Max II Axle

[Eldon]

After a losing battle with a broken set screw on the center sprocket,I had to cut the old axle to get it apart. I ordered a new axle and sprocket with the new snap ring design from Muddox. I placed my order through Buffalo and gave the machine's serial number. I received my new parts yesterday but to my shock and dismay further difference than the snap ring versus set screw sprocket design I discovered when unpacking that the end of the new axle is turned down from 1 1/4" to appx. 1 1/16" from the end of the axle for about 1 3/8". Clearly my inner bearing will not work as it is 1 1/4" inner race. My inner bearing number is SA 206 20 G . Does anyone have any experience with the new solid splined axles as it either will not work or there is some type of new inner bearing.

[msafi65]

The inner bearing is # 17 or 1 1/16. I believe the insert is a 206 17 narrow race set screw locking. Did you get any shims that just fit on the end of the axle and a lot with heavy washer for the inner end of the axle? I'll look up the proper insert # if someone dosent fill in that part.

[Eldon]

Your message is really appreciated. I got two snap rings and a .060 and .090 sprocket shims as well as the sprocket and axle. the #17 you quote sounds dead on to my calculations for a bearing number. Hopefully I can get a bearing number. The one I have/had (I am putting in new bearings while that axle is tore down though they were not real old) is for 1 1/4" or is a SA-206-20 G. It would appear probably I need a number bearing something like a SA-206-17 G possibly? I was really discouraged until I got your message MSAFI65, it sounds like I may survive this yet. Many thanks.

[msafi65]

If you email me I'll attach the max2 chassis manual. They should have sent end shims that are used to align chains and space from the shoulder on axle to bearing. You need to set the sprocket end play to about .010" with the shims to snapring. You will survive one ride again.

[Eldon]

Anyone here have any experience installing the new Max II axles with the turned down shaft end,different inner bearings,axle shims and snap ring sprockets? There appears to be rather complex combinations of axle installs .

[Model Citizen]

[Eldon]

Thanks for the reply. The bearing numbers should be the same from manufacturer to manufacturer as they are competition for the same applications. I know all the other bearings on my Max are the same number no matter who manufactures them ( SA-206-20 and HC-207-20) but the trouble with the new axle is it doesn't use a locking collar on the inner bearing or a SA-206-17 would work and as they are available I am tempted to just use one of them. The axle... Mudd Ox told me they had never seen an axle splined 1 1/4" clear to the end of the shaft and all that is available is this new style. The snap rings were put into service in the Max II( April 03) about 65 machines after mine was built in early 2003. Mudd Ox gave me a bearing number of UC-206-17 but a diligent forum member cautioned me that they had given me the inner bearing number for a Max IV........different bearing/flange set up than the Max II. I found the Mudd Ox people real nice folk but so far they are struggling to get their feet on the ground regarding parts sourcing. The old reliable serial number of the machine to verify parts required threw me under the bus .

[johnnova]

Eldon the part number is SBLF206-17G for the inner bearings on the newer max's with splined axles I just got mine from the bearing outlet for around 8.00 each, USA made in Memphis,TN so the box says lol!
That particular size bearing is a pain to find I wish they would have used a more standard size.

[Eldon]

Thanks John. I'll try my bearing man tommorrow. He could not get a SB 206 17 G but I will try him on this longer number. He deals possibly/probably exclusively with KML . Maybe there are only a few out there who do make this one. I had a great chat yesterday via phone with a man who used to work for RI and he also was very, very helpful. I appreciate the help from all you folks. There sure is a lot of knowledge and experience on this site. It has been discouraging trying to get all these parts/numbers together but the high side is I'll be an expert on the retro axle install when done.

[Eldon]

I was able to source a SBLF-206-17 G . The significance of the LF in the prefix is that it comes in the solid one piece two hole flange. The bearing is a SB-206-17 G. The bearing man told me the reason that this bearing is harder to get is that the 17 in the number signifying 1 1/16" is a relatively rare shaft size. LOL Lucky Me.

[MaxRules]

The 1-1/16" turned down axle is a far better design as you are not relying on a very weak lock collar to hold your axle in place. The end of that new axle is threaded and you should have a bolt that goes in the end of it. The axle usually requires a few shims between it and the bearing. The bolt in the end of the axle will hold it from moving. Tighten the set screws to keep the bearing turning with the axle, although that is rarely needed since it is tight against the bolt. Much better than the old 62mm lock collar bearings that would often break off the inner bearing race, especially on splined axles. And yes some early splined axle machines were 1-1/4" all the way to the end and used the same lock collar bearing as the round axles.

[Eldon]

Yes Brandon mine built in early 2003 has those splined axles 1 1/4" to the end. It has taken a long time to source all that is necessary to change over to the newest style, I am hopeful it will be the ultimate cure for broken sprocket set screws. HeyDan was kind enough to lend me some phone time and I got from him that this is indeed a good system but possibly overkill for the three bearing axle with bearing cages,yet one more locking collar to have the lock fail on to have axle move. Ever run 22" Argo tires on a Max II yet ?

[Dano1877]

Rear axle slide

I have a 1980 max II upgraded with the Briggs 20hp. Has new outer tub bearings which I didn't install , I bought it with them installed. The axles I believe are the older style/ hollow. I'm having an issue with one of my rear axles. The 2 Allen set screw keep loosening and the axle moves in and causing the rear chain and sprocket to move towards and rub on the frame and the chain to be out of alignment I keep moving it back and re tightening the set screws. But still does this every ride. This I believe is the only axle I'm having issues with. Any suggestions? Thanks. Dan

[ARGOJIM]

If your machine currently has the set screw only bearings , you could install the eccentric locking collar style bearing like came from the factory. You could also install a split ring collar on the inside of the current bearing, or both a locking collar bearing and a split collar which is what many are doing now.
The 2 set screws just don't have enough contact area to hold the axle from moving.

[Dano1877]

why do you suppose they went with this style if the factory bearings were better? don't get it ? usually when they make an upgrade from the factory it supposed to be better isn't it?