2007 Max IV needs some TLC

[Hideous 4x4]

Just picked up a 2007 IV with the 27hp Kawasaki motor from the original owner. It came with 26" tires and 21" and factory tracks. I had a Hustler in the mid 70's and it was a ton of fun. I don't think the PO did any maintenance on it other than change the motor oil.
I adjusted the bands on the t-20 and when I put the springs back on I left them with a lot less tension than before, now it's more like the old Hustler, gas and push sticks foward to go. My first question is will it hurt any thing to leave them off or very little tension? The top band adj. bolts when pulled out for reverse stay out and pop back only when you push the sticks forward, is this normal?
2nd Q= What type grease should I use in the axle bearings?
3rd Q= PO said when running the tracks you have to remove the center and front drive chains or it will bind up. Is that right?

Thanks in advance.
Bill

More questions to follow.

[Surfer Dude]

For your first questions. No it will not hurt anything having the springs on or off the sticks. I and many others actually prefer the feel of driving without them on at all.... The only thing that you then need to remember is that you need to constantly be pushing forward to drive forward. If not pushing forward hard enough you actually may be slipping the bands which in turn may cause premature band wear. Doesnt take much pressure to push forward. And like I said I prefer this. When you push forward and pull backwards that popping noise you hear is the u-channels going between the two plungers hitting against the case when the plungers go back in. This is completely normal. although it may be annoying to you at the same time it is normal. Only thing you can do is "pin" the tranny in the center like I and others have done which is well explained in this post. Gives you are far better feel for the transmission also

http://www.6x6world.com/forums/transmissions/27149-popsicle-sticks.html

Per your second question I have read and heard plenty of results and opinions on which grease to use. Most say any marine grade grease or equivalent will do just fine

and per your third and final question...... I have never run tracks but yes to remove the front drive chain that goes from the center axle to the front axle eliminates whats is referred to as chain wind-up. I'm sure others can chime in to farther explain that for you. hope this helps and congrats on your new machine

[msafi65]

I found that running factory rubber tracks it is best to remove the front chains. Takes a lot less power to drive them. Size the tires before installing and try to get the he rears as close to the same size as possible. This makes the vehicle track straight on smooth ground.

[Rusty-Gunn]

I completed the U-channel mods to my T20 and it works very well. Eliminates the clanking. Plungers move smoothly.

[Hideous 4x4]

Thanks for that info.
Surfer, I think I will try it without the springs. I still would push the sticks forward just like I did in the old Hustler 35 years ago!
msafi65, I will have to try that when I put the tracks on. If the max works alright It will stay in AK to get us in and out of our remote cabin,
not sure if the tracks or 26" tires will be a better choice.
I tore the max apart yesterday, so now is the time to do the u-channel mod.
Looks like Dextron III or IV will work in the t-20
I was going to use a dry lube on the chains but maybe a sticky lube would repel water better, what do most of you use?

Thanks Bill

[Hideous 4x4]

[Hideous 4x4]

I got the Max back together and been driving it around the property. I didn't do any mods yet, I wanted to see how it worked stock and see the difference
the mods make, extra work I know but that's the best way to learn a machine right.
Things I have noticed, the frame, body flexes over uneven ground. Is this normal? When I had it apart I looked for frame cracks and found none.
It also creaks and groans a lot when turning and on uneven ground.
I want to do the split shift and the u channel mod.
Another thing I want to do is move the laterals to the left so 2 adults can sit side by side, I have looked through back posts, searched and didn't
find where anybody had done this. Is this a bad mod or just not popular?
I'm going to try and post some pics of what it looked like when I picked it up.
Ok I got the pics to load!

[Surfer Dude]

Hideous,
the transmission takes 4oz short of a full quart of ATF type F and 4oz of friction modifier like TRANS-X or equivalent. The body/frame flex is all normal. you did the right thing by checking for cracks anyways.. The moans/groans/ and creaks are all normal for every machine i've ever been in. Uneven ground is usually the cause like you said....... Unfortunately i can't recall anyone moving the sticks over like your saying in your machine so looks like you may be the first to do this and document for the rest of the world... Congrats on your machine. It looks great.

[Surfer Dude]

My only suggestion is that you turn all of your tires around. The way you have them will go through the mud a bit better but on these machines you want to run them "backwards" so that they swim in the water. Which is what these machines are intended for anyways. Again nice machine

[amphibious drew]

People have done several mods to adjust the sticks. The nicest of which has been on jersey bigfoots machines. I believe he moved the sticks over on his red max IV, and his copperhead springer has a design that actually permits moving the sticks in various locations. I have seen the relocated stick mod done very poorly with adding attachments to the original sticks. I would look a jersey's work and model your ideas after his. Avoid a hack job adjustment at all costs.

[Rusty-Gunn]

A simple mod to the laterals is to add a round extension bar about ten inches long to the tip of the left side lateral, going 90° out. Mine is made of welded together black iron pipe fittings with a ten inch pipe gor a grip.
I now can sit on the left side and control the Max IV. The previous owner Eric installed it on this machine before I bought it.

[Hideous 4x4]

Thanks for all the info! I found the pic of the copperhead and that was kind of what I was thinking of, maybe weld the offset in.
Just trying to get all the parts before I start. That's good to know on the tires.

[Hideous 4x4]

I have the split shift in [pics will follow] and it works great. lots of fun to play with.
I'm going to replace the primary chains with the gold 530 o-ring chain from MFG Supply.
I will measure the other chains when I get them off for stretch and replace as needed.My question is
will the std 530 non o-ring work for the drive wheels. I thought I saw somewhere on the forum that some people
do this to save money.
Once I get all the bugs out of this machine, I will haul it to AK to go to and from the cabin.
It's about 11 miles one way, plus a few miles exploring. We go once year so it will not get used as much as most machines
do. Would I just be throwing my money on the o-ring chain?

Thanks Bill

[Hideous 4x4]

Here's some pics of the split shift, I didn't use any of the old parts just in case I want to go back to the original shift.
Hard to see in the pics but I drilled holes about 3/8" down the levers where the linkage rod hooks up so I could change the
throw of the right and left shift levers. Right now it's about 3 1/2" between forward and reverse and tucked just under the seat when
in reverse.

[tbone9]

Nice job. Looks great.