Max ll Bearings, Bearings, Bearings

[Outlaw1]

Thanks for the input guys,
Noel, those bearings seem a little pricey. I know you get what you pay for. It would probably take a decade for me to put 150 hrs on my Max.

Jim, my sprockets are welded, not bolted. Everyone as well as RI assures me they are 72mm bearings based on my serial number 135## . I'll check the PN on the flange to make sure.

Hydromike. I think I may try the Chinese bearings. I've actually heard good things about these bearing before as well as their chains. Of course opinions are like a-holes. No more than I will ride it they should last me a long , long time. I doubt if I will be going through mud bogs or anything like that. I also promise to keep the chains up to snuff.

I appreciate all the advice guys. I'll let you know what comes of it.

[jeffery9076]

bearing extensions

Attex UHMW Bearing Support Spacer | eBay

Just wondering if this is what I should use?
Just upgraded by drilling the 4 chain attex frame for max 62mm bearing and flanges for 1 1/4 axle upgrade
I would like to extend the bearing out more towards the hub.
I have Between 3 1/2" and 3 3/4" distance from outer tub and hub
Thinking 2 each axle for total of 3" of extensions
Just wondering if this is what I need
ANY SUGGESTIONS PLEASE

[Noel Woods]

From many years of hard earned experience, whatever you think you will subject a machine to and the amount of time you think you will have it, triple that.

Anytime a sprocket, bearing or chain is needed, it really pays to get the very best you can afford. I can't tell you how many frames I've pulled and then replaced less than all the sprockets or bearings and re-assembled the vehicle only to have to do it again a few months later to replace another nick nack part.

[Outlaw1]

Yeah Noel, been there, done that. Been doing some serious thinking about that since my last post . Probably will go with a better bearing. You really have me thinking about the UHMW bearings, but how are they mounted?. Same as Mike's video with the regular replacement bearings with same flanges? Mike, you wanna chime in on this? Also Noel, which bearing did you buy and how much did you pay for them for your Max ll? Mine is a '97 72mm flanges. I realize they may cost more now. If it's that simple I'll go with the UHMW's

[Noel Woods]

The synthetic bearings mount via carriage bolts. When you get the set they come with the standard cork gaskets. Once mounted and the nuts secured you are pretty much done. I do check the tension of the nuts after a ride. Once in a blue moon one or two will take a snugging up.

Mine are the standard 72mm versions. Its been 3 years since I bought the set and I can't recall the price, but I do know it was about the cost of a mid-grade bearing and less than the cost of Timken/Fafnir bearings.

[Outlaw1]

Hey Noel,
I decided to go with the KML bearings. Not like I'll be going thru mud bogs and all that or putting a crap load of hours on it. I have to admit your bearing suggestion seemed like a good idea. Nowhere near the same price though. I got the bearings and flanges yesterday. They look great. The bearings have a very small nub sitting on the outer race side of the bearing. I suppose that has to be removed for it to fit in the flange. It definitely won't fit with it on. It's very small (maybe 1/16 in. tall and wide. Probably made to fit into a groove on one of their flanges. Would of thought they would all come that way. I also plan on tapping the opposite side of the locking collars and putting better locking screws in there as well as putting a locking clamp over the collar to prevent the screws from backing out. Probably some locktite also. These locking collars don't appear to be the type you tighten/loosen with the hammer/punch trick. They only have the locking screw. I'm sure by the time I'm finished they won't go anywhere. I'll keep you up to date with the progress. Thanks again for the advice.

[msafi65]

The original bearings are HC 207-20- R3. The R3 is regreasable and Tripple sealed. I buy my bearings from the big bearing store. The single seal ones don't hold out water as well. A lot of people including me use strip chalk to seal bearing flanges to the tub insted of the rubber gaskets. It's a product usually available in auto body stores. Replace all the bearings and keep them lubed you will get a lot of years out of them.

[Mike]

Definitely pull the nubs out of the bearings, a pair of diagonal wire cutters works well. The collars will only lock to the bearings once you have an axle in them. They lock against each other. They will not lock together off the axles.

[Outlaw1]

Thanks Guys,
Hopefully my Max will spend very little time in water. Where I play is at 8000 ft in the mountains of the San Luis Valley, Colorado. Mostly dust and dirt and hills. I'll snatch the nubs out for sure Mike. These bearings I have do accept grease and I'll be sure and line them up correctly. Thanks for the heads up on the collars Mike. I was actually wondering about that. You guys are so helpful. I'll jump into it head first this weekend.

[Outlaw1]

Got the front ones done. Stripped a set screw on a collar and had to visit ACE Hardware. Pretty much have the hang of it now thanks to Mike's video and the rest of the guys that chimed in. Now on to the tough ones, the center and rear. Guess I'll go ahead and remove the tranny and adjust it while I'm in there. I'm really looking forward to that (NOT). Oh well, keeps me busy.

[Outlaw1]

Well, got it all put back together with new bearings, chain and tranny fluid, conditioner and adjustment. Runs and drives like a new one. I was surprised how fast it was: I used the KML Chinese bearings and noticed the collars don't twist and lock like the ones I removed. They just use the set screw unless I'm missing something. Oh well, I'm sure they will last a good while. I cinched them down pretty good with thread locker. I'll keep an eye on them for movement. I'm wiring it now for the winch. The wiring with the unit was about 3' too short. It's supposed to snow here in Denver Sunday. YESSSSSS!

[Mike]

I used the KML Chinese bearings and noticed the collars don't twist and lock like the ones I removed. They just use the set screw unless I'm missing something.

You have to make sure you put the collars on the correct way and that you have the bearings turned the correct way as well. It's easy to put the bearings in backwards if you aren't careful.

[Outlaw1]

Yea Mike. The collars actually fit over the bearing on the one side that protrudes outward and absolutely do not fit on the other. I installed them on the side where the collar actually fit over the bearing approx 1/8 inch or so with that side facing outward. The collar is not tapered on the inside so as to allow it to be actually tightened as you show in the video. I attempted several times to no avail. My neighbor also looked at them and also came to the same conclusion that the only way to tighten this collar is with the set screw. The last collar I attempted to install was oversized.Obviously for a larger sized axle. A packaging issue I am sure. I had to use one of the old collars and it tightened up quite well. Anyone out there reading this that found out differently please chime in.

[Outlaw1]

I just got a call back from the Big Bearing Store. I had called them with the question of whether or not the collars should lock down on these bearings. They pull a few off their shelf and assured me the only locking mechanism for those bearings was the set screw. They also said if the set screws did not hold the bearing that they would give me my money back or send me a different design that would lock that way. Guess you can't beat that. I just hate the thought of them not working and having to go thru the hastle again. Time will tell

[Outlaw1]

Geez this thread is getting long. The nice lady from the Big Bearing Store called me back after the first call and told me the collars did lock after all. I went back and tried them all again and lo and behold they locked up as advertised. I really hope it snows Sunday so I can play with this thing after all the headaches. I have driven it a little but it's tough on everything on the concrete.