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  • Max II Clutch Sticking

    Hi,
    I have a problem periodically with my clutch in my 2003 Max II (23 hp Kohler). By times when I release the throttle the clutch remains engaged even though the engine is at an idle. The machine creeps forward and sometimes will stall. If I pull the sticks back and rev it a couple of times sometimes it will release. Also sometimes when the clutch is sticking and when I shut off you will hear it make a loud clunking sound as it releases. Upon restart after that clunking sound it is released. Everything looks good in there and revving it it appears to be working properly.

    The belt I am using is a Gates I believe P/N 6314 and a cross for that is a Dayco HP3003. I am thinking perhaps the belt is sticking down in the clutch or not sliding to the top of the split pulley on the transmission input. Also when checking the clutch I saw very minor corrosion on the front pulley which I sanded with 200 grit emery cloth. I am wondering if closer to the shaft is corrosion causing the belt to stick.

    Any troubleshooting suggestions out there?

  • #2
    Remove the clutch and the outer cover. It probably has a broken spring or roller arm. Parts available possibly from Quality Drive Systems. I can’t locate the number right now.

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    • #3
      In your opinion would this be the primary (engine) or secondary (transmission ) assembly? I have a fair amount of some types of wrenching experience but clutches, transmissions baffle me. What manufacture clutch would be in a 2003 Max II with a 23 hp Kohler engine? Thanks.

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      • #4
        Trying to rationalize how the clutch works it would seem that in order for the machine to creep at an idle (again only by times) that the primary (engine) would have to be the one sticking. Would this sound reasonable?

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        • #5
          Yes engine clutch. Make is comet /Salisbury and there are manuals posted somewhere on this site.

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          • #6
            A manual for your Salsbury variable speed torque converter that details the different clutches along with assembly procedures.


            Max 6x6 Amphibious ATVs from Recreatives Industries. This page contains operators manuals, parts lists and service bulletins on Max II and Max IV UTVs

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            • #7
              Thanks Gents, terrific information.

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              • #8
                Well I finally got the courage to tackle my sticking clutch. I took the belt off and started it up. I found with very little revving it closed completely and stayed closed. I believe by some of the sounds I have been hearing that the belt in place actually helped to spring open when shut off as I could hear a sound like a bear trap slamming shut. When it was stuck open I could see inside and keeping my fingers back I sprayed it down good with deep creep. If I take a bar with relatively little effort it will snap back in place with a good snapping sound. It looked clean enough inside and no parts falling out. When running as said with a slight rev it closes completely and stays closed. When I rev the engine up I can see the centrifical force snaps some fingers out to grab the drum as I suspect it is supposed to. To get the clutch off I see I have to pull the engine or at the least unbolt and set it over far enough to the right though I don't know if that will allow a puller if needed. I can't seem to find any information on this clutch system and I have searched this forum fairly thoroughly. Any ideas on what I am up against machine is an 03 with around 600 hours.

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                • #9
                  Hey EldonC,
                  First, never run the drive clutch without a belt on it as it will damage the outer case where the fingers ride, and then it gets stuck closed.
                  as for your creeping at idle, sounds as though the belt might be a bit too tight. move the engine touch closer to the driven clutch.
                  There are "specs" for the belt tightness, but its really a feel thing.
                  to tight and belt squeals and machine creeps, too loose and not top end speed or low end torque.
                  use a dry graphite spray to lube the inside of the clutch, where the fingers are, use also for the driven. keep the spray off the belt faces of the clutches.

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                  • #10
                    Thanks Mike, I appreciate your advice. I was not aware you should not run it without a belt. I did about three quick stop/starts so I hope I didn't damage it. It did indeed stick closed but with a gentle pry it snapped open. I will install a new belt and try it again. I used to set the belt by spec of I think 1 1/4 inch deflection but then got so I did it by feel. It has been sticking well engaged at an idle, trying to overspeed the machine more than the engine had fuel at an idle for and when shutting down I can hear quite a trap like snap which I believe is when it snaps open. Then other times it clears. I can't even tell what the make and model of the clutch is. My machine is a 2003 Max II with a 23 hp Kohler.

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                    • #11
                      It could be the finger rollers are wore out. There are rebuild kits for these.
                      Its a Comet 780. Plenty on Ebay. About $125
                      Fits:This is a Driver (engine) clutch takes a 1 3/16 -1 1/4" wide belt. 302405, 302424 This new clutch can be used to replace smaller Comet Dusters, 94C and other Salsbury 500 . 770 series clutchs. Set up for up to 22 hp 4 cycle engines. This new clutch is heavy duty, it weighs around 6lbs lbs, not a small light clutch. It is 4 7/8" side to side along crankshaft and overall is 7 1/4" tall (diameter). This new clutch would be good on Briggs Stratton Vanguards, Kohler Commands, Robin, Honda, Salsbury, CVTech, CVTech Powerbloc IBC and most other 4 cycle engines with crankshafts size listed above. Excellent for Lifted Golf cart, ATV, Go Kart, Pulling tractor, 4 cycle conversions, Custom Go Cart Cushman Scooters,.

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                      • #12
                        Your information is greatly appreciated Mike. How did you identify it as a Comet 780? I have been looking at various configurations and was hovering on the possibility of it being a 910. I couldn't find any ID marks on it but it is near impossible to get a good look at as the muffler is over top of it. It has 6 vent holes in it and other than the hub bolt it appears to have 3 bolts holding the dish like cover on it. The machine's 600 hours has been relatively light usage though 200 of those hours, maybe 300 would be rubber track usage in snow which is tasking. I am going to install a new belt on it and adjust slack to spec and will use some dry graphite if I can find any. Can I spray that in the vent holes when stationary? I give it a good spray of Deep Creep (penetrating type stuff and let it drip dry.). I am familiar with a fair amount of wrenching but centrifigal clutches are out of my league. So is a T20 for sure as well.

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                        • #13
                          Mike, I have been looking at clutch illustrations and aftermarket vendors, it does indeed appear to be a 780 (1" shaft, 1/4" keyway). I see they are available and pretty reasonable. With Max these days, finding the part is the victory.

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