axle/sprocket bolts

[dgeiman]

I have a Max IV I have recently replaced the entire drive train axles, sprockets bearings etc. My old axles had 7/16" diameter bolts holding the sprockets to the axles the new axles which I got from RR had 3/8" diameter holes and came with grade 5 bolts. The bolts on the front axles sheared off I replaced them with new grade 5, then the bolts on the center axles sheared off, I replaced with grade 5. The rear have not sheared as of now I would think they would have went first. My first thought was that I over tightened them and stressed them, so when I replaced them I backed off a little I also have them double nutted. The reason I did that was because the old blots use to come loose.
THOUGHTS?
One other thing on the way to my treestand there is an exposed tree root I cross could this have caused it? I do not run tracks.
THANKS, Dave

[wedge]

You can try Grade 8 bolts with Nylock nuts.

[dgeiman]

OK THANKS I will give that a try

[liflod]

Make sure there are no bolt threads inside the axle or sprocket tubes. Usually I need to buy 3 or 3 1/2 inch bolts to get the shank long enough so that no threads are inside.

[msafi65]

I have used 7/16" grade 8 for years with nylock nuts. In my experience the 3/8" bolts won't last at all,especially if the axle holes are 7/16. I drill new gear tubes undersize and pass a 7/16" bit through the axle and tube as a unit. If there is no play in the bolts they will last a long time. For stock tubes without any washers welded to the outside I use 3" bolts cut to length to keep threads out of the working points in the axle and tube. I'm surprised the rears didn't go first , they get a lot of load going up hill.

[dgeiman]

THANKS for ideas Guys. On the next chain adjustment (just put it back together) I am going to drill out all 6 to 7/16" and put in new grade 8 bolts. The new stuff came with 3/8" holes in both the sprocket and axles everything fit good when I put it together. I had a thought about longer bolts to keep the threads out of the hole but did not do it. I am running nyloc nuts a lock washer and a second nut the nuts have not loosened up as of yet.

These machines are a pain in the butt and fun to work on at the same time. I have had mine for 4 years and have had it apart a few times my wife just shakes her head. Where I run my machine is mostly flat (Marylands eastern shore) a lot of mud,swamp and marsh some flooded woods. It is timber property so there are a lot of logs, dead trees and such. The trails to my stands are pretty clear for the most part I only take the machine to the stand area to retrieve a deer or take something to repair the stand.
THANKS, Dave

[liflod]

Use a longer shank bolt. If the 3/8 bolts fit tight, there's no reason to drill them larger. AN bolts are closer tolerance than the off the shelf bolts.

[ARGOJIM]

I have used 7/16" grade 8 for years with nylock nuts. In my experience the 3/8" bolts won't last at all,especially if the axle holes are 7/16. I drill new gear tubes undersize and pass a 7/16" bit through the axle and tube as a unit. If there is no play in the bolts they will last a long time. For stock tubes without any washers welded to the outside I use 3" bolts cut to length to keep threads out of the working points in the axle and tube. I'm surprised the rears didn't go first , they get a lot of load going up hill.

If the sprockets were already 7/16 and the axles are 3/8 there's part of the problem, as whipperag recommends along with liflod the longer "body bound" bolts will help. I'd guess you'll have to go 7/16 unless you can get some cup washers to repair the sprocket holes.
If your sprockets and axles are 3/8 then follow liflod and go with the longer bolts.

[dgeiman]

The sprockets and axles are brand new maybe 10 hours on them none of the holes have egged. The axles and sprockets came with 3/8" holes in them. I spoke with the lady at Max parts she did some checking and told me the original factory bolts were 3/8" diameter and said they recommend grade #8 to get them at NAPA. I am going to change them to grade 8 first stay with the 3/8" diameter and get the longer shank if they still break then I will drill them out and use 7/16" diameter grade 8. should I use flat washers on ethier side of the bolt ? What are AN bolts ?
THANKS for all your help.
Dave

[dgeiman]

Well just got back from my week long hunting trip I changed all the bolts to grade 8 with a longer shank as suggested and put it to the test and no problems. THANKS for all your help.
Dave

[Rabbit929]

Good deal. Yeah make sure there is NO wobble between the axle and stub shaft. If there is any, the egging out begins. Pita to fix. Make sure threads extend out from hole, cut off excess if necessary. Nylock nuts work best.

[philipatmaxfour]

axle/sprocket bolts

The sprockets and axles are brand new maybe 10 hours on them none of the holes have egged. The axles and sprockets came with 3/8" holes in them. I spoke with the lady at Max parts she did some checking and told me the original factory bolts were 3/8" diameter and said they recommend grade #8 to get them at NAPA. I am going to change them to grade 8 first stay with the 3/8" diameter and get the longer shank if they still break then I will drill them out and use 7/16" diameter grade 8. should I use flat washers on ethier side of the bolt ? What are AN bolts ?
THANKS for all your help.
Dave

glad to hear that you have solved the problem. did you find out what AN bolts are.?