Axle help with Buffalo

[tonyk72]

I found pieces of the outer bearing inside the tub that got me started on this... This Buffalo has the splined axle's with the two set screws in the locking collar. I blew off all the crud and cleaned it up, took both set screws out, soaked everything in WD-40 and applied a little heat to the locking collar and I still can't seem to get the axle out. It should slide out at this point, right? Do I need to remove the inner bearing flange? Am I missing something? Here are some pics of my progress...

[ARGOJIM]

[QUOTE=tonyk72;156485]I found pieces of the outer bearing inside the tub that got me started on this... This Buffalo has the splined axle's with the two set screws in the locking collar. I blew off all the crud and cleaned it up, took both set screws out, soaked everything in WD-40 and applied a little heat to the locking collar and I still can't seem to get the axle out. It should slide out at this point, right? Do I need to remove the inner bearing flange? Am I missing something? Here are some pics of my progress...




yes the c inner collar has to come off also.

[tonyk72]

Oh, I forgot to mention I also removed the single 9/16" bolt from the end of the axle too.

What is the c inner collar?

[ARGOJIM]

sorry typo, collar from inner bearing also. Just like on outside, after set screws are out collar needs to be hit with a punch one way or the other to loosen unless there is no locking collar

[twinlakemike]

I like "PB blast" for freeing up rusted parts, you can get it at auto zone.

[tonyk72]

sorry typo, collar from inner bearing also. Just like on outside, after set screws are out collar needs to be hit with a punch one way or the other to loosen unless there is no locking collar

OK, That makes sense but there is no divit for the punch on the collar. I'm afraid that if I use one of the holes where the set screws go that I'll damage the threads. I do see a divit on the splined axle (you can see it in the first pic). But I don't that that'll do me any good.

[countrycummins99]

do your bearings have eccentric collars or are the collars attached to the bearing? make sure all set screws are loose then make yourself a slide hammer and bolt it to the lugs and use it to pull the axle and if you have to use a penetrant i would use AEROKROIL makes PB blaster look like water lol

[msafi65]

The inboard bearing in the pic is a set screw only bearing. No locking collar. I'm betting you end up unbolting the inner flange and breaking the outer race with a hammer. Cover the bearing with cloth to keep pieces from hitting you. Then split the inner race with dremel or small cut off wheel. I have a puller with two 1" screws and sometimes the inner just won't pull. I've been using home brew penetrating oil mix 50% ATF and acetone. It is the best Ive ever used, NOT around open flame! Good luck getting that axle out n getting back running.

[ARGOJIM]

I'm wondering if you have removed the set screws from the sprockets, sometimes they have 2 set screws stacked on top of each other. If the sprocket won't move the axle will not come out either.

[tonyk72]

I'm wondering if you have removed the set screws from the sprockets, sometimes they have 2 set screws stacked on top of each other. If the sprocket won't move the axle will not come out either.

You beat me to my next question...I managed to break the axle free from the collar with the use of a slide hammer and Liquid Wrench, but now the sprocket is holding me up. I'll look for the set screws next...The sprocket is pretty rusted, I hope I can find them. One I get past this, how will the sprocket slide past the collar on the axle? Will it just pop off?

[msafi65]

The set screws will be in line with the dimples in a spline I believe I see one in your pic. I think your buff trk will be only one setscrew some had two in one hole. Yours looks rusty to me could be trouble. With luck you will save the axle and sprocket. Even if you have to cut the axle I think the sprocket is salvageable and will go onto the newer axle with snaprings. I have found some drill bits made by BadDog that will drill an easy out and setscrews like nothing to it. I heat the hubs red around the setscrews to get the screws out. Takes a lot of heat , put water in the tub before heating the hub. Hope you don't have to cut the axle but it's quick.

[tonyk72]

Things are not going my way...I broke the tip of my hex wrench off in the head of the set screw. I'm thinking I could drill a small hole in the tip, thread in a machine screw, heat it up so I get some extra bite on the screw and just yank it out with a pair of pliers along with the broken tip. I want to try using the hex wrench again since I managed to get a few turns and I think I can back it out enough to pull the sprocket.
I think this will work, but my only problem is I can't get a good angle with the drill since the jackshaft above is in the way. I removed all 8 nuts holding it in place, but I can't slide it out. How do I go about getting this out?

Edit- Got the jackshaft out...But I can't easily drill though the tip of the hex. I'm worried I'll just break the drill bit. I think I'll just try to drill the whole thing out. I'm using cobalt drill bits, but they aren't doing too well.

[ARGOJIM]

I haven't seen the drive line of a Buffalo in 10-12 years but if they are anything like a max2 there should be cotter pins holding the shaft in the carriers, remove the cotter pins and slide shaft inwards to remove the jack shafts.

[msafi65]

Check out drills at baddogtools.com. They will drill a broken easyout and if you break it they replace for $2.50. The tips of the setscrews are hard also and don't drill well. Good luck

[tonyk72]

I ordered some left hand cobalt drill bits made by Irwin and some drill bit guide bushings from OTC. The bushings will help keep the bit centered...I just hope they fit. The description on the kit didn't list sizes but included pics. I've been applying heat and PB in the meantime to try and loosen things up. The tools should arrive tomorrow.