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TheSilverBuick MAX II Project

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  • #31
    I think I have too much pre-load on the spring. Reading up on them I've read between a 1/4 and 1/3 of a turn is sufficient and I turned mine a full half. The coil spacing made me suspicious. I'm going to pop the snap ring off and go for the 1/4 to 1/3 turn.


    **Edit. I think the spring may be tweaked as I dialed it down to a third and a quarter turn and it didn't look much different than in my earlier picture. I set it to a 1/3 turn pre-load and called it good.
    Last edited by TheSilverBuick; 03-20-2017, 11:07 PM.

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    • #32
      I just bought a 2008 Kawasaki Ninja 600 EFI throttle body set with upper injectors on E-bay for $28. Each of the four throttle bodies are 32mm, so if I can fabricate a pair of intake tubes for two of them that should give more than enough air. The Kawi 600 engines were rated at 100HP to the tire, with 8 injectors so that is technically only 25HP worth of fuel injector with only two injectors in place, but assuming they are not maxed out by design and I have the ability to raise the fuel pressure 50%, I'm hoping they'll be sufficient. Just another piece of the puzzle.

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      • #33
        Tried a couple more times to remove the dowel with no success. I had one shop quote me $80 to extract it and install a new one due to their "minimum" charge requirement. I haven't called any other shop yet. However I did pull the trigger and finally pull 99% of my tools out of storage. I've got to re-stock the drawers with the tools in the buckets, but I've since moved the box/tools to the back wall, set up a space to make a work bench, and with these things on hand I should at worse case be able to drill out the old dowel if I can't yank it out. My next try will involve threading a nut onto the remaining portion of the dowel, give it a small weld tacking, weld a bolt upside down to that and with a socket, another nut and heat see if I can pull the dowel out.

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        • #34
          Silverbuick just a little tip regarding thermal expansion -- use some heat to assist your task. The idea is to get the hole hotter than the pin (so the hole expands and becomes bigger than the pin). When I do something like this, I heat the workpiece and then add penetrating oil to cool the part i want to remove. Don't spray penetrating oil directly into a flame or you'll have a fire on your hands, and the heat pluls oil will create quite a bit of smoke, but the penetrating oil will cool/shrink the pin and hopefully it will come on out.

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          • #35


            I tried heating the body with a butane mini-torch, with vice-grips on the dowel to both support and help heat-sink it, and used a candle wax on it, more as a penetrant (think rusty bolt), but can certainly use brake clean or some evaporant on the dowel to help chill it. I have a set of proper propane and MAP gas torches in the tool box for some real heat. I have a laser temp gun in there too to read if I'm actually getting a decent temperature delta.

            I also have a set of good drill bits, a drill press, proper bit starting punches, etc and can likely grind it flat'ish, dimple it and drill.

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            • #36
              Well get that old raggedy car out of the way so you will have some room to work! (good looking car, by the way)

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              • #37
                My economy car? =P I was/am halfway through a turbo install when I moved. Now that my tools are at the house I hope to get back to it once the Max is going.



                You could say I "Max"imized my space =P That back wall has been cleared out and my tool box is there now.

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                • #38
                  I thought my garage is only one that was crowed LOL. Good luck with your project!

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                  • #39
                    I've had some pins that I could not cook out. I did find this trick online with heating the piece and melting candle wax in to lubricate. Worked on a few.
                    sigpic

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                    • #40
                      Originally posted by dgeiman View Post
                      I thought my garage is only one that was crowed LOL. Good luck with your project!
                      I had a nice and big 65'x65' barn with some concrete in it before and career opportunities moved me across the state to a much nicer house but a significantly smaller work area! I have a decent backyard and waiting to get an RV gate installed so I can get some sheds out back to clear out more of the garage. Almost all the stuff on the right wall needs to go to recycling or landfill. It's just boxes full of packing paper, a bed set that was left in the house when we moved in and the old dishwasher that I may keep for a parts washer.

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                      • #41
                        Finally got my tools packed up and got back to this. With some MAP gas and getting the shifter glowing red hot, as advised here, with vise grips holding the pin and using a punch and hammer to tap the body the pin came out. While it was still hot I tapped a new pin in its place. I'm not sure if it's too long or not, but I'll start with where it's at now and if it doesn't seat I'll grind it down little by little. I may pull the other side to A) check it's condition, and B) compare the length sticking out.

                        I made the mistake of seeing about "polishing" it up with a red scotchbrite pad while it was still cooking hot and kind of smeared it. So I'll wait a day or two and try it again.




                        Also the motorcycle throttlebodies showed up as well. For a bit I thought I was going to need to make an electronic throttle controller (Drive-by-wire) set up, but it's still fully manual. I'm not entirely sure what the big motor in the middle does other than act like an electronic choke. I think both shafts are two pieces and I might be able to split it into pairs, and be able to run just two of them.


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                        • #42
                          Well the transmission has to come out. I cut down the dowel, beveled the end a bit and installed it and it felt good and solid when I installed it and worked it between forward and reverse, so buttoned everything back together and started it up and had reverse on the left side for all of a 1/2 second. Felt like it bit then jumped out of gear. I pulled the diamond shifter out and peered down the hole and there was a huge chunk of the shifter collar missing. I pushed the MAX back into place in the garage and went to take a picture but it spun over and now looks "perfect" through the hole. So I spent about 15 minutes beginning the removal process of transmission, should have it out with another 15-20 minutes worth of time.

                          Looks like I'll be in need of a shifter collar like this, and who knows at this point what else I may find. Is Rich's Relics the only place to get one? *edit* I see Max6x6.com has new ones for $161. Looks like there are two kinds so I need to find out what tooth count mine has. May still look for a good used one.


                          Here is a picture of the shortened dowel and the one from the right side that is good shape.


                          **Edit**
                          Found this in one of Dirtdobber's threads, I'm guessing mine looks about the same. Excessive force trying to shift it into gear? I know I haven't forced it. The few times I've had it running I've worked on the shifting and rocking the machine if needed to get full engagement. I've read enough threads on here about that!
                          Last edited by TheSilverBuick; 04-10-2017, 11:09 AM.

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                          • #43
                            Pulled the transmission out and apart tonight. The left shift collar is toast, both worn and broken, and there was one band that was twisted up and had some friction material flake off when I tried to straighten it. Otherwise everything else looks pretty good. So I'm in it for a shift collar and probably one band.

                            THANKS to the "How to article" on here!

                            The drums look to be in decent shape. The one on the right of the photo is actually the left drum.


                            The right side bands.


                            The left bands look good except the bent part at the bottom of the photo. All the bushings in the transmission look good.


                            Despite wrapping the friction material and gently using a pair of crescent wrenches to keep from pinching it while twisting, it still flaked.


                            The shift collars. Again the one on the right is actually the left side. So the right shift collar looks good, the left is worned down as well as broken.


                            The broken collar and the piece was just sitting there.


                            Just a couple pictures of one of the drums.




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                            • #44
                              You are into it now! When I got my machine I took it for a ride in the swamp and got stuck got a little to aggressive on the sticks and broke a band in the trans. Got my buddy to to tow me out got home pulled out the trans and thought its already broke what the hell so I tore it apart it was amazing how simple the the T-20 transmission is to work on. Good Luck! keep us posted.

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                              • #45
                                I see now why it was an 18-tooth collar with half the teeth ground off, it seems the carrier plate is set up for 18-teeth! I was just out there looking at it, not intending on doing anything an that caught my eye. So I'll be looking for a carrier plate. Richards Relics lists them for $20.



                                Fun fun!

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