that bearing , then if you have enough room you could put a 2 piece clamping collar on the axle right up against the inside of the wheel bearing . this would keep the axle from pulling out of that inside bearing . i actually put clamping collars on both sides of my sprockets and up against each bearing locking collar as a extra measure. j.b.

[Dw89xj]

if the locking collar is securing on the axle so the axle is tight on the bearing..then if your thinking the axle could possibly pull out of that bearing , then if you have enough room you could put a 2 piece clamping collar on the axle right up against the inside of the wheel bearing . this would keep the axle from pulling out of that inside bearing . i actually put clamping collars on both sides of my sprockets and up against each bearing locking collar as a extra measure. j.b.

I still have to get some better pictures for you. Today was another long expensive day, but I got to meet some more cool 6x6ers, thanks guys for helping me out today.

[Dw89xj]

I recently acquired some short tub 980 sprockets, the big sprocket isn't alot bigger than the final drive sprockets, if I were to run these instead of the big pizza pans, what kind of performance should I expect? I also picked up a 27 horse Kohler that's in the process of being rebuilt and some upgrades so I won't be low on power. I guess I could switch back and forth too? Maybe with the Kohler it won't matter running the smaller sprockets? I like the low end power but I can't have my wife completely blowing my doors in, or top off in this case, and I know hers should scoot along pretty good with the 18hp vanguard and about 200 bucks thrown into it.

[Dw89xj]

Well after stabbing and pulling and switching and flipping sprockets, I think I have them in the right order and all the chains running straight. The axles did indeed want to be stuck the whole way in and collars toward the center. The Richards axle as I suspected didn't matter because there's over 2 inches of the end machined. I put the brand new Richards axle on the left rear, it seemed to me to be most likely to be a PITA in the future if it were bent or broken, the rest are a mixture of my best axles and Cory's best axles and I should have enough for my wife and a couple spares if someone were in need, but like I said I'm using the best of what I have available on our machines. Got the Kohler tore down all but the governor, midwest super cub crank gear ordered, replacement stock cam, and valve springs that should let me rev to 5000 if I wanted to. I'm going to try and hold off on that until I save up for the second phase of the engine build when it comes back out, but I talked to a gentleman with a stock ch18 says his has over 40 hours of race time at 500p+rpm and it's all stock internals.im not sure if I want to roll those dice or go ahead and drop the 250 couple bucks on billet rods for self assurance. Oh I forgot to mention during teardown, the crank gear is what took out the cam, it was cracked and spun on the crank, valves barely kissed the carbon on the pistons but it was enough to strip teeth off the cam. Waiting in my rebuild kit and upgrade parts and hones and stuff to finish it then tear down the wife's vanguard and hopefully a soft rebuild and rev kit and cam is all she will need that will save a couple bucks.
I found where 530 chain has a clearance issue and it will be getting dealt with as well as building a chain adjusters setup for the rear. The front has plenty of room for snap idles the rear isn't so forgiving. But anyways the bottom front right corner of the transmission mount and bottom of the right side t20 chain adjusters is the only clearance problem I'm finding using 530 chain. All I really need to do is trim the square tube and the bracket off the frame where a slider or something once resided. I have a simple design in mind but I need to gather some more parts. I'm also going to add an extra idler to the t20 chains to get a better wrap on the gears and help get some of the bottom of the chain up away from the rear drive chain to help create more clearance for my rear tensioner idea. I can't decide on a spring loaded design or just use an adjuster bolt. Auto adjusting will be nice but manual gives more reason to check more often and not get lazy about it. So close I can almost feel the 25 mph breeze in my hair while the Kohler screams away at 4500 to 5 grand. My neighbors love me hahaha! After I get comfortable I might switch my pizza pans for Cory's middle sprockets to see how much grunt I lose, if any with the Kohler, and how fast I can go, maybe not I'm not sure yet. I'm used to going about 6mph the last 6 years so 25 will probably scratch my itch for awhile.

[Dw89xj]

Went ahead and ordered billet rods. Now I'm not worried about the bottom end when I'm holding it at 5 grand +/- for long periods. Also got the heavier valve springs. I read the stock cams don't handle high spring pressure for long before flattening out. We will see I bought the zach kerber valve springs for the 5000 and under engines. Either way it should last until I pick out a better cam. I'm trying to get a grind that's good to 4500-5000. I thought I wanted to rev to 6 but I think that's just a bit excessive right now. But I guess as long as I put good stuff in the bottom and gave my clearances right I will have room to grow when I'm ready. The engine is turning out to be the most expensive piece of the puzzle for the Bigfoot. Thankfully my wife's vanguard will be cheaper as long as no machine work us involved

[Dw89xj]

Oh boy I'm getting in deep, just ordered a cam from lakota, wife's gonna wring my neck

[Dw89xj]

I really shouldn't have but I bought some bling for my Kohler. And it will match the Bigfoot.

[Dw89xj]

Is anybody on here making hustler decals? Getting down to the nitty gritty, will have final product pictures soon....

[dirtdobber]

Hey Dan. Search the threads for "hustler decal". It has been discussed before. I need to get some myself.

[Dw89xj]

Hey Dan. Search the threads for "hustler decal". It has been discussed before. I need to get some myself.

How many do you need? If I can acquire some il gladly send some your way.

[Dw89xj]

The end is in sight! If there ever is an end, I have quite a list of things I want to do for personal mods.
I found my accelerator pump to be frozen, then upon further inspection it was rotted off under the diaphragm. The guy who previously owned this engine must've really neglected it. I cleaned probably a pound and half of dirt and oil out of the cooling fins and backside of the flywheel, I didn't know there was enough room to pack that much dirt in there. Oh well it's all nice and fresh now, just waiting to order my worked over carb from zach Kerber machine and design. I redesign my laterals and shifters already, the shifters need a little more work but will do their job for now. Went to town for a couple hours with the heat gun, she likes like a different machine. Thank you guys for the help and support along the way. Keeping my fingers crossed to get it in the woods for PA rifle season.

[dirtdobber]

Looking good!