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I am looking for opinions regarding my two rear axle bolts. They each broke once each on my last two rides. I have had this problem before on the rear axles. I replaced the axles and bearings on the rear and all the chains all the way around. I had cup washers for Richards Relics welded on the sprocket sleeves and am now running a longer bolt as well as having new axels. It was working well until now. Just get in the muck and pow! pow! they break.Are there certain replacement bolts to avoid? What if I used some kind of pin instead, like as on a trailer hitch?
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I ride a brown '96 Max 4 (skid plate, roll cage, 26" Rawhides, 20hp, custom winch and tow plates) with a 2K front winch and a 4K come-along for back up. I pack 20'tow-strap, 2 chains and 2 hooks,a jeep jack, and a big block of PT wood. Also an axe and chainsaw. And mechanic tools. I have a tote with a tarp and bungees. Spare parts. Two rifles.
Hey, arent I supposed to be able to have three passengers?
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I was told to only use bolts that are only threaded below the axle so the part of the bolt that passes through the axle is non-threaded. What kind of bolts are breaking in your machine? -
good call Cole, here are a few threads on body bound bolts: http://www.6x6world.com/forums/gener...ound-bolt.html
i use grade 8 and so far haven't had an issue (knock on wood)Last edited by racerone3; 06-06-2009, 07:51 AM.A well regulated Militia, being necessary to the security of a free State, the right of the people to keep and bear Arms, shall not be infringed.Comment
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You might try a shoulder bolt that is long enough for the shoulder to pass all the way through the sleeve. As Evil said the threaded area of the bolt is weaker than the shoulder area. I think that a grade 5 is recommended for these because they have a greater shear strength than a grade 8 which has a stronger tensil strength. The threaded part can be trimmed if it protrudes too far through the axle, you only need enough to get a couple threads past full nut.DESTRUCTION is just a couple of vowels down the street from DISTRACTIONComment
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yeah, the bolts that are shearing off are long enough to not ride on thread so I got that one out of the way. Trial and error
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Im not sure of the bolt grade, but the bolts come from the bin at NAPA (crAPA). I have broke other types of bolts on the same two axels before, also.
I am trying to avoid the holes in my axels getting wallowed out with stress, too, so now this thing has me spooked to ride again.I ride a brown '96 Max 4 (skid plate, roll cage, 26" Rawhides, 20hp, custom winch and tow plates) with a 2K front winch and a 4K come-along for back up. I pack 20'tow-strap, 2 chains and 2 hooks,a jeep jack, and a big block of PT wood. Also an axe and chainsaw. And mechanic tools. I have a tote with a tarp and bungees. Spare parts. Two rifles. Hey, arent I supposed to be able to have three passengers?Comment
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Have you tried stainless bolts.sigpicComment
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crAPA
Now that's funny!!
DESTRUCTION is just a couple of vowels down the street from DISTRACTIONComment
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When you say they break when you get in the muck, does this mean that you are gassin' on it and they break? If so, it could be that the tires are spinning and suddenly catch traction and this pops them. Irresistable force meets immoveable object ...DESTRUCTION is just a couple of vowels down the street from DISTRACTIONComment
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NAPA No Auto Patrs AvalibleOriginally posted by brushcutter View PostcrAPA Now that's funny!!Kevin Hough
TREBMASTER
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.OOO
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Originally posted by trebmaster View Post I bet if they had seen this one they would have called it something other than NAPA!!! Like we call O'Reilly's Oh Really's 'cause when you drive 20 miles to return a part you JUST got home with and walk up to the person you JUST bought it from and say "I just bought this here and it's tha wrong part" what do they always seem to say.... Oh Really...
DESTRUCTION is just a couple of vowels down the street from DISTRACTIONComment
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I Talked to a friend of mine who is a machinist at Jeep about various types of bolts to use on my maxII. When I suggested to him that I was thinking about using grade 8 he said that that would not be a good choice. According to him a grade 8 bolt has excellent torque strength for verticle load. But because it is so hard the properties that make it strong in torque force make it weaker for shearing loads because it is more brittle. He said that a grade 5 would be a much better choice because of the bending ability and less likely to shear under a load. he must know what he is talking about because I replaced all my axle bolts 3 years ago and have not broken a single one and I use my max not only for rideing but logging. I have put some severe pulling force on this machine with no problems.Bob
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[quote=brushcutter;41675]You might try a shoulder bolt that is long enough for the shoulder to pass all the way through the sleeve. As Evil said the threaded area of the bolt is weaker than the shoulder area. I think that a grade 5 is recommended for these because they have a greater shear strength than a grade 8 which has a stronger tensil strength. The threaded part can be trimmed if it protrudes too far through the axle, you only need enough to get a couple threads past full nut.[/quote.
1999 max 2 18 b&s 22 tires custom . new max iv 23 k 26 i/n tires brown . ht cable promark winch . new toy 1972 attex st400 400ccjlo and she will be bad . ( the frog )
if it don't float with out you getting wet . don't bring it ! 
R.I.P sage rogers 4 11 09 . you can't fix stuped !!!!! raceone 3 .)Comment
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Right, according to the astm people there is no "published" schedule on shear strength but it is normally accepted that shear strength is 60% of tensile strength.Originally posted by REELLS View Post
But if this is the case, then why does the grade 5 hold better under a shearing force than a grade 8? As you said the 8 is more brittle than the 5
it don't make sense but it's true.
DESTRUCTION is just a couple of vowels down the street from DISTRACTIONComment
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broken bolts
Are chains at correct tension. I think the shock of taking up slack leads to high stress on everything.Comment
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turvuren, I think the chains are within norm, but I will give them once over to make sure. The ones that need adjustment most often are the rear, the problem area. I just replaced them and have tightened them once since the install after first hour or so of operation. Anyhow, I will check them out.Are chains at correct tension. I think the shock of taking up slack leads to high stress on everything.
Have you tried stainless bolts.grade 5 would be a much better choice because of the bending ability and less likely to shear under a load
I think these NAPA bolts are stainless, at least on the outside. The center is some sort of chocolate chewy nougat.
I will try to find stainless grade "5" 3/8" inch bolts with 3 1/2 inch shoulders and adjust the chains to within 1/2" of deflection.
Its only the back two bolts I ever have trouble with.
Last edited by AKTrail; 06-07-2009, 03:21 PM.I ride a brown '96 Max 4 (skid plate, roll cage, 26" Rawhides, 20hp, custom winch and tow plates) with a 2K front winch and a 4K come-along for back up. I pack 20'tow-strap, 2 chains and 2 hooks,a jeep jack, and a big block of PT wood. Also an axe and chainsaw. And mechanic tools. I have a tote with a tarp and bungees. Spare parts. Two rifles. Hey, arent I supposed to be able to have three passengers?Comment
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