adjusted chains, r/r idlers

[ygmir]

Hi all,
well,
in the ongoing process of getting my Hustler in shape....

I ended up taking a link out of two of the chains to get enough adjustment to actually tighten them. they are both the front axle drive chains, l and r.
The p.o. had put new chains on, but, it would seem got them a little long......the tensioners were at thier max.
I also noticed on one that it didnt sit square with to the chain.....The only fix I came up with, and, it worked, was to grind the grooves in the clamping nut deeper at one end, so, it would pull down on the clamp, lowering the outside of the bolt, and, making it square.......

I also noticed that the holes in the sprocket mounting tubes were oblong. They seemed on purpose that way, though, since, there is a cast "ring" in the same shape around it.....the holes in the axles are just fine and round.
And, it seems the bolts don't tighten on the tube, but, the nut hits the shoulder of the smaller diameter thread to shaft area.

does this sound right?
I'm new to this, and, don't find it addressed in the info I've looked through here in the archives.......

Now, to tackle the electrical stuff..........

[Russh]

chains

A word of advise, On my husler, the chains were stretched to the point I had to take out links, I also put in a RED spring to the chutch, giving me huge amounts of low end, as soon as I got out trying the new spring, I found my self stranded with a 2 chains broken. Snapped under extreem force! 10 feet of new chain is only 15$ farm&fleet. and they will be more rigid, they will 'track' from gear to gear straighter keeping you from throwing a chain off. I have been replacing the NASTY nylon rollers, with the same gear chain tentioner found on max-4, works 100% better!

[jpswift1]

I have been replacing the NASTY nylon rollers, with the same gear chain tentioner found on max-4, works 100% better!

That is a great idea! I always liked the idler sprocket design found on some machines. Now that you brought it up I think I am going to do the same mod on my Hustler in the very near future.

[ygmir]

yeah,
I like the idea of the tensioner sprockets, too.
When I ordered the new rollers, the fellow I talked to didn't seem to think it was a good idea, and, convinced me otherwise......
I may convert at some time, though, especially if you do it and report good sucess......

I don't think my chains are very old, the PO said they were "new", and, I checked them when off for side sag. Pretty good shape, not much sag at all. I think he just didn't want to be bothered with a hard install, so, made them a little long and put the idlers at almost full adjustment.
I also think that because each chain has a couple of removable links.....and half links......

Any thoughts on my reference to the oblong holes in the sprocket mounts/axles, referenced below?

Red clutch spring?
Can you help me with that? I'm very new to these, and, this clutch/drive system. I know I'd rather have low end than top.........
Which "clutch" does that go on? If I use the term correctly.......
there's one at the engine, one on the T-20......

Also:
How tight should the belt be when sitting? Mine seems pretty loose. I know it needs to be somewhat loose to idle freely, but, just wondering how much?
Is there and adjust ment, or, is that done by the springs internally?

sorry for all the questions, probably general knowledge.......I'm learnin' fast, though.......grin......

thanks

[Russh]

I'm new too

The "hole" in the sprocket 'if I'm thinking of the right thing' ,this hole should have a shear bolt through it, if you were bound up "sayin logs" the bolt would give before some else that cost$$$ alot more. the t-20 can put alot of power to the drive train instantly!!! You came rev the motor all the way, then push you controls forward. This has the same efect as a high school kid "poping" the clutch on a 4 cylinder car; some thing is going to brake!!! I tell anyone running my unit: controls forward, slowing give it throttle. MY MACHINE MY RULES. if the holes are to ablong, a gear, or axle, or both may need to be replaced, MAY-BE you could drill to the next size??? Belt-wise oppions vary, I have mine so that idoaling in nuetrol both 1 and 2 clutchs are turning. As soon as I push forward, no trottle, the 2nd clutch stops. Spring-wise I resurched here, and found alot of help, 6x6 world is full of people you want to help THANK YOU, anway yellow spring is for light duty, green is for all around general use, red is for extreem ****!!! I went red and love it. This info is my trial and erros, but is works for me. Hope I helped

[ygmir]

when you talk about colored springs, which clutch, engine or trans?
sorry if I missed that somewhere......

Is the adjustment for the drive belt, just a different size belt? Or, am I missing something, again.....

darn this being new at stuff........
and, the manual doesn't seem to cover this.........

[Russh]

you have to start some where

As far as I know you have to buy different belts. The spring is in the secondairy clutch, locatted on the trans.

[ygmir]

ok, thanks.
I'll check to see what spring I have, and, then, get a red one......Where did you get it?

Thanks for all the info, Russh

[Russh]

max parts

RECREATIVE INDUSTRY, I don't know the phone no# look around here on 6x6 world , some one has it.

[mudbug3]

red is for extreem ****!!! I went red and love it. This info is my trial and erros, but is works for me.

Russh ,

I went to the red spring , and so did Dan ( aka mightymaxIV ) on our Max IV,s , and we both love the low end torque we gained . The red spring replaces the green spring on the Transmission . The red spring also allows you to have a much quicker take off on the bottom end . Its all good ! If its more low end torque you,re wanting ,, then the red spring is for you .