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Guy goes into a garage to grease bearings.....

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  • Guy goes into a garage to grease bearings.....

    Ends up coming out $700.00 in the hole.

    No grease fittings on the inner bearing plates. OK, pull axles.
    Step one, unstick bearings from axles.
    IMG_0210.jpg
    Rear axles are splined and had grease fittings, so only need to do 4.
    First problem. Bearing retainers are half installed right handed lock, other half are set left handed lock and no, not different left and right. Set screws were packed with anti seize, thank you Rod.
    Second problem, no anti seize under bearings, Thank you Rod.
    Get out the porta power and apply 4 tons. No budge. Get out slide hammer and wack it with 4 tons of pressure on it. No budge.
    Never under estimate the power of liquid wrench. Spray them and let them sit over night. Couple of wacks and they move. (see pic of liquid wrench how it creeps under rust).
    No grease on bearings, ever means no bearings. Order new bearings, and plates WITH grease fittings.
    IMG_0211.jpg
    IMG_0214.jpg

    Now I see I have two different sizes of bolts holding sprockets to axles, both loose. Make some sprocket repair bungs. Notice while matching up repair bungs that sprockets look funny. See pic. order sprockets.

    IMG_0213.jpg

    Inspect axles and notice flange end. UGH! Order new axles.

    IMG_0215.jpg

    The moral of the story? Never go out to the garage to grease your bearings unless you are prepared for the good, the bad and the ugly.

    While being pissed off I came up with a design for portal boxes. Look out @JohnBoyVA.
    Last edited by mfenmor; 08-09-2020, 05:47 PM.

  • #2
    Well when I got into this hobby I really knew nothing about these ATVs. Had an issue I noticed and decided to change bearings but ended up replacing bearings and sprockets that had to be cut off the axles. Once done with that fight it was time to start looking at other areas of maintenance neglect. Chains, brakes clutches and so forth. I just finally went through the brakes and wow the neglect. The good news is the process taught me how simple these machines are, how rugged these machines are, how costly and tedious these machines can be but best of all how to fix and maintain them and piece of mind it is in the correct condition.

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    • #3
      The sickness has started

      IMG_0217.jpg
      So, I figured I have the four hardest axles removed, why not go all in. The rears are splined and came out like a dream.
      Glad I decided to pull frame as I found numerous cracks which I will repair. I also will add supports while it's out in anticipation of portal boxes.
      I'll add more pix of the repairs as I do them. Frame went out to the blaster today.
      I'l paint it white so it's not so hard to see with all the darkness down in the tub.

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      • #4
        I like your white frame idea. As long as your at it I highly recommend the bearings with set screws instead of the problematic lock collars. Lock collars are for a non reversing light duty application.
        What it lacks in ground clearance it makes up for with traction.

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        • #5
          I probably would if I wasn't so darn cheep.
          I may use temp locktight on them. It'll keep out the moisture and still be able to push off with pressure even without heating.
          The lock collars are terrible for keeping the axle from moving in and out of the bearings. They are meant only to keep the axles from spinning within the race.
          I use split collars on both sides of the outer bearings to keep the axles from moving.
          While I have them out I'll drill and tap the ends and use a washer on the inside saving one split collar.
          Last edited by Moderator Bob; 08-14-2020, 11:46 PM. Reason: Language

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          • #6
            Portals, with more chains! so many chains haha

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            • #7
              i use the split collars on both sides of my bearings and sprockets . and if a non splined sprocket with a bolt thru the axle has wallowed..besides drill the hole a little bigger and putting in a new bolt , clamp a split collar next to the sprocket and weld one half of it to the sprocket . it will help carry pressure on the sprocket . johnboy va. looking forward to seeing progress on your project .

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              • #8
                Originally posted by john swenson View Post
                clamp a split collar next to the sprocket and weld one half of it to the sprocket . it will help carry pressure on the sprocket . johnboy va. looking forward to seeing progress on your project .
                Great idea JB. I'm gonna do that.
                I spoke to the blaster today and he'll have the frame done Monday.
                I'm gonna attempt to "weld" a deep chain groove in the tub where I assume a chain broke and wrapped around the drive sprocket. it's over the rear skid plate so I have some backing.

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by allwheeldrive View Post
                  Portals, with more chains! so many chains haha
                  Chains? Where we'er going, we don't need any chains.

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by mfenmor View Post
                    Chains? Where we'er going, we don't need any chains.
                    We'll now I'm interested. Lets just hope where your going also doesn't involve $$$$$$$$$ money either lol.
                    Those high lifter gear portals are nice but at their cost I could never justify them.

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by allwheeldrive View Post
                      We'll now I'm interested. Lets just hope where your going also doesn't involve $$$$$$$$$ money either lol.
                      Those high lifter gear portals are nice but at their cost I could never justify them.
                      Oh, I'm a cheap guy. I really hate buying stuff. If I don't have it lying around, or can trade with someone, I build it myself. Yes, I can make gears, but i'll probably find some somewhere.
                      Stay tuned.
                      Last edited by Moderator Bob; 08-14-2020, 11:52 PM. Reason: Language

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                      • #12
                        do you need chain? what size ? j.b.

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by john swenson View Post
                          do you need chain? what size ? j.b.
                          Hey J.B.
                          So as I say I'm a cheap, there are just some things you can't cheap out on, and I think one of those things is chain. About 7 years ago I got a really good deal on HKK 50H chain made in Japan. Mcmaster-carr sells this brand for $12.00/ft. I got 100 ft. for $300.00. Put a set on my Max IV and plow snow in the winter and pull logs in the summer, and sometimes have fun with it. No stretch out of the ordinary with only slight idler sprocket adjustment. I couldn't be happier with it. It's rated with one of the highest working load limits.
                          So thanks for your offer, but I don't need any chain......yet.

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                          • #14
                            your welcome .. i don't use # 50 anymore , and i have part of a role i'll pass on to someone in need . not sure how many feet but i can measure . it's new chain , just dirty .. j.b.

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                            • #15
                              Originally posted by john swenson View Post
                              your welcome .. i don't use # 50 anymore , and i have part of a role i'll pass on to someone in need . not sure how many feet but i can measure . it's new chain , just dirty .. j.b.
                              If noone else needs it I'd be willing to buy it from you Johnboy, I'm using 530 on mine but just using 50 on my wife's, sort of an experiment to see how much better 530 is and partly because my wife won't be very hard on hers.
                              DanW

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