how do i fix my hustler?

[Stonewall]

I understand that I'm suppost to put limited slip treatment in the t-20, but I bought a tube yesterday and it says on the back "NOT FOR USE IN ATF APPLICATIONS." Should I still use it or do I have the wrong stuff?

[countrycummins99]

do not use it that for rear ends in trucks with limited slip diffs call recreatives and order the stuff they have its not expensive i looked and couldnt find any plain antislip for atf anywhere around here

[Stonewall]

Would Lucas transmission additive work? I have alot of that sittin around...

[brushcutter]

Any good parts store should carry GM limited slip additive, most folks use it, and it's not costly.

[Stonewall]

I took apart my trans today to try and fix the leak, but all of the O-rings were intact, and all the bores looked good. I guess when I put it back together I'll use slightly larger O-rings. When I took it apart I found some worse problems than leakage. The end of the band retainer pin that holds the band on the inside drum was bent. Said band also had the friction material completly gone in a large area. I'm not sure if it's the cause of all these problems, but the drum that band was around had some rust on it. I don't know what to do at this point, I can't afford a $90 band rite now...

[micmac]

Tough to tell from the picture but it looks like the drum might be scored. Hopefully not but if that's the case might be big $

[Stonewall]

It's not scored, but it has rust on it. Is the rust what caused my band to wear like that? I'm just wondering what caused it to do that so it won't happen again.

[Mike]

Sorry that you found so much carnage. You will definitely need a new band and like micmac said, a drum too since it appears to be scored. The plus side is that, if you will look in the transmission forum here on the site, there are several threads showing where you can get the band relined instead of having to buy a new one. That will save you some money. You can also post a wanted ad in the classifieds for a used T20 drum. You never know what other members have lying around.

Edit: Sorry, I didn't see your latest post while I was replying. If it is just surface rust, you can probably get that off but as to what caused that, I don't know. With the bent pin, the bands may have been touching the drum unevenly causing the material to wear off. Then the metal on metal contact allowed moisture to go to work.

[Stonewall]

Thanks for all y'alls help. I'm still at a loss for what bent the pin like that; we'll probably never know...

[mark m.]

One thing you can consider is if the drum rust pitting and scoring is not too deep it can be machined of to reveal a fresh surface for the new band. Surface finish should be smooth not rough. .010" to .015" and maybe more off the diameter is ok.

[Stonewall]

The messed up band is going UPS to Transmission Crafters tomorrow, so I guess all I need is a new band pin. Never did figure out why it was leaking out that plunger... Anybody got a spare t-20 band pin laying around??

[Stonewall]

I now have new case gaskets, plunger O-rings, a resurfaced brake band, and an unbent band pin(thanks racerone!!)... I took the rusty drum to the machine shop Friday. The guy put a caliper on it, and it was about .01 out of round.... so I told him to make it round again and we'll see how much different from the other one it is. I have a sneaking suspicion that this was the source of my troubles.

[racerone3]

Every drum I've looked at is out of round to some degree. Check your plunger bores for scratches. If you find any, it can sometimes be polished out with a brake hone, then fine grade scotch brite. If there is a scratch it will leak no matter the condition of the O-rings.

[Stonewall]

If it's necessary to hone the plunger bores, do I need to continually move the hone in and out to get the cross-hatch pattern like on an engine; or is it OK to just smooth out the rough area in no particular pattern?

[racerone3]

I always keep the hone moving. I do the same with scotchbrite (I have a 3/8" rod with a slot cut in the end to put the scotchbrite in). Once I have it as smooth as I can get it, I will take some aluminum polish to the insides of the bores. not sure if that last step is really needed, but it gives the plungers a nice surface to seal against